Leather Cleaner Question
- Thread starter MELODY7
- Start date
judyb
New member
Leather should be cleaned with water based foam detergent cleaners and then followed with a leather protector (not a conditioner).
Cleaners should not contain any waxes or oils as these can remain on the surface and attract more dirt and oils which will eventually damage the finish.
The old feeding and conditioning processes are completely outdated on modern leathers and should not be used as they simply do not do anything for the leather and can do long term damage.
New leather should be protected and then maintained with water based cleaners or maintenance products. The key is to keep leather clean and prevent any build up of dirt or oils.
Hope this helps
Judy
Cleaners should not contain any waxes or oils as these can remain on the surface and attract more dirt and oils which will eventually damage the finish.
The old feeding and conditioning processes are completely outdated on modern leathers and should not be used as they simply do not do anything for the leather and can do long term damage.
New leather should be protected and then maintained with water based cleaners or maintenance products. The key is to keep leather clean and prevent any build up of dirt or oils.
Hope this helps
Judy
salty
Active member
If it is new clean you should just condition with a water based product. Remember that the driver seat is used more, and that causes more wear and conditioner wear off, so apply more often to it.
imported_DieselMDX
New member
i use z9 once evry 60 days or so
judyb
New member
Most 'conditioners' do not protect and contain oils and/or waxes so we would not recommend their use.
judyb
New member
You need to use a water based foam leather cleaner. Household soaps tend to have too much salt content to be safe to use on leather as this can sometimes break down the finish. It is always best to use products that have been specifically tested for leather use and also products that have technical back up in case you have any problems.
A leather protector acts like a scotchgard. It is fluoro chemical product that leaves a breathable residue on the surface of leather that you cannot feel or see. This will help to inhibit dirt and oils from being absorbed into the leather finish and so help prevent cracking and finish breakdown. The protector also contain UV protectors and will make your leather easier to clean. It will also inhibit dye transfer on light coloured leathers.
A word of caution, some manufacturers are renaming thier conditioners, protectors because of recent publicity about the need for protection over conditioning without changing the product. If this is the case then there will be no protective value in the product.
The effectiveness of protectors can be tested and a supplier should be able to provide samples of leather with proof of how it works.
Leather should not be sealed against water. Water is good for leather which is why cleaners and protectors should be water based. These rehydrate the leather and keep it supple.
The oils in leather which are put back during the retanning process cannot go anywhere (except in very unusual circumstances - spewing) and so are never removed from the leather by cleaning. Any claims about the need for products to replace these oils are false and products containing oils should not be used.
The leather in cars is generally fully corrected and pigmented which means that it is the finish you are cleaning. There is little chance of any oils being absorbed by the leather at all which means that they will only sit on the surface and attract more dirt.
Cleaning should be quick and straightforward and the products should do the work. Anything which needs bufffing, polishing, heating, scrubbing or leaving on for hours is just nonsense as far as leather cleaning is concerned.
Hope this helps
A leather protector acts like a scotchgard. It is fluoro chemical product that leaves a breathable residue on the surface of leather that you cannot feel or see. This will help to inhibit dirt and oils from being absorbed into the leather finish and so help prevent cracking and finish breakdown. The protector also contain UV protectors and will make your leather easier to clean. It will also inhibit dye transfer on light coloured leathers.
A word of caution, some manufacturers are renaming thier conditioners, protectors because of recent publicity about the need for protection over conditioning without changing the product. If this is the case then there will be no protective value in the product.
The effectiveness of protectors can be tested and a supplier should be able to provide samples of leather with proof of how it works.
Leather should not be sealed against water. Water is good for leather which is why cleaners and protectors should be water based. These rehydrate the leather and keep it supple.
The oils in leather which are put back during the retanning process cannot go anywhere (except in very unusual circumstances - spewing) and so are never removed from the leather by cleaning. Any claims about the need for products to replace these oils are false and products containing oils should not be used.
The leather in cars is generally fully corrected and pigmented which means that it is the finish you are cleaning. There is little chance of any oils being absorbed by the leather at all which means that they will only sit on the surface and attract more dirt.
Cleaning should be quick and straightforward and the products should do the work. Anything which needs bufffing, polishing, heating, scrubbing or leaving on for hours is just nonsense as far as leather cleaning is concerned.
Hope this helps
Greg Nichols
New member
So in your opinion Leatherique is useless as a protector and cleaner combo?
Where do you get your info you are sharing? A website? Your company?
Cheers,
GREG
Where do you get your info you are sharing? A website? Your company?
Cheers,
GREG
judyb
New member
We are leather consultants to the furniture and cleaning industries and have been studying and working with leather for over 20 years.
We run training courses for leather technicians, cleaners, manufacturers, retailers, detailers, aircraft cleaners and anyone else involved in leather cleaning, restoration or repair. We also run a full time workshop.
We constantly test products of all types to find out results and why problems are happening and resolve repair and restoration problems.
We have a network of technicians throughout the UK who have done our training (some very specialist) and give technical feedback on a daily basis.
We run training courses for leather technicians, cleaners, manufacturers, retailers, detailers, aircraft cleaners and anyone else involved in leather cleaning, restoration or repair. We also run a full time workshop.
We constantly test products of all types to find out results and why problems are happening and resolve repair and restoration problems.
We have a network of technicians throughout the UK who have done our training (some very specialist) and give technical feedback on a daily basis.
Statman
Go Buffs!
Z9 and Z10 will work great...I may not be a leather consultant, but I've had leather in my cars for more than 20 years...Now for areas that get extreme sun and for certain leathers (e.g., Porsche dashes) I use Aero 303.
baseballlover1
New member
The zaino linup is good, but there are so many other good contenders out there. If you want the BEST results and dont have a problem with getting your hands dirty (quite literally) go with leatherique. I too am no leather consultant but i have dont some "testing" of my own and leatherique works well! Search 'leatherique system' and you will find a write up by 'TH001'. it should help you.
But if you are just looking for a touchup leather cleaner/conditioner combo, zaino will work well!
But if you are just looking for a touchup leather cleaner/conditioner combo, zaino will work well!
judyb
New member
Leather Protect followed by Lazy Leather for maintenance
baseballlover1
New member
suki22 said:
Nope, however it can be. In the write up i spoke about todd says that it is a mild cleaner however can be used as a strong cleaner if left on long enough in a hot area. If you have any questions about it, look in the write up... it is very(!) useful!
Bunky
Detailing Gnosis
Most leather conditioners for automobile market do not contain a significant amount of oils despite their labeling. None have solvents which is a scare tactic. Every water based conditioner or protector seems to have some oils to help in distribution of the product although in small amounts.
The majority of the leather in cars is top coated so this is why equestrian products should not be used. All car leather makers recommend a mild soap to clean. You can use diluted woolite or a automotive leather cleaner (about the same thing for convenience). You do not need to apply much protectant or conditioner (whatever the company calls it). If the seat feels greasy after applying a conditioner, you probably applied too much.
The majority of the leather in cars is top coated so this is why equestrian products should not be used. All car leather makers recommend a mild soap to clean. You can use diluted woolite or a automotive leather cleaner (about the same thing for convenience). You do not need to apply much protectant or conditioner (whatever the company calls it). If the seat feels greasy after applying a conditioner, you probably applied too much.
Here is a thread that you can reference.
http://autopia.org/forum/car-detailing/100560-woolite-leather.html
For new leather, I personally use a 10:1 dilution of woolite and water. Scottwax found this information in a Lexus owners manual some time back. The Lexus manual however states that you should use a 20:1 ratio. I find the 10:1 to work well for me though. I have never tried the 20:1 ratio.
Then use a leather protectant of your choice.
http://autopia.org/forum/car-detailing/100560-woolite-leather.html
For new leather, I personally use a 10:1 dilution of woolite and water. Scottwax found this information in a Lexus owners manual some time back. The Lexus manual however states that you should use a 20:1 ratio. I find the 10:1 to work well for me though. I have never tried the 20:1 ratio.
Then use a leather protectant of your choice.