Learning to use a rotary.

Learning to use a rotary.

  • Easy jump right in!

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Not easy, go get a scrap panel.

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    0
I just tried using a rotary for the 3rd time today. I had succes with it on the hood of my test car ( 96 Malibu) about a month ago but now I can't do anything to the rest of the car. I used it at 1500 rpm's with DACP but no success at all. DACP kept gumming up on the paint and it was a bear to remove it. I don't know what it is but I dont think I will be using DACP for a long time. I'm going to get some Optimum polish in hopes of having better practice and results with a rotary but as for now using a rotary is not easy, go get a scrap panel.
 
I learned how to use a rotary to cut and polish a few years ago (b4 there was a PC) on a car that I had just painted. Didn't burn that paint or burn through it.



I say use common sense and jump right in. You'll piss yourself off the first few times out (splatter, dusting the polish, and creating more marring than you remove) but once you get the hang of it you'll love it.
 
MorBid said:
I learned how to use a rotary to cut and polish a few years ago (b4 there was a PC) on a car that I had just painted. Didn't burn that paint or burn through it.



I say use common sense and jump right in. You'll piss yourself off the first few times out (splatter, dusting the polish, and creating more marring than you remove) but once you get the hang of it you'll love it.



Cannot agree with you more. Although i do not beleive that it is easy to use a rotary. I started with a PC and found that i did not have the patience that i think it takes to do proper defect correction.



Using a rotary has allowed me defect correction. I used the Autopian standard of using the least aggressive polish to start. Also using the lowest setting on the rotary until completely comfortable with ts use and function. The use of common sense is a practice that will never fail when detailng. IMHO!
 
cwcad:



I'm with you on the PC/patience note. I think it's easier to go from a PC to a Rotary than the other way around.
 
once you learn how to polish on a rotary, i dont see why you would go to a PC. my PC has not gotten used once since i became proficient with my rotary.



Vernon
 
It was sort of a pride thing, I hate buying stuff and not getting use out of it. I use it mostly now for LSP's and carpet cleaning.
 
series1 said:
... I used it at 1500 rpm's with DACP but no success at all. DACP kept gumming up on the paint and it was a bear to remove it. I don't know what it is but I dont think I will be using DACP for a long time....
Try using #80 Speed Glaze for practicing. It’s much more forgiving than #83 DACP. It’s easier to work, has a longer working time and is less aggressive so you’re less likely to make an unrecoverable mistake.





PC.
 
I voted "jump right in", but I think it pays to have a scrap panel too. It's good to be able to practice stuff on something that doesn't matter and to *intentionally* do things like burn paint just so you gain experience.



I hadn't used a rotary in over 20 years, but I took the Makita out of the box and immediately used it on my S8- no problems. But I was *very* careful and I used products I was already familiar with. I took my time and never let myself get tired/distracted; this took a fair amount of self discipline.



As long as you a) know the vehicle (how thick/thin *is* that paint?), b) know the products, c) have realistic expectations (avoid the "just a little more..." temptation), and d) *THINK* (never let your attention wander for even a second), well, you should be fine. But [stuff] really does happen, more often to some people than to others ;)
 
the other pc said:
Try using #80 Speed Glaze for practicing. It’s much more forgiving than #83 DACP. It’s easier to work, has a longer working time and is less aggressive so you’re less likely to make an unrecoverable mistake.





PC.
Does Speed Glaze have a longer working time than Optimum Polish because I heard Optimum has a really long work time.
 
IMO rotaries got a bad rep back in the day when a wool pad was pretty much all there was for paint correction. A variable speed rotary with an appropriate foam pad and product combo isn't nearly as dangerous as it's made out to be. Sure, it's still a powerful tool that is capable of destruction in the wrong hands/situation but I think it's much easier to use now then it was 20 years ago. Starting out with a glaze to get the hang of things is a good idea.
 
vdog0531 said:
once you learn how to polish on a rotary, i dont see why you would go to a PC. my PC has not gotten used once since i became proficient with my rotary.



Vernon





Yup that :werd:
 
series1 said:
Does Speed Glaze have a longer working time than Optimum Polish because I heard Optimum has a really long work time.
Haven't tried Optimum myself. Hopefully somebody else who's trred both can chime in.





PC.
 
Definately use practice panels. If possible, different types of paints on each and definately a black panel.
 
The rotary is just not as close to "idiot proof" as a PC or Cyclo so I would say have good patience, concentration, and common sense. Scrap panels or "unloved beater cars" can ease initial concern and apprehension.
 
the other pc said:
Haven't tried Optimum myself. Hopefully somebody else who's trred both can chime in.





PC.



Optimum definitely has a longer working time but it seems a bit more aggressive than #80.
 
Brandon1 said:
How many of yall think it's easy to get started with this great tool?



I finally got a rotary last summer, and have been putting to work ever since. I pretty

much jumped in and worked on my dad's old Buick. It was scary at first, but

as time went on, I found my comfort zone, and just kept at it. I

still have a lot to learn, but I can tell you I've come a long way from

when I first started playing around with it. The fact that my father would

ask me to come down and buff out a customer's car for him, personally speaks

volumes about how well my skills improved. Using modern polish/

compounding products and better foam/ wool pads definitely helped in my

growth. Just take your time, keep the pad flat as possible, keep moving

the rotary in a slow pace, and don't keep working the product until it dries

out on you. It's by no stretch as easy as using a PC, but once you get the

hang of it, you'll find it can offer superior results.



All that said, I still find myself going back to the PC or my Mak to do

the finishing touches for a totally swirl free finish (primarily on dark colored cars).

Hopefully, I will reach the point where I no longer have a need for them. But

for now, they still serve my needs.
 
Back
Top