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Damn Excellent pics!



The Porsche and SC are my favs :cool:



That SC is sick in person, I agree. I like it way more than it's XK-competition.
 
Scott,



Great job, as always on the cars.



I have a question, I did a Porsche 968 over the weekend that I last touched a year ago. It was badly faded and the last time it was waxed was over a year ago when I did it. I used alot of time and 1Z products and got it looking pretty good again.



However, last year I used EX with carnuba. I noticed lots of areas, where it seemed that there was residue. I know last year when I did the car, it didn't have this residue and I know it wasn't touched in the last year. I am guessing it was there, I missed it somehow, and finally dried out over the year. Then the owner said, yeah, about a month after he got it back, these spots started showing up, almost like they were leaching out of the paint.



That didn't sound logical to me, but now that I think about it, I remember the same with my black Audi. It seemed awfully messy and that the stuff just kept appearing. The shine was good, but this white stuff just kept showing up.



I will put it down as user incompetence, but wondered if you had any similar issues?



Thanks,



Sam
 
Scottwax - great looking Porsche - the sexiest car ever built.



I like the contrast of the white wheels on the black BMW, too. It really makes the car standout and not look like every other one driving down the street.



You get to do some great cars!
 
Scott!



Thx Gawd, I've found your pics! Somehow... you know, they must have been sooo over... (what is that word?), that they were literally bleached out... Err... I don't know...



:nixweiss :rolleyes: :o



Baby Terminator T-1000 prototype-protoypes never got the quintessence of the whole pics, because sadly they have only one mission... (And they are only shiny in liquid state! :rofl )



Porsches are sexual! Great work, but a bit... (...that word again?!)

:D :xyxthumbs :bow
 
Scott;



The wheels are NOT factory that way. Those are re-chromed and the new "start" inserts used. The "star" center caps are new for 2004-05. I have a set on mine, but not chrome.



Advise the owner to invest in Armorglove orr other paint film protection. They are prone to stone chips!



Mine: Menzerna polishes, then EX-P and Nattys topped. See more at Poorboys website. More in my gallery.



GSRstilez has seen mine up close and personal :D Ecru interior is a PITA to keep clean, so the Woolite is always in use along with Zaino Z-10 for that wonderful new leather smell. You'll see that the back seat area is always full of light dust from the top down. I viewed a great item in Japan. It's a cover like the old English cars that cover the back seat area. If they become avalible in the US, I will get one for sure!



Nice work as always!:xyxthumbs



Regards,

Deanski
 
BillNorth said:
Scott, great looking pics!! :bow :bow



As a side note, you guys must have a tonne of pollution in Arlington. The blue sky is as white as the clouds. What kind of concrete do they use in arlington? The stuff in the pics looks all washed out.



Strange...



But again, great pics. Me likey...



We get a lot of hazy days around here. We've been having Ozone action days about 2-3 times a week all summer. I'm not sure what kind of concrete they use but most of the streets are concrete instead of blacktop. Why do the sky and concrete tend to wash out? I'm not sure, because I almost always let my camera's light meter decide on the shutter speed and apeture. Maybe my light meter is slightly off? The light meter can be a problem when the car is in the shade but there is sunlight behind it. In that case, the car comes out too dark. The manual mode on my camera is a %$@$ to figure out, I still can't get it right.



If you will notice my pics on cloudy days, the concrete and sky seem more normal. Same when I take pictures late in the day or early evening. I definitely don't want anything overexposed because it tends to wash the picture out and the paint has a flatter look. If anything, detailing pics look best if you underexpose them so the paint looks deeper. Jngrbrdman pointed this out a while back. Everyone posts pics they took in the shade. Big deal, even dirty cars can look decent in the shade. Sun pics are the true test, so if at all possible, I try to take pics in the sun.



If you were seriously wondering, that is your answer.
 
Dean-thanks for the heads up on the SC. I think it is basically a weekend car so I don't know how much freeway usage it gets but I will mention the film paint protection.



I thought the Ecru leather was the light tan? The seats in this car are black and red. Also, how do you get the bottom of the inside back window? I can't figure out how to remove the little plexiglass difuser between the rear headrests. Any hints would be appreciated.



I can certainly see why you are so proud of your car, the SC is absolutely beautiful! All those curves look so good with a wax that makes the paint look deep and wet. :up



SamIam-. It could be because of the single stage paint and maybe some areas just didn't get buffed deeply enough and they refaded more quickly than the rest. I've also noticed that liquid LSPs on faded paint can tend to streak a bit if not all the oxidation was removed. I don't think it is a problem inherent with Poorboy's but liquid LSPs in general. I normally use S100 or #16 on single stage paint now.
 
NTTG said:
Scottwax, what kind of meter does your camera have - matrix, centre weigted, spot or I don't know nor care??



:nixweiss I have a Nikon N60 35mm SLR. It may be because I am focusing on the vehicle, it is throwing the light meter off a bit. I know the concrete the BMW is parked on always looked a bit washed out when I take pics of it in the sun. I have several and they all look like that.
 
Scottwax said:
We get a lot of hazy days around here. We've been having Ozone action days about 2-3 times a week all summer. I'm not sure what kind of concrete they use but most of the streets are concrete instead of blacktop. Why do the sky and concrete tend to wash out? I'm not sure, because I almost always let my camera's light meter decide on the shutter speed and apeture. Maybe my light meter is slightly off? The light meter can be a problem when the car is in the shade but there is sunlight behind it. In that case, the car comes out too dark. The manual mode on my camera is a %$@$ to figure out, I still can't get it right.



If you will notice my pics on cloudy days, the concrete and sky seem more normal. Same when I take pictures late in the day or early evening. I definitely don't want anything overexposed because it tends to wash the picture out and the paint has a flatter look. If anything, detailing pics look best if you underexpose them so the paint looks deeper. Jngrbrdman pointed this out a while back. Everyone posts pics they took in the shade. Big deal, even dirty cars can look decent in the shade. Sun pics are the true test, so if at all possible, I try to take pics in the sun.



If you were seriously wondering, that is your answer.



Thank you. I appreciate the reply. Yes, I actually am curious as to why the pics have the look they do.
 
Yup...photography is great. It's pretty cut and dry.....but the tricks the sun plays on you are extraordinary. Can you believe these pics where taken on the same day?



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Scottwax said:
:nixweiss I have a Nikon N60 35mm SLR. It may be because I am focusing on the vehicle, it is throwing the light meter off a bit. I know the concrete the BMW is parked on always looked a bit washed out when I take pics of it in the sun. I have several and they all look like that.

Generally speaking, if you film your frame with the car, i.e., very little background, and the car is white you open your apreture by about one stop. For example while the shutter speed remains the same and your meter says f8, on manual mode you would change the apreture to f5.6. Just the oposite for a black car. In really bright sun that could go as much as two stops. Reason being the camera meter will try to expose everything in the middle of white and black. Or in otherwords, middle grey.



That's a purely simplified explanation only meant to get you started.
 
Scott;



To get at the rear window, I use that triangle type window cleaner you see on infomercials. Griots sells them and they DO work!



Removing the diffuser is a pain. You have to remove the rear headrest covers to get at it.



Yep, Ecru is that REALLY light tan or cream. It's really nice to look at, but boy what a pain to keep clean!



My SC is also a weekend and fair weather car. It's never seen rain! Always garaged and only taken out in nice dry weather! The suspension still looks new!



Regards,

Deanski
 
Does that window thing actually work? I've been thinking about buying one...



I wonder if Griot's is the same product thats sold on that infomercial...
 
The Nikon N60 has matix and centre weighted metering. Does this predominately happen when you're taking pics of dark vehicles? Check to see if you have the metering system is set to center weighted - in which case your assumption is probably correct - the camera is being fooled by the dark subject it is focused on.



If not, I think your system is slightly out of wack - any good photography place should be able comfirm it for you if you're not into figuring it out.



You have to keep in mind that metering systems are designed around middle grey. If left to there own device they tend to want to make everyting midtone. If you aim an automatic camera at a white wall in full sun light the camera will underexpose it. If you aim your camera at a black way in full sun light your camera (and every other auto camera out there) your camera will over expose it. If you aim you camera at a midtone wall in full sun, it'll be close to perfect. Naturally, each system also varies. Mine tends to overexpose slightly.



Your lights are blowing out big time. I suspect that either your camera is set on center metering. If so try matrix metering. Most camera's (especially Nikon and all major brands) will provide adequate results with multi-segment metering (aka matrix metering). If not, your camera metering is out of wack but...Your camera also has exposure compensation. If the camera is set to matrix metering, try setting the exposure compensation to -1 then -2 when taking similar pictures.



Sure hope you even care about all this blabbling



:o :o



Karen
 
ScottWax: since you re-posted this post , I will give my compliments again



simply amazing work :bow I am totally blown by red SC.
 
GoodnClean said:
Does that window thing actually work? I've been thinking about buying one...



I wonder if Griot's is the same product thats sold on that infomercial...



The Griot's product is higher quality and the mf bonnets actually are pretty good...the mf bonnets that come with the infomercial product are cheap junk.



You can find the infomercial product @ CVS for around $10; I believe the Griot's one is $25 or $30. One thought would be to buy the informercial thing and the bonnets from Griots, but you'd probably be best off just biting the bullet and ordering the Griot's one.
 
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