Langka Chip Repair
- Thread starter mizumania
- Start date
Bill D
Hooked For Life
Mother's now brands this product under its name. I did see it in a local smaller car parts store. Do a search here, you'll find some feedback about it.
Jngrbrdman
New member
It is not something that is real easy to use. It takes some real getting used to. If you know anything about touch up then you have a start. It is tricky to use so don't be to frustrated if there is a learning curve. Maybe try it on a test panel from a junk yard first.
Jesstzn
New member
class said:
Are you really sure on the no clear? I thought most newer cars were cleared. When you rub a cleaner wax on your paint does the rag turn black?
Jngrbrdman
New member
That's a good point. I wasn't aware they had made many cars in the last several years without a clear coat. Certianly any Lexus from the last 5 years would have a clear coat.
GoodnClean
New member
As is the bright red on the IS300, not sure about the SC, Deanski'll know if his has a clear or not.
splogue
New member
Somebody posted on this a while ago. Apparently Lexus didn't use a clear coat on red or black until the last couple of years. So, a 2001 probably *does* have a clear coat.
At least that is what the poster said. Your knowledge may vary. ;-)
Sean
At least that is what the poster said. Your knowledge may vary. ;-)
Sean
raymond_ho2002
New member
I'm almost positive that all black is300's have no clear. My is300 left a lot of black on my yellow pc pads, which I designated for use with FI-II. Yellow foam applicators also come out black after use with clearkote vanilla moose.
It seems that any time black lexuses are mentioned they always take attention away from the original message topic.
I've a lot of chips on my car too and I am also interested in Langka.. I'm also interested in a good source for touch-up paint that matches the factory black..
It seems that any time black lexuses are mentioned they always take attention away from the original message topic.
I've a lot of chips on my car too and I am also interested in Langka.. I'm also interested in a good source for touch-up paint that matches the factory black..
forrest@mothers
Serious no BS kinda guy
For the touch-up paint, try the autosharp pen - I prefer them to the bottle from the dealer.
As for using the Langka type products, I've had my best luck by letting the touch-up paint set for a day or 2, and then using the Langka (it works slower then, so you can control the removal of the excess better).
The best part is its ability to remove all the touch-up paint and start over if you don't like the way it turned out. Try that with wetsanding.....
As for using the Langka type products, I've had my best luck by letting the touch-up paint set for a day or 2, and then using the Langka (it works slower then, so you can control the removal of the excess better).
The best part is its ability to remove all the touch-up paint and start over if you don't like the way it turned out. Try that with wetsanding.....
max_man_94_01
New member
I have used this product. First things first, it is not the miracle product that it is being sold as. However, it still is better than leaving a bare chip exposed and making the touch-up a lot less obvious.
It might take you some amount of practice to get it right. The nice thing is if you rub too much, you will just end up right where you started. A bare chip mark. From there, you start the process over again.
My biggest problem at the start was not knowing when to stop rubbing. I found that putting two pieces of tape parallel to each other on both sides of the chip helps a lot. I wrap the plactic card with the cloth and apply langka onto it. When I rub, I apply pressure on the part of the card that rests on tape and not on the chip mark itself. From there I rub back and forth in the direction of the tape. The tape acts as rails and raises the contact point. Thus preventing you from rubbing out too much of the touch-up paint.
Another thing I learned is to use a little bit of the solution at a time and use a new spot on the cloth after a few swipes. Reason being, after a couple of swipes, you will see that the cloth will get dirtied-up. If you continue using this same spot on the cloth, some of that discoloration will transfer back to the chip. Embedding itself on the borders and ridges of the chip. When it dries up, the chip may look a little darker than what you want. Thus more noticeable. For me it does cause I have a light colored car.
Just remember, this is not the complete answer for dealing with paint chips. It only makes it a lot less noticeable. Hope this helps.
It might take you some amount of practice to get it right. The nice thing is if you rub too much, you will just end up right where you started. A bare chip mark. From there, you start the process over again.
My biggest problem at the start was not knowing when to stop rubbing. I found that putting two pieces of tape parallel to each other on both sides of the chip helps a lot. I wrap the plactic card with the cloth and apply langka onto it. When I rub, I apply pressure on the part of the card that rests on tape and not on the chip mark itself. From there I rub back and forth in the direction of the tape. The tape acts as rails and raises the contact point. Thus preventing you from rubbing out too much of the touch-up paint.
Another thing I learned is to use a little bit of the solution at a time and use a new spot on the cloth after a few swipes. Reason being, after a couple of swipes, you will see that the cloth will get dirtied-up. If you continue using this same spot on the cloth, some of that discoloration will transfer back to the chip. Embedding itself on the borders and ridges of the chip. When it dries up, the chip may look a little darker than what you want. Thus more noticeable. For me it does cause I have a light colored car.
Just remember, this is not the complete answer for dealing with paint chips. It only makes it a lot less noticeable. Hope this helps.