Lambswool vs. Cutting Pad

RAG said:
Byan...sorry for my delay. The link didn't come up for me, but the title said "100% twisted wool." Straight-up twisted wool is very aggresive and will leave the surface pretty tore up; though sometimes this type of aggressiveness is needed, I much prefer lambswool or a blend of twisted wool (like the green Edge 2000 wool blend).
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I have both.. the black and the teal in both 8 inch and 6 inch sizes from edge. I love them and yes the black one cuts like a hot knife though butter. I am more and more liking wool for my first step and foam for step number two.
 
MorBid- Thanks for all that info. Heh heh, this is kinda one of those "everything old is new again" things, I started with a rotary/wool back in the '70s and here I am considering it once again.



On the steamer, yeah I've sometimes wondered if that model you're considering might've been a better idea than my separate units for the steamer and extractor, it'd be good to have both in one unit. Check whether you can add water to the steamer without shutting it down, that's one feature of my Daimer that I find incredibly handy, much more so than I ever would've expected.
 
Accumulator: If your a wool pad detailer from back in the day then it's all the same game. Just newer technology in the types of pads that are out there. Little or no linting and the newer one's are designed to leave less marring than their predessors. I guess it evolves from the newer paints in use today and the expandtion of foam pads into the market place.





I'll start another thread on that steamer and post anything I find out about your question. Even at $1,200 smackers that's about the cost the indiviual semi pro quality tools it's supposed to replace.





Rag: PM Sent
 
MorBid said:
Accumulator: If your a wool pad detailer from back in the day then it's all the same game...
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Same game, different rules :D B/C paint, variable speed rotaries...and now the cars are *mine* ;)
 
01bluecls said:
I have used the rotary for quite a few details and already have two wool pads but have never used either. Any general tips for using them via rotary? I mean if I cant get some scratches, swirls out with Yellow LC with Menz PG at 1500rpms, then with a wool pad at the same rpms, working time, and PG would do the trick? Guess im trying to figure out how to use the wool vs a normal pad. From what I understand the wool via rotary will build up heat faster, so in theory I should reduce the working time of the polish? Sorry for the wool newb questions...
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Just keep in mind wool cuts twice as fast as the yellow pads...nice thing is that they generate very little heat. Be careful on corners.



I don't like PG with wool, though I love PG with foam pads. Get your hands on some HTEC for use with wool (*and foam for that matter).



Feel free to run the wool a little faster (I'd rather run faster and use less pressure than slow with lots of pressure).



Spur the pad frequently or you'll get buildup that will "gouge" a few deep swirls here and there.



If you're working on an isolate scratch, feel free to put the pad up on end a little...this will focus a ton of cutting power on a small area.



Experiment with the twisted wool style and the flat lambs wool style - I use each for different purposes.



Let me know if you have any further questions.
 
holland_patrick said:
I have both.. the black and the teal in both 8 inch and 6 inch sizes from edge. I love them and yes the black one cuts like a hot knife though butter. I am more and more liking wool for my first step and foam for step number two.
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Me too (have both). Black only comes out for rare occasions...probably cust 3 times as fast as say a yellow cutting pad!



When I use wool, I always follow with two polishing steps (three on black paint)...so I don't break the wool out unless I'm ready for a long day :waxing:
 
I'm going to check in a few days a Menzerna lambswool PAD. Wich polish do you think is better to use with a lambswool PAD? I've the wole Menzerna line. I'm asking this because I read that RAG doesn't like PG with lambswool... I think that the problem is that PG dries too fast...

How must I retire the dried polish from this PAD? With a teeth brush?

Thanks !!
 
You don't use a Brush on wool pads. You need to get a spur. I wash my wool pads by rinising them first under water, apply a little bit of pad cleaner or soap and working it in, then rinising till the soap is gone.



Spin dry on the machine and spur again while still on the machine and after most of the water is out.



I've used every polish/compound I have with a wool pad at one time or another and have not had any issues. I don't however used any Menzerrra products. Unless the product was specifically made for use with a foam pad I can't see what would be the issue.



Morbid
 
MorBid said:
You don't use a Brush on wool pads. You need to get a spur. I wash my wool pads by rinising them first under water, apply a little bit of pad cleaner or soap and working it in, then rinising till the soap is gone.



Spin dry on the machine and spur again while still on the machine and after most of the water is out.



I've used every polish/compound I have with a wool pad at one time or another and have not had any issues. I don't however used any Menzerrra products. Unless the product was specifically made for use with a foam pad I can't see what would be the issue.



Morbid
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My god... My english is limited :nixweiss

Could you show me what is a spur?

Thanks mate !! :hifive:
 
buffer pad spur:

Backin4.jpg




in use:

polishes_order_04.jpg
 
Oh thanks !!

I'll look for a spur in Spain, but I think it will be better to look for in UK...

Thanks again !!
 
Wool pads are wonderful BUT remember that most paint correction can be done with a mild polishing pad and medium/low aggressive product, especially on modern paints.



Usually though before I reach for a yellow cutting pad I'll reach for a lambswool pad. Contrary to popular belief, a wool pad will actually generate less heat than a foam cutting pad...at least this is my experience. As noted, always spur the pad between panels and NEVER wash a lambswool pad (especially "belly" lamb pads)...in fact I never wash any of my wool pads. Spur them and then you can blow them out with an air compressor.



I run my wool pads around 1400 rpm's and use a wide variety of products with them, such as OP, HC, IP, PG and FPII.



Anthony
 
Anthony Orosco said:
Wool pads are wonderful BUT remember that most paint correction can be done with a mild polishing pad and medium/low aggressive product, especially on modern paints.



Usually though before I reach for a yellow cutting pad I'll reach for a lambswool pad. Contrary to popular belief, a wool pad will actually generate less heat than a foam cutting pad...at least this is my experience. As noted, always spur the pad between panels and NEVER wash a lambswool pad (especially "belly" lamb pads)...in fact I never wash any of my wool pads. Spur them and then you can blow them out with an air compressor.



I run my wool pads around 1400 rpm's and use a wide variety of products with them, such as OP, HC, IP, PG and FPII.



Anthony
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Yes, less heat and less splatter.
 
maesal said:
I'm going to check in a few days a Menzerna lambswool PAD. Wich polish do you think is better to use with a lambswool PAD? I've the wole Menzerna line. I'm asking this because I read that RAG doesn't like PG with lambswool... I think that the problem is that PG dries too fast...

How must I retire the dried polish from this PAD? With a teeth brush?

Thanks !!
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Obviously it work, but with wool you go through a lot of product and PG is expensive. Other problem is it dries too fast. And you want to talk about dust, work menzerna PG more than a couple quick passes with wool and you better prepare yourself for a mighty dust cloud.
 
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