I hardly ever find myself using aggressive cutting pads (like the typical yellow foam) because (via rotary at least) I actaully have a better finish left behind when I use lambswool pads...and the lambswool gives me TONS more cut. Anybdy share these findings/results with me? I even get a better finish with "light grade" twisted wool (like the teal-colored Edge wool than I do with most yellow cutting pads...now their black twisted wool is a different story.
Lambswool vs. Cutting Pad
- Thread starter RAG
- Start date
wannafbody
wannafbody
lake country has a tufted foam cutting pad-sorta reminds me of a flat powerball pad-might be inbetween the 2 different styles
Envious Eric
New member
Ryan,
i used a rotary back in the day with a wool pad to take out some major scratches when i used to have an offroad tacoma that saw lots of trees and bushes in the desert area. I had much easier luck with the wool mitt than I did with my hitachi and foam pads....seemed easier to control and scratches removed much faster....any thoughts???
eric
i used a rotary back in the day with a wool pad to take out some major scratches when i used to have an offroad tacoma that saw lots of trees and bushes in the desert area. I had much easier luck with the wool mitt than I did with my hitachi and foam pads....seemed easier to control and scratches removed much faster....any thoughts???
eric
AMDin93103
I like cheese.
RAG said:
I have four, one in each abrasive level. I concur. . . no good.
I will need a PTG before I feel comfortable using wool throughout.
Twisted Wool is a very aggressive cutting pad, you'll need to hit the panels with something else after.
I've used both the Black Lambswool pad that Dave from Optimum sells (Anthony O turmed me on to it) and the Foamed Wool pad from LC and like them both alot with my DW849
I'll reach for them before a yellow medium cut pad for the exact reason as stated, they cut pretty damn good but don't leave the heavy marring so I can still do a two pad job.
I've used both the Black Lambswool pad that Dave from Optimum sells (Anthony O turmed me on to it) and the Foamed Wool pad from LC and like them both alot with my DW849
I'll reach for them before a yellow medium cut pad for the exact reason as stated, they cut pretty damn good but don't leave the heavy marring so I can still do a two pad job.
wannafbody said:
I have some of these. They were OK, but I'm in love with the Edge 2000 foam. I feel way more confident in my ability to finish down black with no problems (on rotary) using the Edge. Granted, I've had more practice; however, I really do believe that the E2k is better for ME.
Accumulator
Well-known member
RAG said:
MorBid said:
You guys have really got my attention...hm...might oughta consider wool pads for my next major correction.
What's the most newbie-friendly wool pad these days (I haven't used wool on a rotary for over 20 years)? I'm thinking it'll most likely be with H-T EC.
wannafbody
wannafbody
MorBid said:
I've got a yellow medium cut and it leaves a lot of hollogramming. Might have to try an orange pad with the rotary instead.
EBPcivicsi
GOT PREP?
Accumulator said:
IMO, any of the "knitted" wool pads would work. I buy them locally, but I hear great things about the "foamed knitted wool with nano-something" pad.
For me, the knitted wool will indeed cut like a foam cutting pad, but finish like a foam polishing pad. I do get a bit annoyed at the shedding (when new), but I can work around it.
Now that I think about, I only have three foam cutting pads total, but I keep about 10 knitted wool pads around. I reach for knitted wool when an orange pad won't "cut it." I am still trying to figure the orange pads for *my* process.
Accumulator
Well-known member
ebpcivicsi- OK, thanks. When a few passes the EC/orange didn't cut it on the Blazer (after first trying multiple passes with the Cyclo/orange) I started worrying about the already-thinned clear and quit, but if I'd had enough clear to work with I could've used a more aggressive approach (at least to save time).
I'm spoiled by years of only doing my own cars...buying used stuff in awful shape has me realizing that I need to find some new, more aggressive approaches. Well, at least for the initial refurbishing
Then the aggressive stuff can sit on the shelf while I stick to my tried-and-true combos.
I'm spoiled by years of only doing my own cars...buying used stuff in awful shape has me realizing that I need to find some new, more aggressive approaches. Well, at least for the initial refurbishing
Then the aggressive stuff can sit on the shelf while I stick to my tried-and-true combos.Accumulator
Well-known member
ShineMGood said:
I always like sending business their way, Ron K. has been *VERY* helpful over the years.
Accumulator said:
Accumulator:
You can get the Lambswool pads I was talking about from Kleen Car. They sell all of the Optimum products and Dave from there told me to call them. They are in NJ so for me it's closer. They are only like 11.00 bucks
As I said before these are great pads, esp on my Black Audi, as I'm not working hard to correct the correction.
I'm thinking about getting this Desiderio dry vapor steamer they are selling once I get some more feedback on it. I think for the price it should suit my needs.
For those who haven't seen em yet these are the CCS Technology Pads from LC. I just heard about them and again will need to get some more feed back on them.
LC has a listing of Wool Pad Applicaitons and 4-ply twisted wool is about as aggressive of a pad you can get.
Morbid
I have used the rotary for quite a few details and already have two wool pads but have never used either. Any general tips for using them via rotary? I mean if I cant get some scratches, swirls out with Yellow LC with Menz PG at 1500rpms, then with a wool pad at the same rpms, working time, and PG would do the trick? Guess im trying to figure out how to use the wool vs a normal pad. From what I understand the wool via rotary will build up heat faster, so in theory I should reduce the working time of the polish? Sorry for the wool newb questions...
01bluecls said:
The "type" of wool pad you have will dictate how much correction it will do. They are like foam in that they come in Cutting and Polishing and some of the Cutting one's can be pretty aggressive.
You are right when it come to using wool you don't want to let it build up heat in one spot to long or it's burn through city. One thing is to get a "spur" and use it often on the pad to keep the material from "caking" up on the pad. The more aggressive the wool pad the more it will leave the finish corrected (which is putting in machine swirls) so you have to inspect your work often to make sure you don't over do it.
Generally I find that the work time per panel is reduced by using wool as it tends to correct quicker than foam. When working with scratches I break them down into one's that can be removed and one's that will be leveled.
gmblack3a said:
Byan...sorry for my delay. The link didn't come up for me, but the title said "100% twisted wool." Straight-up twisted wool is very aggresive and will leave the surface pretty tore up; though sometimes this type of aggressiveness is needed, I much prefer lambswool or a blend of twisted wool (like the green Edge 2000 wool blend).