Klasse twins question please...

R

roadster

New member
I need some of you folks to critique my work practices if possible. I had my Reatta coupe painted with the Dupont Chroma Premier System (the lifetime warranteed system) about a year ago...Very nice job. About a month ago I did the Klasse Twins application on both my coupe and the girlfriends C70. Both cars good no doubt, but thought it would have a much deeper and wetter look.



What I did to both vehicles:



Washed well

Clayed

Washed again

Applied AIO...wiped on and immediately wiped off

Same day following the AIO I applied the Klasse Sealant...wiped on and wiped

off again immediately

Waited until the next day and applied the Klasse sealant again



Waited another day and applied seveal coats of S100...agin wipe on/off



*********************************************************************



As I said/wrote, looks good but expected more :sadpace:



Did I use the correct procedures, and



Will it have had a deeper and wetter look if I had applied more (and if so how many more) coats of Klasse Sealat and or both AIO and sealant?



How or what should I do to improve my procedures and appearance please?



Many thanks,



:usa



Nic
 
perhaps letting the KSG set a little longer before wiping it on/off - this method has mixed reviews, but it has worked for me . . .



you might consider applying a few more coats of the KSG and then try topping it with a carnuba to add depth and gloss.



I didnt see any polishing in your steps . . . even if your finish is flawless a light polish with a fine polishing pad will improve the clarity and shine of your paint . . . also meaking your toppers produce more "pop" and wetness . . . .



I dont use aio as a polish. i use it only to prep the surface for KSG. It claims to have polishing abilities, but personally i have had better luck with it as a cleaner/prep step for KSG, and I am normally polishing paint prior to the application of the twins anyway . . . so as for your particular concern reguarding the finished outcome . . . . . all i can offer aside from the above mentioned ideas is to do a quick polish.



good luck . . . .
 
I use the Klasse twins on my cars (sapphire blue metallic Miata, black Lincoln LS and beige Land Cruiser) and . Sometimes I top it with S100 (a mistake on the darker cars), Souveran (yeah baby), Eagle One Nanowax Spray (I like it better than S100 in this application), original formula Meguiar's Gold Class liquid (no improvement, actually no perceived difference) and NXT paste (very good but still a couple of steps below K twins IMO). After all that experimenting, I used AIO via PC and there was a marked improvement in color clarity. The most recent layer was S100. While it glowed, it obscured the color. I have just put on my 2nd coat of SG. It looks like wet fingernail polish. I will build up 5 layers for my winter coat. I really don't like topping it with anything except Souveran which adds tons of depth and adds wetness and darkens the color. S100 is a brighter looking carnauba that works better with lighter colors.



I'd say start all over and just do the K twins and build up 5 SG layers. If you must top it, EO Nanowax Spray is quite nicer than the others with the exception of Souveran ($$$). Skip the S100.
 
AIO should be applied and removed (as per the directions) before it dries to a haze. I like to do this with the PC. Now as mentioned, there are mixed feelings and some debate about KSG and WOWO. I prefer to stick with the directions that indicate it should be applied very thin and allowed to dry to a haze before wipe off (I have done this by hand and with the PC. The same is also true of carnubas like S100. So your WOWO of KSG and S100 may have reduced their effectiveness.

You don't mention the colors of the cars. The Klasse twins seem to leave a candy coating shine, but not real wet or pop, especially on lighter colors. S100 should have given you wet and pop but perhaps the wowo hurt you there. At this stage, you could start over, but I'd suggest you try re-applying S100, this time letting it dry to a haze before buffing - if one coat looks good, add one more.



My ride has AIO & KSG x3. I'm about to apply 2 coats of Collinite 476S and as if that's not enough, I'll give it a final wipedown (and augment thru winter) with Duragloss Aquawax (wowo - no water).
 
You don't mention anything about difficulties wiping the hazing off. This makes me wonder if you've managed to not apply enough. It's a darn hard product to apply owing to trying to get a rather minute quantity onto the applicator. But you can fake yourself out when applying it because a damp sponge leaves the same sort of quick evaporating ghost track that SG does.
 
I agree with what's been said above. For one to improve the results you probably should have done some polishing. Basically you washed/clayed/waxed...which basically cleans the surfaces and protects them..not much done to improve their look. I also let my ksg dry before buffing off. I know there's a big debate, but I don't think the WOWO method really gets stuff to 'stick' as well as letting it dry and fully bond to the paint...but thats just my opinion. As a side note, I don't really see the point in washing again after claying.
 
agreed . . . i suppose if you make a real mess, which can happen with claying if you go heavy on the lube . . . ;)



whops . . i got off topic . . .
 
Besides the prep issue, the look of KSG simply isn't for everyone. Maybe you just don't like how it looks on the paints in question. IMO KSG isn't a great choice for depth and it's just so-so for wetness. I'm not a huge fan of how it looks on certain paints, and a topper of P21s might not "fix" it in your eyes either.
 
Lightman said:
I agree with what's been said above. For one to improve the results you probably should have done some polishing. Basically you washed/clayed/waxed...which basically cleans the surfaces and protects them..not much done to improve their look. I also let my ksg dry before buffing off. I know there's a big debate, but I don't think the WOWO method really gets stuff to 'stick' as well as letting it dry and fully bond to the paint...but thats just my opinion. As a side note, I don't really see the point in washing again after claying.
Click to expand...



First, if you've got decent, swirl free paint, I don't know if you really need an abrasive polish. AIO after claying may be all that's needed to clean the paint to the point of luster. (of course if there are swirls, marring, or scratches, it different)



Also, as to washing after claying, it all depends on how you clay. If you spray the clay lubricant, work the clay and immediately wipe off with an MF, then I'd likely agree. But another method is to spray the lube, work the clay and just keep going without wiping, then wash again when finished. Either works well.
 
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