Klasse Sealant Glaze
- Thread starter Aekon
- Start date
ok, ill experiment and see what works. i think the alcohol wipedown sounds good, though it might take longer than just going over the car with the machine and some poli-seal as the AIO.
though, thats a bit confusing, because if im tryin to get poli-seal off, why would i use more poli-seal?
though, thats a bit confusing, because if im tryin to get poli-seal off, why would i use more poli-seal?
Aekon said:
You wouldn't. You correctly identified the problem. Poli-seal is an All-In-One, which means, cleaner and protectant. If you use it, it will clean the surface and re-apply the *same* (potentially incompatible) protectant.
You need an AIO that is acrylic/polyethylene-based, like Klasse/Carlack/Werkstatt.
This will create the best base for KSG.
I've never tried (and don't believe) that a virgin surface creates the best results with KSG.
So, while IPA will remove the previous LSP, it still requires an acrylic/polyethylene base to bond to.
Back to:
OR
OR
Of interest is this article: CarLack 68 - Nano Systematic Care
Enjoy!
i just mean id placed an order for some stuff, pads, polish, etc, and DIDNT order this stuff cause last week i didnt know about it, or rather, what it was for. so i guess it will hafta wait for now.
alfi, just outa curiosity, is the sti in your name for the car? i drive an 05 STi myself. just curious!
alfi, just outa curiosity, is the sti in your name for the car? i drive an 05 STi myself. just curious!
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Well-known member
Damp pad for KAIO (I use distilled ir deionized water).
I prefer a dry (other than the KSG itself) pad for KSG.
No real way to exaggerate how thinly to apply it; I use just enough to keep the applicator gliding across the paint (far less than an ounce for the minivan, including all it's jambs/etc.).
I prefer a dry (other than the KSG itself) pad for KSG.
No real way to exaggerate how thinly to apply it; I use just enough to keep the applicator gliding across the paint (far less than an ounce for the minivan, including all it's jambs/etc.).
When I'm applying AJ, which is very similar in application, I use a dry microfiber applicator and single drops of AJ. I then buff the paint with the applicator. It's best if you never see any residue on the paint and the pad is only a little damp with product. Many times, the only way to tell you've added anything to the paint is an increase in gloss (sometimes) and an increase in slickness (usually unless it was already slick from a previous application). If you do it this way, there's no residue to buff off.