Klasse AIO and clay bar questions

Bill1975

New member
Hi all - a couple questions regarding these topics...



1) I recently purchased some Klasse AIO and am using it per the instructions on the bottle, using a yellow Meguiars foam applicator, and applying by hand. One time I wet the applicator, the other I didnt and didnt notice a difference. My issue is that I am having a hard time removing it as I can still see remnants of it in the paint after I buff it out, especially on the hood. I try and remove it quickly as it says you are not supposed to let it dry. I usually put a dime to nickel sized portion on the applicator and try to cover a 16" to 24" section, work it in evenly then remove and buff it out with a yellow MF towel. Any idea why Im having a hard time? Also, why are you not supposed to let it dry? Other than that it seems to work well, I just rewaxed last night, after two months.



2) I need another clay bar. I have been using the Mothers and Meguiars clay systems available at Pep Boys, Autozone etc. However I want to try something different, and do not need the QD/Lube that comes with it (I have plenty). I assume what I have been using is a fairly mild clay. My car stays outside and is clayed 3 times a year. What would compare, yet not be too aggressive? I have looked at the Griot's Garage and the Sonus ultra-fine clay bars. I noticed Megs offers some professional level products that includes more aggressive grades of clay.



Thanks for you suggestions!
 
I just recently started using KAIO & SG myself. From what you say, sounds like you're doing it correctly and with the right equipment, I use a damp foam applicator as well with great results. I see that you in Dallas, I've noticed that KAIO can be a bit finicky with heat and humidity. I'm in Alabama, so I've got the same problem, I used KAIO at 10pm with temps around 85 and still very humid, even with no sun, I was having trouble getting it off. Friday afternoon it was 72 with no humidity and I was in the shade, it was like a completely different product, WOWO, no difficulty at all.

Maybe that can be some help to you, or I come off sounding like a complete idiot not knowing what I'm talking about in my first post!! :nervous2:
 
hehe, i also started useing KAIO and using it in 70 degree weather and zero humidity works wonders.



like BRODEY said, it could be because of the temperature and humidity of Dallas.



As for the clay, i have only used Sonus ultra-fine clay bars and they work wonders for me. They are able to slow and gently lift off not only invisiable surface containments but visible ones as well.
 
The first time I used AIO was this past July, in the evening, though it was still very warm out. This past weekend I used it again in the evening but it wasnt any warmer than 80 degrees, maybe 76-78 or so. Dont know about the humidity but there's usually some humidity esp during the summer. I think I sometimes have a tendency to apply it too thick. Looking at it again today, there are still many areas where I can still see that i didnt remove all of it. Thats what I get for working at night in low light.



I often feel like I am using too little. At least with the other waxes I used (Mothers Carnauba, and Mothers FX SynWax) I could remove all of it, even if it did take a little extra effort. Still, I like how AIO helps to get rid of rain spots and light contaminants.



I will consider the Sonus clay bar. How does it compare to the meguiars clay kit bar?
 
sorry to threadjack, but I just can't figure out why I cant post a new topic. When I'm done writing my thread and click post, it hangs for a while then the next screen is blank. I can post replies but not my own topic? Any idea??
 
I have the same AIO problem you're having. I was pizzed off when It looked like my new tacoma had swirls out the wazzo after polishing with AIO. When I wiped the cloth across the swirls, they changed direction and I could see it was just a smudge. The whole truck was smuged.



I'm in Houston and its hot and humid here too so I'm retty sure the humidity has something to do with it. Good news is that the smudges come off after the first wash. I chose not to buff any more for fear of making real swirl marks in the process.





Clay bar

Have you tried Clay Magics Clay bar. I use it and its pretty good.
 
i havent tried clay magic. is it possible to just get the bar by itself?



Also, how would buffing out the smudges make real swirls?
 
Don't think so but the bar and the lube is only $10 at autozone. Cheaper than the other ones. I've only seen the blue at AZ but they also make a red that is more aggresive. THe blue does a good jub for me. passes the sandwitchbag test no problem.



How would buffing cause more swirls?

It would take some real buffing to get the oily residue off completely. a QD would probably work better. I don't want to rub on the paint any mre than necessary as there is always dust in the air that can get between your MF towel and the paint.



I have a midnight blue tacoma and have gotton really cautious about creating swirlmarks.
 
Yes, I may just buy another clay "kit" and call it a day. I hope QD lasts a while because I have a quite a bit.



I found that QD helped a bit right after I waxed. But, I can always re-do it if it's bad enough.



And, yes, I am cautious too, my black Passat is very unforgiving....
 
Newbie here.....just used my PC and Klasse AIO...noticed the streaking but used Eagle One Wipe & Shine on MF towel. Works really well with removing the residue and clearing the streaking.



Blue
 
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