Jerez Black M3

Jason M

New member
This car was really enjoyable to work on. The paint wasn't silly soft like some BMW's can be. It had it's fair share of buffer swirls, holograms, and my personal favorite, deeper circular scratches from some sort of contaminant, being drug all over the car by the dealership detailers. I was originally contacted about correcting some deeper wash marks that came from a dealer wash during a recent service.



The owner uses the two bucket method of washing with a grit guard and always hand washes. With this information I decided that a multi-step correction would be time well spent as I know the owner will do a good job maintaining the finish.



My process:

Wash with GC

Wheels with Wheel Brightener

Tires, wheel wells, and undercarriage with APC+ 4:1

Clay with mild blue and last touch 1:1

M105 via Makita @ 1200-1500-1200 and LC PFW pad

Ultimate Compound via DA @ speed 5 with Meguiar's yellow pad

M205 via DA @ speed 5 with Meguiar's Black pad

NXT via DA @ speed 3 with Meguiar's tan pad



Some befores:



Here you can see a couple holo's and while the paint has some shine it also lacks any real depth or sharpness of reflection



M3before1.jpg




M3before2.jpg




Some of the buffer swirls and deeper tick marks left by the dirty pad they used:



M3before3.jpg




Car driven 3 hours for me to buff = BUGS!



M3before4.jpg




Day one involved getting the car washed, clayed and multiple test spots.



Day two started with M105 via LC Purple Foamed Wool pads. The more I use these the more I like them. They are a good middle ground pad the removes defects better than foam polishing pads and leave the finish nicer than foam cutting pads.



In this shot the hood has been compounded while the fender has not. Raised areas of adjacent panels are taped off during compounding. In this particular case the fender has been taped where it meets the hood.



M3during1.jpg




And this is the finish AFTER M105 and PFW. The M105/PFW combo leaves some swirls for sure. However, they are very fine and more importantly VERY uniform in depth. Given the severity of defects this combo removes the finish it leaves is remarkably good IMO:



M3afterpfw.jpg
 
At this point I had a decision to make. The finish was nice enough that M205 on a yellow pad would remove the swirls left by my last step and finish out nicely making this a true two step correction. However, knowing that the owner will keep the finish in excellent condition I decided to do an intermediate step which would allow me to finish with M205 on a black pad for a clearer, sharper final product. So Ultimate Compound was used with an 8006 pad at speed 5.



After final polishing with M205 on a black pad the car was stripped of all the blue tape and taken outside to be foamed and rinsed. This removed all the dust and wool left from compounding and polishing.



M3foam1.jpg




A mix of Super Soap and NXT soap was run in the foam gun:



M3foam2.jpg




The car was then dried and NXT was applied via a tan pad at speed 3.



At this point it was getting late and with a 3 hour drive ahead for the owner I only got a few afters as he was picking up the car.



M3after2.jpg




M3after4.jpg




M3after5.jpg




M3after6.jpg




After two days and about 12 hours behind the buffer this M3 is back on the road wearing the shine it deserves:



M3after1.jpg




Comments and questions always welcome and thanks for looking!
 
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