Had strict time constraints on this so I didn't get to do a two step compound and polish like it should have gotten, but oh well.
I did get to try out Opti-Coat 2.0 for the first time though! More on that later.
Process:
Pressure washed entire vehicle including undercarriage
Foam gun with Optimum car wash and little ONR
2 bucket wash with Optimum car wash and little ONR
ARO on tires and wheel wells
Sonax Full Effect on wheels
Optimum Power Clean at 1:3 for engine
303 on all cleaned engine plastic/rubber
Klasse AIO on interior engine hood paint
Clayed with Pinnacle Poly Clay
Megs MF 3" cutting pads with D300 to remove larger scratches
LC 4" and 5.5" Tangerine Hydrotech pads with Optimum Hyper Polish as 1 step
DP Krystal Vision glass cleaner
Concentrated IPA and Optimum Power Clean wipedown after polishing
PERL on rear bumper, windshield cowling and tires
CQuartz on interior door wells
Opti-Coat 2.0 on all paint, wheels and glass
Car when it arrived
Pressure washing
Sonax doing it's thing
Foam breaking down
Found this when I opened the engine, thanks service center...
Paint condition before
After, I probably got 75% correction overall.
Now for the fun stuff
Okay, I'll say this about Opti-Coat 2.0. People were making a really big deal out of nothing about the application of this product. I read so many people freaking out about it. I think it stems from the word "permanent".
This product is VERY SIMPLE to use folks. I admit, I was freaking out a little too. After using it on a couple panels however, I learned that this stuff is almost fool proof. All you do is wipe it on and after 4-5 minutes wipe off any wet spots that haven't flashed yet. That is it, nothing else.
Prime your pad with an "X" pattern
Wipe it on in straight line motions, up/down and go over it again left/right. You'll see and feel the product going on. It flashes off pretty quickly.
Now here is the part many people were freaking out over, the "high spots" or basically just too much product applied in an area that won't flash off on it's own and needs to be blended in, or have the excess product removed. After trying to blend high spots with the applicator, I found it MUCH EASIER to just take a microfiber towel and lightly buff it off. The high spots are not tacky and do not grab the mf leaving lint behind (a fear I had) the Opti-Coat just comes right off usually in just one quick swipe.
For hard to see areas LED light was used to make sure no high spots were left.
Afters.
The worst part about cleaning up cars is having to clean up the mess afterward.
My closing thoughts are that having now used both Opti-Coat 2.0 and CQuartz, they are both very easy to use, whether it be on paint, glass or wheels. They both have trade offs in my opinion. CQuartz doesn't last as long (2 years vs. "permanent"), has a much stronger odor and is more expensive, but I can layer it and it doesn't require full removal from an entire panel if I want to fix a scratch.
Opti-Coat 2.0 can be a problem if you get a chip or scratch somewhere and you want to fix it since you'd have to compound it off the entire panel if you want to fix it. I would be very mad if I had to grind this stuff off an entire roof of my Ford Flex...which is why I'll stick with CQuartz for my own cars but will use Opti-Coat 2.0 on other peoples DD that won't notice or mind a small scratch/scuff/rock chip.