Jean Dye Transfer // Alkalinity // Mumblings and Condundrum

M

mobiledynamics

New member
For heavy RAW jean dye transfer - or mitigating of light colored leather, any suggestions.

Brand new car -- Ivory White Leather.

As much as I do the stepover, regardless, my outer bolster get`s Dye Transfer.
Bottom seats dont` show the dye transfer or anywhere else doesn`t, just the outer bolster

In my interior car cleaning regimen, I`m literally using the strongest Interior Cleaner within my comfort zone to remove the dye transfer Weekly. From a PH level, granted the leather itself may take on some of the detriments of the PH level.....but the coating in which I`m using the product on...surely it can`t be healthy. However, in my mind, it doesn`t make sense or does to use such a strong cleaner in order to remove the dye and then followup with a conditioner To be frank, I`ve stopped using Leather Conditioner/Cleaner on cars about 8 years ago....Mainly water wipedowns.

The following won`t even remove the dye transfer in 1 weeks sitting.
Water, 1:32 APC, Cockpit Premium

Next level up
1:20 APC - slight dent of transfer of dye cleaned onto MF
1:10 ---At this point, I just head straight to Deep Plastic Cleaner which is even more potent that my 1:10 Blitz

At this point, I think it will be weekly Deep Plastic being used on the outer bolster followed by maybe every 3-4 weeks of a light touch of conditioner. I`ve got plenty of leather conditioners, and from a macro-minute-miniscule level, I suppose some may work it`s way in. But IME, I`ve found that my leather stays cleaner without superficial topical makeup ~~on coated leather~~.......I know there are some die-hard you must condition leather mindsets in here, so I`ll try to refrain from the butting heads.
 
I have too much experience with this. Wife`s mdx is light tan and my Infiniti is dove grey.

I was using ultima interior shampoo and it worked great. Since buying pa Bella clean and charisma that works perfectly as well.

Pro tip. After getting this all cleaned up coat the Leather with gyeon Leater coating or whatever leather cleaner you like and it makes next time cleaning even easier.

I use a MF or super soft pa brush on the leather. I spray; brush and blot. Repeat as necessary.

Ask here or Pm me if your in need of any more detail.
 
While I love me some coatings, this is a area where where I don`t intend to use a coating.
Once it`s one, the only way to get it off -- well, I can`t imagine where to start. Similar to trim.
There is a subtle color/sheen change as well when said products are use - but my issue is more about the removal...

Right now, it`s a challenge. More of a f`n challenge as I`m not happy with the PH level of cleaner I need to use, and the consistency of how often it is. I suppose I`ll just need to switch up to Khakis and sweats and or Japanese Dye is more potent ;-0
 
Coating the leather is not a requirement but does make next time cleaning easier is the point I wanted to make.

I`ve been removing jean transfer for longer than leather coating products were part of my car care aresenal.

The products I listed above work well and as long as we`re talking factory coated type leather I think the key is to use a mild product and brush so as to protect and preserve the factory coating. I think of the coatings I apply to the leather in my cars line a better looking version of a plastic slip cover I`ve seen of other people sofas lol. Another layer of protection.

Fwiw the wolfs leather coating and the gyeon Leather coating worked well and neither changed the color, texture or feel of the leather. I prefer the gyeon only because it had less of a chemical smell.


Good Luck
 
I hear ya on the coatings. Might need to do a test spot. But they are so new IMO, how does it look or feel , or consistency of either simply thru abrasion in 6 months.

I`m VERY particular on Interiors. Afterall, that is the majority of where we spend some part of our time....

I generally use about 4-5 MF`s on cleaning the steering wheel weekly simply just due to how I clean it and the ~mindset~ of cleaning one spot and not transferring any residual dirt/body oil on the steering wheel. I`ve been known to swap a new steering wheel mid-cycle on a 4 year leasee....just to get a fresh neutral, steering wheel. That is how OCD I can sorta get with the interiors...


Mild being the key word yeah, but it turns out, I`m needing to use the strongest product I would normally even need to use on a interior on the outer bolster.

I think it would be a different discussion if I was using the same product let`s say on a door panel.
That I would have no qualm about. Ya know what I mean
 
Sounds like you are on the right track. For new leather I always go over it with a microfiber towel damp with 1z blitz APC 1:30 and if there is dye transfer left I always keep a bottle of optimum power clean diluted 1:15. It`s amazing what OPC even at such a weak dilution is still capable of doing when paired with a soft boar`s hair brush or the new sonax leather brush (which has a little bit stiffer bristles).

Out of all the leather conditioners and protectants, in my experience the only two products that seem to actually make the leather easier to clean when I see the vehicle again two weeks or a month later are D156 and Opti-seal. Which leads me to believe that products like Wolfgangs cockpit Trim Sealant and Ultima`s interior guard would also provide those same benifits.

The only conditioner I`ve used that also seems to help make dye transfer removal a bit easier is Optimum`s Protectant Plus (though does not always produce a uniform satin finish and can dry a bit splotchy). For most of my bi-weekly/monthly customers I only use Optimum Protectant Plus twice a year and use either Opti-seal or D156 after every single cleaning. Personally, opti-seal looks better on light leather/vinyl and D156 looks better darker leather/vinyl. Even if the new leather only required a quick wipedown of 1z blitz APC at 1:30 on a kirkland microfiber towel I`ll always follow with either d156 or opti-seal.

By the way, I`ve mentioned this before but if you are a professional and you need alot of microfiber towels. I highly recommend buying the TRC 245 edgeless. Once I use the rest of my costco kirklands I will only be using TRC`s edgeless 245 because the low pile makes it MUCH better at scrubbing leather and vinyl without needing a 3m non-abrasive scrub pad or boars hair brush). They make me way more efficient and I can`t imagine finding a better towel that when purchased wholesale actually cost less per towel than kirklands.

Sorry for the long winded response. Hope I was able to provide you atleast a little value.
 
IIRC there`s a product made just for this (cleaning off the transfer). I think the Leather Doctor sells it if you`re willing to go through the hassle of dealing with Roger (whose stuff is top-notch IME).
 
I actually spoke with Roger about this. I already have that in my stash. He also has a coating as well....if I recall my mumblings.
Cleaning interiors is not my issue. It`s just this pesky outer bolster/light color leather/peasky jap. denim dye. It`s almost as bad as soft paint. Finish cleaning it and by the time I`m finished putting my cleaning supplies away, it`s back on.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top