It Just Didn't Cut It...

C

CleanRSX

New member
Hi Autopia,



This is my first official post on this forum but I have been reading on here for months and months in preparation of my first major detail on my new to me Acura RSX. Simply put, this forum blows away any sort of detailing reference out there! The knowledge on here is incredible! Now back to my issue...so after my first detail was completed I was really down on the results! Yes the car had lots and lots of swirls and RIDS etc, but I really didn't think it would be this hard to get a good cut into the clear. I managed about 60% correction which was really upsetting after all the time and hard work put in, especially after reading that Honda (Acura) paint is generally softer and easier to correct. I'm not sure what I was doing wrong or maybe I just need to step up my pad combination and retry. Here are some of the details to help you figure out where I went wrong:



-I moved SLOW probably an inch per second on speed 6

-I worked in generally 2' by 2' sections and made passes across then up and down

-Used 4 fresh pads on the compounding stage for the entire car



And here is my setup:



PC 724XP

Optimum Compound II

Optimum Polish II

LC Flat Orange Pads

LC Flat White Pads

Tons of quality microfibers



Perhaps I should go for the Megs MF disc setup? Or perhaps I wasn't using the Compound correctly? Any feedback would really help! Thanks in advanced.
 
It's hard to say exactly why it didn't turn out as well as you hoped, but don't feel bad, nobody gets it just right the first time. How much compound were you using per section? Are you regularly cleaning the pads as you go? Vary the pressure applied and see if that helps any also. It may be that the RIDS are just too deep to remove without getting more aggressive, which is not user error but just how it goes sometimes.



Keep practicing and researching, that's the only way you will get better at it. What you have should be fine for that car, but I would definitely get the Megs MF discs and D300 also, and see where that gets you.
 
I understand your frustration with my vw gti. I went through megs ultimate compound with ok results then megs 105 but not enough experience to keep the dusting manageable, I did get my results with the mf kit. I did get to refine my technique with the previous attempts which I'm sure you did as well. So not all is lost. The biggest thing I learned is that I wasn't working the products long enough . I would only make two passes, one left to right and one up and down. I got considerable correction after 4-6 passes, a bit nerve raking as the product was incredibly thin. Using less product helped cut as well because as it wasn't loading the pad with product and not clear coat. I am still a new to this, but I think everyone has been in this stage.



Good luck







Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
 
Thanks for the quick replies so far, at first I tried the KB method (pad priming) but found that there was way too much product on the pad and it dusted and clumped like crazy. After that I was only using 2 pea sized drops per section and this resulted in almost no dusting which was nice! As for the section passes it sounds like I need to do way more passes this time around. Should I try a heavier cutting pad like a LC yellow or go right for the MF discs that everyone has been raving about?
 
MF pads will cut better - how long did you spend cutting? What color car?





CleanRSX said:
Thanks for the quick replies so far, at first I tried the KB method (pad priming) but found that there was way too much product on the pad and it dusted and clumped like crazy. After that I was only using 2 pea sized drops per section and this resulted in almost no dusting which was nice! As for the section passes it sounds like I need to do way more passes this time around. Should I try a heavier cutting pad like a LC yellow or go right for the MF discs that everyone has been raving about?
Click to expand...
 
Don't worry about the dusting, just start cutting down on the amount of product as you go.

Keep the "buff film" of the product wet, but don't over do it.

2 "pea sized" drops do not sound like sufficent product from my decades of buffing paint.

Most products, if used with lack of proper amount, too high of buffer speed will not work, the abrasives do the work, with the pad adding to the cut/polish process.

If dust is a problem, you can always wash the car after you are done.

Grumpy
 
I am also realtively new to Machine Polishing, but have not had the difficulties you have experienced. I spent a couple of months reading and watching videos, then deciding on products (at least you choose products that are easy to work with) and then some practice on an older car that was to be sold. So far I have had excellent results. Here is a link to a long list of articles and videos by Mike Philips--you don't have to read all of them, just pick and choose the ones that may apply to you. Articles by Mike Phillips - Auto Geek Online Auto Detailing Forum



A few things that I found to be extremely important: Before you polish the entire car work out your technique and products on a 2' X 2' area--perhaps on the hood--only after getting that to the condition you want should you move on to the remainder of the car. It's vitally important to "clean you pad on the fly" after each panel or two--I use a towel and a denture brush from the Dollar Store--see the article in Mike's list. For the most part I think there is a tendency for us beginners to use too much product so play with that a little--even with the KB method there shouldn't be allot of product on the pad, just a small amount spread evenly over the pad (I believe). Don't be afraid of using pressure, but allowing the pad to rotate--initially I was so worried about damaging the paint that I wasn't using enough--did you put a black line on your backing plate so you can monitor rotation? Are you using 5.5" pads?--the PCXP is not the most powerful unit and corrects better with smaller pads.



I use Buff & Shine pads and the yellow pad cuts well, but finishes nicely--I have read that the LC Yellow doesn't finish well. If your paint is soft perhaps you should be finishing with a less aggressive pad maybe green or blue?? I wouldn't start jumping around from product to product until you're sure your technique is correct--you'd just make things more complicated. Good luck!!
 
I spent probably 2 or 3 passes max which is probably a factor here, also the pads seemed to have enough compound as there was a constant film when I was compounding. I will try a bit more product next time. Pads were 5.5". The color of the car is Desert Silver Metallic which is more of a dark beige than silver. Looks like experimenting on a few test panels would be a good start, might try this on the weekend before I go out and get the MF discs.
 
CleanRSX said:
Thanks for the quick replies so far, at first I tried the KB method (pad priming) but found that there was way too much product on the pad and it dusted and clumped like crazy. After that I was only using 2 pea sized drops per section and this resulted in almost no dusting which was nice! As for the section passes it sounds like I need to do way more passes this time around. Should I try a heavier cutting pad like a LC yellow or go right for the MF discs that everyone has been raving about?
Click to expand...



I find two pea sized drops perfect for working a 2' x 2' area, even with the MF discs. You may want to try the Buff and Shine yellow compounding pads as well. More cut than the orange and they finish down beautifully. Slow the machine down to speed 5. It will help stop the polish from drying out too quickly.
 
What size pads are you using?



Personally, I like D300, but I use it with an orange B&S foam pad. Works wonders on Subaru paint. The MF pads are good, but I've burnt through too many of them even using Meg's suggested backing plates along with different pressures, speeds, etc...



Don't be down on yourself with the results. Practice only makes perfect and even after 4 years, I am still trying different products and practicing rotary skills (easily my weakest point)
 
DirtyWeRX said:
What size pads are you using?



Personally, I like D300, but I use it with an orange B&S foam pad. Works wonders on Subaru paint. The MF pads are good, but I've burnt through too many of them even using Meg's suggested backing plates along with different pressures, speeds, etc...



Don't be down on yourself with the results. Practice only makes perfect and even after 4 years, I am still trying different products and practicing rotary skills (easily my weakest point)
Click to expand...



Thanks for the advice. I was using 5.5" pads which are supposedly better for cutting. Quick question...theoretically is my setup adequate for cutting heavy swirls and RIDS? Or should I step up with something more aggressive?
 
You need to factor in 2 things:



1 - Look at the amount of hours the top pro detailiers spend on full correction. Now compare that to how much time you spent.



2 - experience of those pro detailers, compared to the number of cars you have corrected.



I know it is easy to look at the best of the best and the results they create and say - I can do that! Yes you can, but one needs to be realistic about the time frame and understand that you are working on auto clear, I don't care what make or model. All clear is hard. Paint correction/RIDS removal is a time consuming process. Keep going at it and you will have a near perfect finish.



Lets see some pictures!



CleanRSX said:
Thanks for the advice. I was using 5.5" pads which are supposedly better for cutting. Quick question...theoretically is my setup adequate for cutting heavy swirls and RIDS? Or should I step up with something more aggressive?
Click to expand...
 
Thomas Dekany said:
You need to factor in 2 things:



1 - Look at the amount of hours the top pro detailiers spend on full correction. Now compare that to how much time you spent.



2 - experience of those pro detailers, compared to the number of cars you have corrected.



I know it is easy to look at the best of the best and the results they create and say - I can do that! Yes you can, but one needs to be realistic about the time frame and understand that you are working on auto clear, I don't care what make or model. All clear is hard. Paint correction/RIDS removal is a time consuming process. Keep going at it and you will have a near perfect finish.



Lets see some pictures!
Click to expand...



Thanks for the wise words! Will have to get some pics up soon.
 
CleanRSX- Welcome to Autopia, glad you're findingit helpful.



FWIW, I virtually *NEVER* work the "standard" 2'x2' area. Just too big, at least when I'm using a random orbital.



Does the pad bog down/quit spinning/merely "jiggle" when you apply pressure? If so, maybe you need 4" pads (I've never used the PCXP).



You are applying some pressure, right? Just as I don't like the conventional wisdom with regard to 2'x2', I don't "merely let the product do the work", i.e., without applied pressure. I don't overdo it, but I do press down.



As noted by others, this stuff can take a *VERY* long time, even on a vehicle with moderately soft clear.



And silver can be tough! I have a number of silver vehicles and I spend as much time inspecting and gauging my progress as I do correcting.
 
Hi Accumulator, to answer your questions: yes I probably was compounding over too large an area so I will try bringing it in next time to a smaller section. The machine was surprisingly strong, didn't bog down on me at all (also a brand new machine). Here's a pic of the car, definitely not silver as Acura calls it! Also the shine is actually pretty good but my crappy blackberry couldn't pick it up in the photos (Natty's Paste Wax Red).









 
I wouldn't but any new product(s) until we get to the bottom of why your are not achieving satisfactory results.



As with most guys on the forum... I'm always available to chat: (805) 478-1658



Once we get you dialed in (if we do!) then I'm happy to share what was done to change things up. I'd do the back and forth thing via forums, but this past month I simply cannot get in front of the computer, even to send out invoices. Otherwise, the let the forum guys set you straight, but refrain from trying new pads and liquids until you can at least achieve pretty decent results.
 
Kevin Brown said:
I wouldn't but any new product(s) until we get to the bottom of why your are not achieving satisfactory results.



As with most guys on the forum... I'm always available to chat: (805) 478-1658



Once we get you dialed in (if we do!) then I'm happy to share what was done to change things up. I'd do the back and forth thing via forums, but this past month I simply cannot get in front of the computer, even to send out invoices. Otherwise, the let the forum guys set you straight, but refrain from trying new pads and liquids until you can at least achieve pretty decent results.
Click to expand...



Thank You! You are a true class act Kevin. Also a big thanks to everyone who has so far chipped in on tips and tricks that I will definatley use on my next attempt at tackling the car.
 
Hey, I know I am a little late to the party but I figured I would chime in since I own a 2006 RSX Type-S (Vivid Blue Pearl) myself. From your images it looks like your car is Dessert Silver Metallic, as you stated, not quite silver. The paint looks to have some nice gloss to it, and after reading what your using you should be able to get a nice correction with those tools.



The first time I tackled my RSX, I will admit that I take pretty good care of all of my vehicles and I had this one since new, but it still took me about 8-10 hours for what I would call a 99% correction. At the time I was using a UDM, 5.5" Lake County Orange pads and Malco Buff-Lite II.



I am not sure how much time you spent on prep-work and correction but it surely took a very long time for me to complete and I learned a lot here at Autopia as well. Don't let the results slow you down, with practice I am sure you will be able to achieve the results you are looking for with the products you have on hand.
 
VBPXer said:
Hey, I know I am a little late to the party but I figured I would chime in since I own a 2006 RSX Type-S (Vivid Blue Pearl) myself. From your images it looks like your car is Dessert Silver Metallic, as you stated, not quite silver. The paint looks to have some nice gloss to it, and after reading what your using you should be able to get a nice correction with those tools.



The first time I tackled my RSX, I will admit that I take pretty good care of all of my vehicles and I had this one since new, but it still took me about 8-10 hours for what I would call a 99% correction. At the time I was using a UDM, 5.5" Lake County Orange pads and Malco Buff-Lite II.



I am not sure how much time you spent on prep-work and correction but it surely took a very long time for me to complete and I learned a lot here at Autopia as well. Don't let the results slow you down, with practice I am sure you will be able to achieve the results you are looking for with the products you have on hand.
Click to expand...



Thank you very much! Its great to hear from someone who has worked on the same type as clear as mine. How do you feel in regards to paint hardness in comparison with some of the other cars you have worked with? Good to hear I have the right equipment with my current setup. And great color on your car btw.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top