Is this crazy or genius

Chopper280 said:
Stokdgs I used DuPont prep sol for many years when I was doing paint and body. The stuff couldn’t be beat!
I ran out about 5 years ago. I have no idea why I switched products. Sometimes the old ways are still probably the best ways.
Makes me want to check my cabinets that are full of the old days products. Probably no good. I’ve thrown out a bunch of it already.
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Chopper280 ---
Yes ! We had gallons of Prep-Sol.. It always cleaned up everything from before primer spray to before paint and after that, a new tack rag, carefully wiped so it didnt stick to the panel..
I was first the Apprentice and then the Journeyman Painter, so I have much experience as you sound like, as well....

Sometimes, I would use acrylic enamel reducer on lacquer paint for clean up, and lacquer thinner on acrylic enamel paint for clean up...
Long as you didnt get them mixed up, all was good.. :)

Saw all those candy paints and the more beautiful murano pearl paint.. Lots of extra Clear !!! :)

Wow - life was much simpler back then... :) Everything came as Factory Pack Paint from Dupont, or the foreign stuff (Glasso, Glasurit), etc., for those European cars, etc...

I got out of the bizz when they wanted me to use that nasty Urethane airplane paint.. That stuff was way too toxic for me..
Dan F
 
He makes good and valid points in the video. A bottle of Eraser that tipped over in a box eventually leaked and stained the box and subsequently the carpet underneath is in blue. On the other hand, I would question if Carpro would knowingly add anything to Eraser that would defeat it`s purpose in creating a clean surface for it`s coatings.
 
CarPro and gyeon (both Korean companies) source their paint/coat prep bulk chemicals from the same manufacturer (tac systems in Korea). The blends vary slightly by what dyes the retail companies mix in.
Both are good products but are not silly strong. This way pple cant do too much damage when using them.

Cheers

Sent from my MI MAX using Tapatalk
 
RZJZA80 said:
...I would question if Carpro would knowingly add anything to Eraser that would defeat it`s purpose in creating a clean surface for it`s coatings.
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I`ll admit that I think that about the different Coating vendors too. I can see why it could be naive, and with some advocating IPA (which I never find all that good as a Detailing solvent) I can :rolleyes: and wonder what they`re thinking...but still, if something compromises the selling points I`d think they could just recommend something else that doesn`t instead.
 
I have two (2) different body shop prep pre-VOC era solvents from PPG (Pittsburg Paint & Glass):
DX-440 Ditz-O® Grease and Wax Remover
DX-330 Acryla-Clean® Grease and Wax Remover

I`ve used them to remove OEM door hinge grease before waxing door jams and they work pretty good on vehicles with very dried-on wax left in emblem cracks and crevices, although it MUST be used judiciously on emblems attached with self-backed adhesives. Wish I could still get these solvents, but majority-rules public-induced legislation for health-and-safety and the environment take precedence over my detailing product preferences.

I find that 90% IPA is a cheap and effective prep solvent, especially in cool weather, as it evaporates nicely. The "problem" is that after HOURS of compounding and polishing, wiping off the TSO`s (Trade-Secret Oils) used as a lubricant and suspension agent in these polishes with a product that has absolutely NO lubricants in it can cause, as Accumulator has pointed out, micro marring, not to mention the abrasive micro-dust left behind from compounding and polishing. I think it is one of the reasons many top detailers WASH the vehicle again after polishing. I never have washed a vehicle after polishing (it IS sometimes tempting after using dust-prone M105), but then again I detail run-of-the-mill daily drivers, not museum-quality, concourse d`elegance-ready, 6-figure valued show cars (phew, what a mouth-full!). My thinking the McKee`s37 N-914 rinseless wash might be a good compromise and alternative.
 
Initially I wondered about the colors of the cleaning chemicals but figured the experts here would have seen issues if there was any. I still think the color in chemicals are leaving behind something on the surface but it doesn`t affect what I need out of my car.

*As a side note I use red Chem Guys MF towels and the red colorant definitely is left behind b/c my blue polishing pads are turning pink.

ks
 
Lonnie said:
I have two (2) different body shop prep pre-VOC era solvents from PPG (Pittsburg Paint & Glass):
DX-440 Ditz-O® Grease and Wax Remover
DX-330 Acryla-Clean® Grease and Wax Remover

I`ve used them to remove OEM door hinge grease before waxing door jams and they work pretty good on vehicles with very dried-on wax left in emblem cracks and crevices, although it MUST be used judiciously on emblems attached with self-backed adhesives. Wish I could still get these solvents, but majority-rules public-induced legislation for health-and-safety and the environment take precedence over my detailing product preferences.

I find that 90% IPA is a cheap and effective prep solvent, especially in cool weather, as it evaporates nicely. The "problem" is that after HOURS of compounding and polishing, wiping off the TSO`s (Trade-Secret Oils) used as a lubricant and suspension agent in these polishes with a product that has absolutely NO lubricants in it can cause, as Accumulator has pointed out, micro marring, not to mention the abrasive micro-dust left behind from compounding and polishing. I think it is one of the reasons many top detailers WASH the vehicle again after polishing. I never have washed a vehicle after polishing (it IS sometimes tempting after using dust-prone M105), but then again I detail run-of-the-mill daily drivers, not museum-quality, concourse d`elegance-ready, 6-figure valued show cars (phew, what a mouth-full!). My thinking the McKee`s37 N-914 rinseless wash might be a good compromise and alternative.
Click to expand...

I use the McKee`s at paint prep ratio for my first wipe down to remove the majority of everything left behind after polishing. It has great lubricants. It also flashes fairly slowly, but completely.

I alway do a final wipe with a dedicated panel wipe product before coating though. I coat ever car I do and would really hate to see a coating fail because I only used this to prep the paint before coating. One of these times I`m going to have to go ahead and give it A shot.

When you buy 914 by the gallon it makes the cost of using it as a paint prep one of the least expensive.
 
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