Is the PC 7424 the most durable detailing tool?

G

gmblack3

New member
I have been reading about how some folks think that using a PC with "excessive" pressure will cause the machine to fail.

Here is the story of my PC:

I have a 4 yr old PC that has got a good 2 years of use. I have used this PC since December to polish 20-25 cars using the KBM method. I have applied a lot of pressure, so much that the pad has actually spun backwards. (not something that I recommend)

I did buy another 7424 as a backup 2 months ago as if the old one did break I did not want to be without a PC in the middle of a detail. I used the new 7424 on one car and then mounted a BP for a 4" pad on it.

I continued to use the old PC till I just purchased the new 7424XP and have used that on the last 2-3 cars. I kind of like the new one, but IMO it does have more vibes along with the more powerful motor.

But now I am tempted to take the old PC out of my bag and use it till it dies.

How many more cars do you think I can polish with the old PC? I'm going to guess it will last till the end of the year. Which if I stay busy will be at least 30 more cars getting full corrections.

As you may or may not have noticed, 80-90% of the cars I detail get a full correction where I usually have 8 hours of paint polishing alone.

So if anybody was going to break the shaft on a PC, I would think that I would be on that list. But my 4 yr old PC with 2 years of regular use and 6 months of KBM use is still running fine.

So has anybody ever broke a PC 7424/7336?
 
gmblack3 said:
So has anybody ever broke a PC 7424/7336?
Click to expand...

Nope.

My experience is almost exactly like yours. Owned the machine for 4 years, 2 years+/- heavy use, KBM heavy pressure last 6-7 months.

I've seen no failure, no overheating, no problems. This is one tough machine. I've used Porter-Cable machines for years... Drills, Saws, Routers....

They are absolutely bullet-proof.

A lot of times, when I'm working and someone sees the brand I'm using, they'll say "I see you use the best!";)

I'm a firm believer.:thumbup:
 
My PC quit a little past the one year mark, but PC repaired it under warranty at a shop in town. The had to replace the switch and something else, but it ran better than brand new when I got it back and I use it much more than the Flex (bought to replace the Makita I didn't use)
 
I use a G110, pad primed with M105 or M205, usually using 4" LC Pads but sometimes even using the 6" Megs Pads (W8006).

They 8006 pads have a tendency to bod down my G110 at speed setting 5 after using it for a while, so that is why I often stick with the 4" pads.

I've had my G110 for about a year and a bit and I've polished about 20 cars in that time (I'm a weekend hack only).

Lately, I've been using KBM (heavy pressure - but still rotating) and I have had NO problems thus far. Frankly, I don't expect to have any considering I don't do nearly the work you guys do.

In any event, very informative thread Bryan. Thank you.
 
I have sold hundreds of the Meguiar's G100 versions of these machines. They have an extremely good track record. The most abuse they seem to encounter is in the electrical cord (guys seem to bend them all sorts of ways). As for the mechanical quality, they certainly are durable as anything out there.

gmblack3 said:
... I have applied a lot of pressure, so much that the pad has actually spun backwards. (not something that I recommend)
Click to expand...

It actually takes almost no pressure to do this.
I can easily cause the pad to spin backwards with any speed setting, and the lightest touch imaginable. All it takes is a concentration of the machine movement, overall weight, and applied pressure to a small area.

To put it another way, if there is enough friction present to stop the random rotation of the attached buffing pad or sandpaper disc, then the eccentric orbit takes over.

I have already covered this in the "paper". Here are the diagrams that will be used:

reverse-rotation1.jpg


reverse-rotation2.jpg


reverse-rotation3.jpg


reverse-rotation4.jpg


I hope these make sense.
 
Thanks Kevin!

It is harder to get the pad to stop spinning on a flat surface. We all know that curved areas where 2 panels meet it is very easy to get the pad to stop spinning.
 
Hey Kevin,

I hope you are creating a "Cliff's Notes" version of the paper for some of the "intellectually challenged" like myself!!! LOL

If that was an example of the simplified version, then might I suggest "the super dumb guy" version? :D:D:D:D
 
Kevin Brown said:
Oh no!

I was hoping that the graphics would help, not make things more difficult to understand... Yikes!

I may be in deep trouble on this...:banghead:
Click to expand...

Nah, your fine.

As a general rule, I'm not too bright but when it comes to detailing I'm especially slow.

The average schmuck is much better off than I am!!! :biggrin:
 
I been going to the Pawn Shop for years and getting my PC's there dirt cheap ( Under 40 bucks), after that I beat the living heck out of them.......:D
 
I've had my PC since April 06', had to get the cord replaced in July 07' and again in June 09'. Both were like $10-$15 repairs done at a local hardware shop. I beat the crap outta my PC, dropping it, running it for 6 hours or more straight on those awful polishing marathons, etc. I detail a few cars a week in the warmer weather, FYI, and now a days I am using my Makita for the first pass on the heavier defects (which I greatly prefer using overall).

It has held up like a champ thus far, my POS UDM died on me this spring after less than two years of use, I just trashed it.

Edit: The only other detailing tool that has lasted me longer than the PC has been our 12 gallon Shop Vac, which we have had for over a decade.
 
Out of all the tools I have the PC has been the most durable. I have the G100 (Meguiars labeled G100, but same as the PC) and I have run it over, dropped it, ect, and never had a problem. I cannot say the same about various angle grinders (rotaries) I have used.
 
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