Iron X Paste

A

Astouffer512

Member
Again another newbie detailer question.

Why not much talk about iron x paste. To me the idea sounds like a winner. Being able to smear the product in and really have a good dwell time seems like a real win to me


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I love the Iron-X Paste, but for the most part, it doesn`t get talked about that much because the majority of people want to spray on an iron remover that cuts through grease and grime which equals saved time. Iron-X paste is great, but it is not for the one who is looking to save time.
 
Good pretty much for the inside of wheels that have never been cleaned IMO, otherwise spray Iron-X works well enough.
 
TheMeanGreen said:
I love the Iron-X Paste, but for the most part, it doesn`t get talked about that much because the majority of people want to spray on an iron remover that cuts through grease and grime which equals saved time..
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Quick kinda-off-topic :o Q: Why use a Ferrous Contamination Remover on grease/grime?
 
Accumulator said:
Quick kinda-off-topic :o Q: Why use a Ferrous Contamination Remover on grease/grime?
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Thinking he means road film. You got a thick layer of grease and grime you got bigger problem’s than iron contaminates... like you park in a MckyD’s dumpster



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Coatings=crack said:
Thinking he means road film. You got a thick layer of grease and grime you got bigger problem’s than iron contaminates... like you park in a MckyD’s dumpster..
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Heh heh, my knee-jerk response is to say..."what?!? Same Question...why use that for that?"

I haven`t touched my Ferrous Contamination Product (ValuGard`s "B") since the last time I bought a vehicle.

My one experience with Iron-X (forget which version but it wasn`t a "paste" it was a kinda-thick liquid) wasn`t anything great, didn`t impress me as being any better than the "B" other than the color-indicator feature, and I`ve never touched it since..probably dried out by now.

And yeah, my wheels are all fine without using such stuff, even after decades of use and 6-figure miles. Eh, I know that plenty of people use those products regularly, and OK whatever works for you, but I just don`t get it.
 
Accumulator said:
Heh heh, my knee-jerk response is to say..."what?!? Same Question...why use that for that?"

I haven`t touched my Ferrous Contamination Product (ValuGard`s "B") since the last time I bought a vehicle.

My one experience with Iron-X (forget which version but it wasn`t a "paste" it was a kinda-thick liquid) wasn`t anything great, didn`t impress me as being any better than the "B" other than the color-indicator feature, and I`ve never touched it since..probably dried out by now.

And yeah, my wheels are all fine without using such stuff, even after decades of use and 6-figure miles. Eh, I know that plenty of people use those products regularly, and OK whatever works for you, but I just don`t get it.
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You need to take into consideration that your vehicle is well maintained. If you were actually detailing other peoples vehicles, you would understand that most vehicles are not even remotely well maintained and products like this are needed.
 
Depends on where your from too. My car probably hadnt had any maintenance done on paint before i bought (i got it a year old). Bought a year later i prepped for paint and nothing.

I know thats a could thing... no ferrous contaminants but damn i wanted to see the blood! I tried Iron X, Griots fallout, megs ultimate..... nothing....


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I`ve had a bottle of paste for a couple years now. Love having it for white or silver cars. It`s great to spot treat the stubborn rust specks that the spray doesn`t get off. I`ll do a lap around the car after washing and put a drop of paste on each spot, by the time I make my way around I can simply wipe off all the spots
 
Dr Oldz said:
You need to take into consideration that your vehicle is well maintained. If you were actually detailing other peoples vehicles, you would understand that most vehicles are not even remotely well maintained and products like this are needed.
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Noting that I had a used-car dealership for years (where I/we got really awful cars very, very nice as a matter of course) and do know from how other people keep stuff ;) ....I`d assumed that we were discussing neglected vehicles being done by Pros; I just don`t see why people use Ferrous Contamination Removers (whether IronX or "B" or any of the others on the market) for jobs other than removing Ferrous Contamination.

I degrease stuff with degreasers; I remove Ferrous Contamination with products made specifically for that. I don`t use those products for other jobs nor for the *same types of jobs*.

Oh gee, I bet I sound like a [jerk] belaboring this point, but it sounds so, uhm...off-label to me!
 
ShaneB said:
I`ve had a bottle of paste for a couple years now. Love having it for white or silver cars. It`s great to spot treat the stubborn rust specks that the spray doesn`t get off. I`ll do a lap around the car after washing and put a drop of paste on each spot, by the time I make my way around I can simply wipe off all the spots
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Now *THAT* is exactly what I`d expect people to do with products like this! Good on you for doing it right instead of just reaching for clay.
 
Accumulator said:
Noting that I had a used-car dealership for years (where I/we got really awful cars very, very nice as a matter of course) and do know from how other people keep stuff ;) ....I`d assumed that we were discussing neglected vehicles being done by Pros; I just don`t see why people use Ferrous Contamination Removers (whether IronX or "B" or any of the others on the market) for jobs other than removing Ferrous Contamination.

I degrease stuff with degreasers; I remove Ferrous Contamination with products made specifically for that. I don`t use those products for other jobs nor for the *same types of jobs*.

Oh gee, I bet I sound like a [jerk] belaboring this point, but it sounds so, uhm...off-label to me!
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I get what your saying and ageee 100%. But if you can get a product to do multiple jobs even if off label then it’s a time saver. For example, personally I will use Iron X b4 I wash a vehicle. I find it just as effective if not better at removing iron then using on a washed vehicle for two reasons... 1) it clings a bit better and doesn’t dry as fast 2) IX is really effective at removing traffic film.

Now IX isn’t what I use to remove traffic film and I wouldn’t use it for just that but sometimes you can kill 2 birds with one stone if you get what I’m saying. I believe that was the point the above was trying to make altho I could have taken it wrong.
 
Dr Oldz- If the products work well off-label then OK :D I just tend to go the other way.

Heh heh, sounds like you do too and I think we might`ve just misunderstood each other.

Interesting about the IronX working so well on traffic film...I never would`ve even discovered that since I`ve basically internalized the ValuGard/FK approach of "alkaline, then acidic, then neutral product sequence".

Eh, guess I`m just temperamentally inclined towards dedicated products/inviolate process sequencing. I still scratch my head over all the things people use WD40 for besides, well...Water Dispersal, even though it unquestionably does do those other things just fine.
 
Funny you mentioned WD-40.... seems when I tell people about the water dispersal they say “that stuff can do everything” when that it’s intended use. Not really a good lubricant like people think it is....



anyway now I’m way off topic here. Back to the scheduled program.
 
Speaking of back to the regularly scheduled programming....(and note, I almost always enjoy when threads go a little off topic, I learn a lot from you old timers)

But as I was saying...if the paste version is so good, why dont more vendors carry it? I`ll assume the simple answer is just plain supply and demand?

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Dr Oldz said:
Funny you mentioned WD-40.... seems when I tell people about the water dispersal they say “that stuff can do everything” when that it’s intended use. Not really a good lubricant like people think it is....
anyway now I’m way off topic here. Back to the scheduled program.
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Well I will continue the off-topic about WD-40:
Dr. Oldz, you are correct, to some degree. One place this "lubricant" should absolutely NOT be used is plastic or non-metal bearings or slides. It will gum them up. A MUCH better alternative is 3-in-1 oil. I was told this from a plastic bearing manufacturer rep who stated that more plastic bearings (like acetyl, Teflon, UHMW, phenolic) are ruined by well-intentioned maintenance personnel "misusing" it as a lube for such bearings and slides. So resist the inclination to spray your garage door slide with WD-40. Now, using WD-40 for removing tar specks or concrete dots from painted vehicle body panels, well you decide...
 
As mentioned if you have a high amount of bonded iron particals it`s much stronger cause of the little higher concentration of the iron remover parts but especially the longer dwell time from it. And as accumulator mentioned with the ABC approach a degreaser first to uncover the iron particals is a benefit. I personally use a tar remover too before going after the ferrous metall. This is cause tar and some of the material from the brake pads IME attach easier on these particals. So an alkaline degreaser and then a tar remover and followed by an iron remover. The iron remover I use for the bad ones is an acid gel cleaner. Same princible as the IronX Paste with a thick gel for getting a longer dwell time. Acid is usually a very economical way to remove iron particals and can be used on the paint too just don`t use it on the glass. The huge benefit with the color changing iron removers is that you see how it reacts. But also an easy way for you to see if and how much of the iron particals you have. I also do a quick blowdry with the leafblower between every step and also after every round if more than 1 is needed. If you do a control application on small sections where you had a lot of the bleeding effect you also see if you got everything with the first application. With this you will also be seeing how effective the iron remover you go with is. Cause some can have a great bleeding effect but that don`t means they are effective as some others can be. Carpro IronX is a great benchmarking product for iron removers as it`s one of the most effective ones out there. So if you find an iron remover that actually desolves iron particals better than the IronX you have an awesome iron remover. Have been thinking on getting the IronX Paste many times but the domestic brand of the acid gel I`ve got is so inexpensive and effective so I put it off to testing it out. But something like the IronX Paste would be great to have in the arsenal when you get those badly neglected wheels and paints.
 
SWETM, your posts are some of the most informative on the forum. That said, I have trouble reading through them. Is there not a paragraph in there somewhere? :unsure:
 
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