Iron cut

N

ndtechie05

New member
What is everyone's experience with. I've been out of the game for a few years and have heard about these new iron decon sprays. Thinking about trying one.
 
AQuartz Iron Cut /Clean Shot is a neutralised acid salt that offer a safe pH: Neutral 6.5-7.0 chemical alternative to detailer’s clay that removes metallic particulates completely by using an acid salt solution on the paint surface the micro-fissures (‘pores’) are expanded by an exothermic reaction. This releases ferrous particles and caustic compounds that have developed in the paint's subsurface; the reaction agitates and loosens the particles allowing them to be rinsed away.
 
TOGWT said:
AQuartz Iron Cut /Clean Shot is a neutralised acid salt that offer a safe pH: Neutral 6.5-7.0 chemical alternative to detailer’s clay that removes metallic particulates completely by using an acid salt solution on the paint surface the micro-fissures (‘pores’) are expanded by an exothermic reaction. This releases ferrous particles and caustic compounds that have developed in the paint's subsurface; the reaction agitates and loosens the particles allowing them to be rinsed away.
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So you like it, don't like it, recommend something else? I need to get something like this also.
 
It's just a solution of oxalic acid, diluted and some soap in it.

The basic formula has been around for decades, just some new "marketing" twist on an old product that is not approved by most vehicle manufacturers.

Grumpy
 
Ron Ketcham said:
It's just a solution of oxalic acid, diluted and some soap in it.

The basic formula has been around for decades, just some new "marketing" twist on an old product that is not approved by most vehicle manufacturers.

Grumpy
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Why is it not approved Ron?
 
RZJZA80 said:
So you like it, don't like it, recommend something else? I need to get something like this also.
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It depends on your detailing goals. I use this as a maintenace product. It’s mainly formulated with Ammonium Sulfanylacetate (Rust Stain Remover Gel) and Alkyl Ethoxy sulphate (anionic surfactants, the red coloring is purly marketing) On a bi-annual basis I supplimented this with the ValuGuard Decontamination system



When I detail (rarely these days) a clients new, recently purchased vehicle or classic show cars I only used ValuGuard
 
+1 for the ValueGard A B C system! I'm not familiar with IronX or Wolfs Decon Gel so I can't put my two cents into those. However I used the A B C system for the first time recently on an obliterated paratransit van and that stuff worked wonders! Cut down my prepping time by at least 5 or 6 hours easily on a larger vehicle. I've heard nothing but good things about IronX and Wolfs though, just no exp with them.
 
My car is a 2011 and has yet to be detailed since I bought in September so I figured I would use one of these products prior to polishing and defect removal.
 
Potential damage to the resin system of the paint, potential to aluminum trim, potential damage to black exterior trim.

These type of products were approved and used by the vehicle manufacturers until the early 90's, and then they started to see damage to the vehicles.

No longer approved.

Grumpy
 
^ interesting. That makes me hesitant to use it then. What's the main purpose of these types of products, to replace claying? as a step before claying? I've never heard of them until recently, and it seems the majority of the detailers I know and online don't use them, so it must not be a crucial step in the detailing process.
 
Ron Ketcham said:
Potential damage to the resin system of the paint, potential to aluminum trim, potential damage to black exterior trim.

These type of products were approved and used by the vehicle manufacturers until the early 90's, and then they started to see damage to the vehicles.

No longer approved.

Grumpy
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Interesting...IronX is a very recently launched product (it only been around for 2-3 years)
 
Go back in the history of car care chemical companies and you will find a product that was called "fall out remover" or such. Grantize, Auto Magic, Pro, etc all had and some still sell it.

Nothing really more than oxalic acid (several names can be substituted), a lot of water and a small amount of soap.

If one really wants to go that way, make sure the vehicle is very cool and wet with water, not in any sun light and don't let dwell for too long.

Damage that is done is not normally observed for a few weeks or months, when it occurs.

Except on the trim.

The real damage when it takes place is later when one notices the clearcoat becoming cloudy.

Give it a few more months and the clear flakes off.

You folks have no idea of how often I was sent out by Ford, Chrysler, GM, Mazda, etc to dealers to aid their field service personel determine what caused cloudy clears or discolored trim on customers cars, only to find that one of these oxalic acid products had been used during its life.

There are several grades of oxalic available to blenders, and if the percentage is correct, blended with some other chemicals, no damage occurs, just that most blenders do not work with or have relationships with the paint suppliers or the vehicle manufacturers, they only follow simple formula's in chemical cookbooks.

Grumpy
 
You would have a better handle on what chemicals are used in this product (ValuGuard) along with any buffers.



I do know that Oxalic acid (or any of its synonyms ) is not used in the formulation of IronX
 
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