IPA Wipedown with 105/205?

Yeah, the Prep Wash *appears* to be an updated version of the old Hi-Temp #23 Removes All that I used to use back in the day (even the pn is similar), the most obvious diff seems to be the color. I revisited this product recently after SuperBee364 and NSXtasy mentioned it, and the new stuff works better than the old; in a side-by-side the newer version was *infinitely* superior. Even smells a little better, but not much.





snowskate said:
I'm assuming the term *clean* means it's a QD that provides cleaning power and lubricity without leaving anything behind or doing any filling of its own. So probably not FK425?

What else could be considered a *clean* QD?





Beats me, I stick with #34 for this :nixweiss
 
Accumulator said:
No, better to use a "clean" QD such as Meguiar's #34 for that; better cleaning and (especially) more lubricity. I generally use #34 for all my compound residue removal and also for milder product residue if/when I over-work it.



So #34 is used to clean polish residue, and then an IPA wipe is used to clean off the oils? Will #34 not clean the oils at the same time? Just wondering if there is any way to skip a step. I own 2 Hondas and sometimes I don't even like to stare at them directly for too long for fear of scratching them. I'm hoping there's a way to reduce the amount of times I actually have to touch these stupid cars.



Also, would Meg's Last Touch be a suitable substitute for #34? I have a gallon of this stuff and don't need to spend any more on supplies at the moment. Thanks in advance.
 
snowskate said:
I'm assuming the term *clean* means it's a QD that provides cleaning power and lubricity without leaving anything behind or doing any filling of its own. So probably not FK425?

What else could be considered a *clean* QD?



Quikshine is a good example; and my favorite. :)



As for prep wash, yes, it stinks (literally), but I love it!
 
PresdntialDtail said:
wow, very cheap too!



Yep. I used to use it as an initial strip wash too because of that, but it doesn't have as much lubricity as CWG, so I use that now first, then prep wash after compounding.
 
Nice to see the Prep Wash getting some attention; always happy to send some business Irene's way :D



markw78 said:
Sounds like you need a chainsaw :D



Heh heh, don't try mentioning that to Accumulatorette :bolt And heh heh, my trusty Stihl is over twenty years old now (not that one guy's gonna be taking down the trees in question anyhow).



Actually, we cleared enough already, we simply live in a woods and the tree-stuff comes with the territory. But it *would* be nice to be able to park outside...
 
mikenap said:
So #34 is used to clean polish residue, and then an IPA wipe is used to clean off the oils? Will #34 not clean the oils at the same time? Just wondering if there is any way to skip a step. I own 2 Hondas and sometimes I don't even like to stare at them directly for too long for fear of scratching them. I'm hoping there's a way to reduce the amount of times I actually have to touch these stupid cars.



Also, would Meg's Last Touch be a suitable substitute for #34? I have a gallon of this stuff and don't need to spend any more on supplies at the moment. Thanks in advance.



Bump for an answer! Hello?
 
Picus said:
Yep. I used to use it as an initial strip wash too because of that, but it doesn't have as much lubricity as CWG, so I use that now first, then prep wash after compounding.



Kevin, you're missing out! :) Fill up a garden sprayer with Prep Wash mixed 1:1. Pre-spray the car with it and let it sit for about a minute prior to using your CW&G. All the joys of PW with the lubrication of CW&G. Can't beat *that*. :D IMO, it's quite a bit better than just using CW&G. The chemical action of the PW makes the stuff on the paint come off super easy, requiring much less mechanical action (read: less chance for marring/abrasion) to remove from the paint. Just using CW&G by itself requires much more mechanical action to get the nasties off.



It seems like most of the cars I get have dried up wax in every nook and cranny. Using Prep Wash on these areas as part of the pre-polish wash has turned this from being a huge PITA to a two or three minute no-biggie.
 
mikenap said:
So #34 is used to clean polish residue, and then an IPA wipe is used to clean off the oils?



Correct.



Will #34 not clean the oils at the same time?



No, it's not *NEARLY* potent enough of a cleaner for that.



Just wondering if there is any way to skip a step. I own 2 Hondas and sometimes I don't even like to stare at them directly for too long for fear of scratching them. I'm hoping there's a way to reduce the amount of times I actually have to touch these stupid cars.



This isn't a place to skip a step. Once things are clean you shouldn't have any marring issues from these sorts of wipedowns anyhow.



Also, would Meg's Last Touch be a suitable substitute for #34? I have a gallon of this stuff and don't need to spend any more on supplies at the moment..



No, AFAIK they're completely different products, the #34 is kinda unique as QDs go and I dunno of anything that's a direct substitute for it.
 
SuperBee364 said:
Kevin, you're missing out! :) Fill up a garden sprayer with Prep Wash mixed 1:1. Pre-spray the car with it and let it sit for about a minute prior to using your CW&G. All the joys of PW with the lubrication of CW&G. Can't beat *that*. :D IMO, it's quite a bit better than just using CW&G. The chemical action of the PW makes the stuff on the paint come off super easy, requiring much less mechanical action (read: less chance for marring/abrasion) to remove from the paint. Just using CW&G by itself requires much more mechanical action to get the nasties off.



It seems like most of the cars I get have dried up wax in every nook and cranny. Using Prep Wash on these areas as part of the pre-polish wash has turned this from being a huge PITA to a two or three minute no-biggie.



Interesting idea. I will try it. One thing that springs to my mind, though - usually if I am stripping a car I am correcting it. Not that IU want to induce marring, but on the off chance I do induce some light marring I am about to remove it anyway.



As for dried wax; yes - prep wash eats it right up!
 
How about prep wash through a Gilmour after compounding to remove dust? I usually just foam the car and then rinse it off. If prep wash can remove polish residue and old wax out of cracks without any sort of rubbing I would be sold.



That would save me some time going around and removing all that dried on crap with a microfiber.
 
Jason M said:
How about prep wash through a Gilmour after compounding to remove dust? I usually just foam the car and then rinse it off. If prep wash can remove polish residue and old wax out of cracks without any sort of rubbing I would be sold.



That would save me some time going around and removing all that dried on crap with a microfiber.



That's exactly what I do now. Generally my process is:



cwg in high dilution to strip

clay compound, etc.

prep wash via foam gun, pw (I use a cr spotless)

goodtimes.
 
Accumulator said:








This isn't a place to skip a step. Once things are clean you shouldn't have any marring issues from these sorts of wipedowns anyhow.



I'm not trying to be argumentative, but the respray on the front portion of my wife's black Civic is so soft that ANY MF towel in my collection will scratch it in certain areas. I think part of that also may be that I was using an IPA wipe to also remove residue, and it was causing the towels to sort of stick on the paint. But if Prep Wash removes filler oil AND residue like the TOL product description states, wouldn't this product allow me to skip a step? In other words, would the Prep Wash take the place of both #34 for residue removal and an IPA wipe for oil removal?
 
JuneBug said:
What about just using Prep Sol after polishing?



Some people argue that PrepSol/etc. is awfully harsh for non-bodyshop uses like that. Not that *I* have ever had a problem with such solvents and I used them frequently for stuff that didn't require lubricity.



BTW, I was just reading another thread and it got me wondering, which polisher are you using these days?


mikenap said:
I'm not trying to be argumentative, but the respray on the front portion of my wife's black Civic is so soft that ANY MF towel in my collection will scratch it in certain areas. I think part of that also may be that I was using an IPA wipe to also remove residue, and it was causing the towels to sort of stick on the paint. But if Prep Wash removes filler oil AND residue like the TOL product description states, wouldn't this product allow me to skip a step? In other words, would the Prep Wash take the place of both #34 for residue removal and an IPA wipe for oil removal?



No worries, you're not coming across as argumentative at all.



First, I'd get that respray redone if it were mine, I simply wouldn't live with it. But hey...that's just me and I'm told I can be unreasonable about some things ;)



In this case, the Prep Wash *might* help if you can use it in a touchless manner if you spray it on and then spray on, say...a deionized water rinse (which you could then blow off with compressed air).



But unless you're gonna go through all that (i.e., if you're gonna be touching that stupid-soft paint anyhow), then I'd rather have the lubricity of #34 helping out when removing (potentially abrasive) polish residue.



I do sympathize with your plight...not being able to rub with even a soft MF (have you tried super-plush high-end ones?) would be a huge factor!
 
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