Ipa 101

[agentxc_02]

I been lurking on another detailing forum reading about their techniques. I am looking to step up my detailing to the next level. What ratio of the ipa for the wipe downs after polishing. Will it help strip off old vinyl/rubber dressing on bumpers? Thanxz in advance for any help

 

[Rsurfer]

The common ratio for IPA use to be 50/50. Based on Dr. G comments on IPA, most are now using 25%. Car Pro's Eraser is good and safe cleaner.

I been lurking on another detailing forum reading about their techniques. I am looking to step up my detailing to the next level. What ratio of the ipa for the wipe downs after polishing. Will it help strip off old vinyl/rubber dressing on bumpers? Thanxz in advance for any help

 

[Todd@RUPES]

I been lurking on another detailing forum reading about their techniques. I am looking to step up my detailing to the next level. What ratio of the ipa for the wipe downs after polishing. Will it help strip off old vinyl/rubber dressing on bumpers? Thanxz in advance for any help

Adding more alcohol to the ratio will strip more stubborn oils easier, but the flip side is that it will flash off sooner causing some residues to be re-deposited on the surface. I tend to use 91% IPA and dilute 50/50 with RO water, which results in about 40.5%. This seems to be strong enough to remove oils while giving enough play time to reduce the chances of re-depositing.

That said, I agree agent that Car Pro Eraser works better and is safer.

For removing old vinyl/rubber dressings I would stick to an all purpose cleaner or specific product. IPA can/will remove such dressings, but I have seen it dry out older trim and leave it chalky/white.

 

[Street Dreams]

In the past few months I have began using different dilutions of IPA/Distilled water for my wipedowns when polishing.

I have found on soft clear cars, mainly non metallics that too much alcohol in the mixture can attack the paint and cause it to haze over just a little, giving it a dry and gray look. After looking at the paint under different lights, halogen, LED etc. you will find the clarity and depth you were expecting to see after polishing is not really there.


Too much alcohol in the mixture can also cause light marring during a wipedown, your MF can get grabby and thus result in further marring the finish, after you just polished it of course! Using more distilled water as needed will help spread the mist evenly on paint and not get grabby as seen with straight or too much alcohol in some cases.

My solution, have at least 2 or 3 different dilutions of IPA/Water mixtures to suit different finishes.

I use 91% Isopropyl alcohol in all of the bottles mixed with distilled water

My 3 bottles go as follows:

Soft clear cars, primarily non metallic black - 40% Alc 60% water

Medium clear cars, both metallic and non metallic - 70% alc 30% water

Hard clear cars, ideally metallics - 80% alc 20% water

I personally WANT to use as much alcohol in the mixture as the paint will allow to ensure im not filling and that real correction is taking place BUT certain finishes really react negatively to too much alcohol. This can cause the need for further correction steps to fix! If your using a lighter mixture of alc. and water do multiple wipe-downs to check for filling

... another solution would be to use heavy alcohol mixtures during the cutting phase of correction to ensure your not filling and lesser mixtures during the finish stages as to leave a clean, non hazed finish behind.

I brought this up because tonight I got a call from Sean at Premier Detail who is in the process of correcting a non metallic black Infiniti G35. Sean and I have spoken before about all sorts of stuff and I really respect his work and his dedication to correction. I could tell he was really frustrated with G35, he called to bounce some ideas and everything he had done thus far is similar or the same as what I would have done for that car.

He explained the car was in terrible shape, lots of correction needed etc. and as per usual with black infiniti paint it was non finishing down 100% as he wanted.

We went over the steps used, pads etc. trying to find a solution. He said the car still had a hazy finish left even after Menzerna 85rd on a soft finishing pad, both with rotary and DA machines.

I thought for a second and remembered when I had a similar problem with an older black Porsche. I asked him how much alcohol he was using in his mixture and he said straight!

I told him to cut that at least 50% with distilled water as to not dry out the paint and re-finish a panel. He texted me later to tell me the altered mix of IPA and water helped solve his problem.

Sometimes the tiniest variables account for the biggest difference. Im very glad he called as not too long ago I was in the very same position.

:thumb:

 

[Rocket]

That said, I agree agent that Car Pro Eraser works better and is safer.

Eraser is a great product. I know its more than IPA but it's well worth the money

 

[Concours.John]

My solution, have at least 2 or 3 different dilutions of IPA/Water mixtures to suit different finishes.


My 3 bottles go as follows:

Soft clear cars, primarily non metallic black - 40% Alc 60% water

Medium clear cars, both metallic and non metallic - 70% alc 30% water

Hard clear cars, ideally metallics - 80% alc 20% water

I personally WANT to use as much alcohol in the mixture as the paint will allow to ensure im not filling and that real correction is taking place BUT certain finishes really react negatively to too much alcohol. This can cause the need for further correction steps to fix! If your using a lighter mixture of alc. and water do multiple wipe-downs to check for filling

... another solution would be to use heavy alcohol mixtures during the cutting phase of correction to ensure your not filling and lesser mixtures during the finish stages as to leave a clean, non hazed finish behind.

I have had the same problem on old enamels and soft clear in the past. It took a little mixing (also tried backing down to 70%IPA for soft paint) but your exactly right. The biggest fear was filling using too light of a mix. It's all a learning game I guess.

I do prefer as you mentioned heavier mixes during the beginning of the correction.

Nice detailed response I wish I new it back then vs. changing IPA's and starting over.

 

[agentxc_02]

In the past few months I have began using different dilutions of IPA/Distilled water for my wipedowns when polishing.

I have found on soft clear cars, mainly non metallics that too much alcohol in the mixture can attack the paint and cause it to haze over just a little, giving it a dry and gray look. After looking at the paint under different lights, halogen, LED etc. you will find the clarity and depth you were expecting to see after polishing is not really there.


Too much alcohol in the mixture can also cause light marring during a wipedown, your MF can get grabby and thus result in further marring the finish, after you just polished it of course! Using more distilled water as needed will help spread the mist evenly on paint and not get grabby as seen with straight or too much alcohol in some cases.

My solution, have at least 2 or 3 different dilutions of IPA/Water mixtures to suit different finishes.

I use 91% Isopropyl alcohol in all of the bottles mixed with distilled water

My 3 bottles go as follows:

Soft clear cars, primarily non metallic black - 40% Alc 60% water

Medium clear cars, both metallic and non metallic - 70% alc 30% water

Hard clear cars, ideally metallics - 80% alc 20% water

As owner of metallic car this information is very helpful.