IP & RMG mixed - amazing results

R

RAG

New member
I found a new secret weapon I wanted to share. Intensive Polish mixed with RMG is the best combo I've ever tried. Actually, I've also thrown FPII in the mix to soften it up a bit too. The RMG adds much-needed lubricity to IP, reducing the dust tremendously and more than doubling the working time.



Basically, my last 4 details have been major paint corrections...all on black vehicles, making excellent test "platforms." For instance, today (BMW factory paint) I used Hyper Compound and medium cutting pad for major defect removal. I then tried to remove the compounding swirls with my fav polish (OP) but not only did it not completely remove the swirls, I couldn't get it to finish down LSP-ready no matter how many times I applied it and no matter what pad I used. So I not only needed something stronger, but something that finished down better - so I reached for a pre-mixed bottle of RMG (25%), FPII (25%), and IP (50%). With a Green Propel, this pad easily removed the Hyper Compound swirls and left the finish Halogram free (tested in the sun) and 100% LSP-ready. This is the third time this combo has saved me an extra step - it is the strongest polish I have ever used that will finish down without halograms on black. On any othe color, 75% IP and 25% RMG with a green propel should produce a LSP-ready finish. And there is something about those green propels...they finish down about as well as anything...not really what I'd call "compounding" pads though.



Give it a try and you will see.
 
I'll have to try PG with RMG - I've mixed Oc and OHC in with PG with so-so results, but maybe RMG is the ticket.



I understand that manufactures design polishes in a specific way...to have specific polishing/working characteristics...but sometimes I think PG and IP were designed to be "dry-buffed" off - they begin drying and dusting almost immediatly when polishing. With that said, I have found the abrasives used in Menzerna's polishes to be the most effective and uniform of all the polishes I've tried - by far.
 
On Today's detail I pumped up the mixture by adding PG. Roughly...I mixed PG, IP, & RMG about 1/3 each. Again, amazing results and MUCH better working properties than without RMG. I was able to easily finish with this combination (with green propel) on a silver car by working thoroughly working with product (about 4 slow passes...rotary of course). Probably got 1/2 the dust I would have without the RMG!
 
I wonder how well it would work with 106FF? I may have to mix some up, just might be the ticket for black paint. :)



In fact, I have a red G35 coupe to do on Sunday and my plan (provided the paint is in the excellent shape he claims) was to use 106FF followed by RMG. :hm
 
Roadmaster...the aggressiveness all depends on how you mix it - that's the beauty of mixing. The idea is to tailor the combo to the task at hand...whether it be first step cutting or final finishing. IP and DACP are basically = in aggressiveness, though IP finishes down better...by far. For your referance...on the Agg scale, PG = 8, IP = 6, and FPII=3. My feeling is that if you add 1/3 RMG to IP only, it only looses a slight amount of potency...say a "5". Now if you mix PG, IP, and RMG together...you'd bee looking at about a "7".



With the green propel, I can easily finish on most black paints with an equal mix of IP, FPII, and RMG...and if the paint is a little harder or if it isn't black, you can generally finish with IP & RMG only (or very little FPII added)...depending on the pad and technique.



And keep in mind that when I'm talking about "finishing," I'm referring to a rotary. But I don't see any reason why the same concept wouldn't also work with a DA...the biggest benefit for this (probably) being longer working time and reduced dust.



Hope this helps.
 
RAG, very interesting results. I can see that combo working, although the experience would be somewhat different with a PC due to less heat generation. As far as IP vs #83, with a PC IP is less aggressive than #83, maybe a 5 instead of 6. #83 is stronger than IP but doesn't finish down as well.



Scott, give it a try! You go girl....er, boy...er, man! :faint: You know what I mean. :wavey
 
Alfisti...would you say IP and #83 are about the same (agressive-wise) via rotray? I have a gallon of #83 but rarely use it...as I didn't like it's working characterisitc via rotary, and via PC I felt it really "marred" the paint (though I don't really like any agressive polishes via PC for this reason). But I racall thinking they were about equal via rotary.
 
I mixed up a batch of about 70% 106FF and 30% RMG. I have a black G35 on Saturday and a red G35 on Sunday. Should be fun. :)
 
Let me know how it works out Scott...I never wanted to pony-up for the 106FF, but I just got a bottle of the new Blackfire polish to try when I ordered more PG/IP/FPII.
 
I mixed the original IP/RMG up and tryed it on albeit new paint of my dad's clubman

When shook up it looks like strawberry custard or yoghurt and with a 3M black pad, it worked lovely, very creamy and a bloody good shine, removed some marring really well and no dust, something I do have a prob with, with menzerna



Also tryed DP FFP and CK Yellow

However I'm not a scottwax, orosco or true pro with a rotary.

Getting there but think I'll just read and absorb the findings of them with all these combo's



First pic is dad's clubman with near new paint although scratched to buggery prior to me doing it (someone kept putting tools on it and wiping their hands on it while dusty)



What's in those small bottles you say?



Forget the first three, just klasse, polylack and a spray polish by omikron

The next with the pump spray on it is my latest QD



Makes rough paint smooth, smooth paint semi slick and maintains slick paint

Sprayed on panel, two wipes , one for each side of MF and all done



next to it to the right is IP & RMG or strawberry yoghurt as I call it, DP FFP and CK YMW is next (aka banana custard) and finally the Pink moose
 

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Used this mix today on a dark grey 05 Accord, I should have pics later this week. It worked very well removing swirls and leaving a wet base for some poorboys Ex which I decided to use again after 3 months. Thanks for the mix cause it helped me cut down alot of time on the detail since I was able to cut 1 step and reduce dusting. By the way just to make sure I did whipe an area down with alcohol just to make sure was I was not filling the swirls in and I was not.



Paolo
 
I used it on a red G35 and a black G35. Pics this week.



Works very well and noticably less dusting. Longer working time too. Removes well with OCW. :)
 
Scott, I too tried the 106FF & RMG for final finishing via PC on dark colors - talk about finishing down well...this stuff is insane! Now I see what all the hype is about the 85RD and 106FF polishes.



Also (Scott), I take it you use the OCW as a sort-of QD to aid the removal of the product, only your waxing at the same time? Good idea. I will have to try. I've clayed & waxed using OCW as clay lube, but for some reason I always feel guilty to applying a dedicated sealant in a separate step...though I doubt the clients would ever see a difference.
 
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