In for the long haul - maintaining daily drivers best tips

[cptzippy]

Been reading a lot and saw and old thread similar to this. What would be your regimen for keeping your daily driver looking good for the longest time?



How often would you correct?

How much of a difference would lsp's/permanent coatings make?

How important would paint decon/claying be?

How much effort would you put into marr-free washing techniques? (waterless vs say accumulator's no-mar techique)

What's the balance between keeping the car clean and inducing marring from washing?





TIA,

Tony

 

[clnfrk]

To answer your questions in order...



-Major correction (if needed) should only need to be done once. As long as your extremely careful when washing, drying,claying and waxing (basically doing anything involving contact with the finish) there should be minimal to no further marring induced. Any media used on the vehicle has to be totally free from contamination. Therefore, any future correction work should only be needed for things such as oxidation, pre-lsp cleaning and perhaps a few stray hairline scratches here and there.



-Not really sure about what your asking with your 2nd question, but lsp's are designed to prolong the life of your paint by providing a protective barrier from the elements, UV rays, and airborne contaminants. An added bonus is that it makes it much easier to clean. Roadfilm etc. is easily removed with minimal effort which lowers the chances of marring significantly since you can pretty much wash it with no pressure applied to the wash media. And, I'm not even going to go into the so-called "permanent" coatings. I'm sure everyone here would pretty much agree that its nothing more than a marketing ploy pushed mainly by new car dealers in the hopes of making an extra few hundred or even into the thousands from people gullible enough to buy into it. Think rustproofing or fabric protection.



-I'm not really sure what the long term results of not claying or de-contaminating the paint would be. I do know that it is mentioned that the particles can eat into the paint over time, but whether thats true or not, I cant comment on. I do it mainly because I like my paint as slick as possible and also to remove the small rust blooms that sprout up from time to time (my truck is white).



-I do everything possible to insure my washing techniques do not cause marring. I do not use the 2 bucket method however. I have stayed marring-free just fine using one. Nor do I use a grit guard. I do make sure that every last bit of loose dirt is off the vehicle with a thorough pressure rinse beforehand though. I do not believe in waterless carwashes.



-If everything is done correctly, there shouldn't have to be a balance. You should be able to clean your vehicle as often as you like without causing marring.

 

[JohnZ3MC]

Good looking for the longest time:

-use a good shampoo with lots of lubricity

-soft lambswool mitt

-wash with a light touch

-minimize towel drying: sheet water with hose and air dry (Toro leaf blower)

 

[Bill D]

Been reading a lot and saw and old thread similar to this. What would be your regimen for keeping your daily driver looking good for the longest time?



How often would you correct?

I just got a new daily driver last summer and so I always review these types of questions for myself. I'll share the basics of what I do.



As stated, correction is really only needed, in theory/a perfect world at least, when the paint has induced marring or other similar flaws. So basically, I do my best to prevent them from happening in the first place and hopefully if/when they do I use the old Meguiar's mantra of "the least aggressive product necessary" to remove the defects. I think a good rule of thumb is to do a monthly inspection to correct any defects with the expectations of finding very few if any- since we're all enthusiasts here

How much of a difference would lsp's/permanent coatings make?

Without question, LSPs make a noticeable and significant difference in the appearance and preservation. Just compare an Autopian -level prepped car to Joe Average's car in a parking lot.

How important would paint decon/claying be?

Paint decon and claying are always beneficial to bringing out the paint's fullest potential. It's especially a lifesaver in areas with measurable acid rain and contamination/fallout in the environment-which is just about any where. Clay is going to get those contaminants out of the paint and a three step ritual wash like Auto Int's ABC system is going to improve, even reverse the damaging effects of these contaminants.

How much effort would you put into marr-free washing techniques? (waterless vs say accumulator's no-mar techique)

Accumulator's non-marring washing technique is one of the best tips and practices I've ever learned. I have my own variances on it, especially since I use a CRS . I also still believe in picking sheepskin mitts ( or the material of your choice) like fruit, because not all mitts are manufactured the same. Same goes for MFS. For me the CRS is a blessing to help keeping the finish great with less effort. I also have to factor in the fact that here in Florida, roads are cleaner and the air is less polluted than when I lived up north, so that has a special impact on how clean my car stays too.

What's the balance between keeping the car clean and inducing marring from washing?

With proper wash techniques that work for you and superior quality materials, you can get the marring down to a minimal, to practical non existant level. Once you have your regimen down, it's routine and enjoyable.

 

[Accumulator]

Been reading a lot and saw and old thread similar to this. What would be your regimen for keeping your daily driver looking good for the longest time?

Ah, interesting to see how different people approach this. Here are my responses to your Qs:

How often would you correct?

I too basically do one "serious" correction when I buy a previously-touched vehicle, then I'll do *very* infrequent spot-corrections and occasional burnishings. Now that I have my wash regimen sorted out, I'm no longer doing post-winter corrections.



But I *will* do spot-corrections if/when I see something I don't want to live with, and those "something"s are usually so minor that nobody else would ever notice them.



On thing about my major corrections though- I sometimes stop well short of true perfection in a effort to maintain good clearcoat thickness. I'd rather have some leftover RIDS on a daily driver than thin the clear so much that I can never correct it again if something else happens to it.

How much of a difference would lsp's/permanent coatings make?

I haven't used the new coatings yet, but I do believe that stuff like OptiCoat is quite something. Just not something that *I* want to use on my vehicles (at least not as the overall LSP).



LSPs *DO* make an incredibly important contribution. From providing a sacrificial layer (think "bird bombs"), to keeping dirt from tenaciously holding on (and thus requiring aggressive wash techniques), to simply providing that "just waxed" look, LSPs are, IMO, essential. I've obtained never-waxed vehicles that were kept clean...you know those "you don't need to wax this special paint" sales-spiels..and those vehicles were in terrible condition compared to much older, higher-mile cars that were kept LSPed.

How important would paint decon/claying be?

If it needs decontaminating, then the decon is very important. If it doesn't, then there's no need to do it.



Regulars here know that I've been a huge proponent of claying ever since detailing clay came out in the early '90s. That said...



I spot-clay at every wash; it's my way of "cleaning aggressively". And I usually clay before polishing and/or LSPing. But I don't always do it (more of my Autopian Heresy ) and it's never a big deal. People kept vehicles perfectly nice for ages before we had clay, and I don't consider it utterly essential. Even though I go through more clay than six normal enthusiasts



And no, that "your wax won't last if you don't clay first" has never held true for me. Anyhow, far be it from me to discourage somebody from claying...just don't botch it up and mar your paint

How much effort would you put into marr-free washing techniques? (waterless vs say accumulator's no-mar techique)

Heh heh, I sorta get my own little spot at the extreme end of the spectrum, huh?!? Yeah...it's a pretty big production and I sure go through a lot of water and shampoo. Takes a while too, and it's harder work than running a few miles at a good pace.

What's the balance between keeping the car clean and inducing marring from washing?

I don't see it as an either/or type of balancing act because, since I use a "touch drying" technique (and I don't blot either...sorry), I have to get it perfectly clean or the residual dirt will cause marring when I dry.



But I guess it *is* an either/or in the sense that unless I can do one of "my washes" I don't wash it. So my vehicles can get mighty dirty between washes as I often have more important things to do. Not a problem for me, but it could be for somebody else since touching a dirty car will mar the paint.

 

[extrabolts]

Everyone is suggesting only one correction. I'd say one M105-type compounding correction for a used car is right, but many people on this and other detailing forums will polish twice / year. I typically polish annually in the spring with a full detail including stripping the paint, clay, polish, sealing wheels, etc etc - all the works. For a while I clayed twice / year, but now I'm down to just once / year with the polish. I've found that once the paint is clean, if you keep a good coat of wax on it at all times, your paint shouldn't get too contaminated if you wash every couple of weeks. I think maintaining your LSP is very important. If your wax dies off, and you drive around for say two weeks, your paint will get contaminated with junk to the point of needing to be clayed.





There really isn't any balance between keeping a car clean and avoiding marring. What we strive for is both - a clean, marred-free finish. I don't want to drive around with a dirty car that has no swirls, and I don't want to drive around with a clean car that shows swirls from 50' away. If I had to choose, I'd take a clean car with minor swirling that I could fill with a glaze or LSP. Technique and having down a good coat of wax make a big difference for washing. I used to create many swirls with just a couple of washes, now I create minor swirling over the course of many washes.

 

[Scottwax]

The thing you want to do is avoid having to do major corrections by washing your car properly, not parking near sprinklers or under trees, etc. If you have to do any heavy polishing more than once a year, you should take a look at how you are caring for your car and adjust as needed to avoid swirls.



As far as protection, find a product you like (best looking, easiest to apply, whatever criteria you use to determine "the best") and use it as often as needed.



Claying is very important, whenever the paint isn't glass smooth, you should clay it to prevent bonded contaminants from damaging the finish.



It is better to take any extra 10-15 minutes when washing your car each time than having to polish it heavily 2-3 times a year.

 

[Brad B]

It is better to take any extra 10-15 minutes when washing your car each time than having to polish it heavily 2-3 times a year.

I agree that this is the key. Each of us have our own ways that work for us, but all are proven successful. Research this and develop a process and stick to it.



A little tip from me, I use two lambs wool mitts to wash a car. A dedicated "above the beltline" mitt, and a "lower body panel mitt". The idea is simple: The top of the car is always cleaner. And this is especially the area that I don't want to scratch. So even though I take great care to rinse my mitts after every wash (and routinely in the washing machine), I keep the cleaner mitt on top so any possibility of dragging road grit onto the paint is even more remote.



Also, when washing and drying, learn to use a light touch. As mentioned, always sheet the car with a slow water run as a last rinse. This will remove over half the standing water. I prefer to use a laminated waffleweave microfiber towel to get the car 90% dry. I just drag it over the surface using only the weight of the towel. I then follow up where necessary with a waffle weave folded to at least half. I blow out crevices with a compressor wand.



Also, quick detail after every wash to add some protection and a little sparkle. Buy good towels. Avoid the cheapies.

 

[tom p.]

Scott and the others are making great points, Zippy. If you care for your car, aggressive sessions will rarely be required.



As the others have said, it's the weekly maintenance (wheels, body, vacuuming) that is critical. I'll also suggest the use of an outstanding LSP that lasts months and does a great job shedding dirt. It will make everything far easier. You will likely have to dedicate only one or two days per year with extended detailing sessions once you find the right combo of products and adjust your weekly cleaning routine to be gentle and refreshing

 

[Accumulator]

It is better to take any extra 10-15 minutes when washing your car each time than having to polish it heavily 2-3 times a year.

Heh heh, some of us need to take an extra hour or so, but yeah....

I don't want to drive around with a dirty car that has no swirls, and I don't want to drive around with a clean car that shows swirls from 50' away. If I had to choose, I'd take a clean car with minor swirling...

Different preference here; I don't mind if it's dirty for a while (as long as nobody touches that dirt!) but I won't have marring that I can avoid.