I'm wetsanding

Rask, I totally understand.



Please do suggest some pads for me to use with the m105 as my first step.



David chime in too! Please :)
 
solekeeper said:
Rask, I totally understand.



Please do suggest some pads for me to use with the m105 as my first step.



David chime in too! Please :)
Click to expand...



A 3 step scratch removal for me would go something like this. (may need to be tweaked depending on the paint)



  • M105 on the rotary with Meguiars Maroon Solo wool pad (or W5000)
  • M205 on the rotary with Meguiars W8207 foam pad (white/orange LC)
  • M205 on the DA with Meguiars W9207 foam pad (black LC)



Finishing with a DA should ensure a hologram free finsih....the last two steps go pretty quick IMO.







I'm also very interested in Davids process and I'm always open to new techniques. ;)





Rasky
 
I can sure imagine the right pad making 2-4K scratch removal by PC a piece of cake. Even 3.5" PFW pads can do 2K just fine (and on very hard clear too), they're just inefficient time-wise.



Yeah, the game changes...just think what a diff it made when 2K papers got nice and uniform and there were no more "tracers" to deal with!
 
RaskyR1 said:
A 3 step scratch removal for me would go something like this. (may need to be tweaked depending on the paint)



  • M105 on the rotary with Meguiars Maroon Solo wool pad (or W5000)
  • M205 on the rotary with Meguiars W8207 foam pad (white/orange LC)
  • M205 on the DA with Meguiars W9207 foam pad (black LC)



Finishing with a DA should ensure a hologram free finsih....the last two steps go pretty quick IMO.







I'm also very interested in Davids process and I'm always open to new techniques. ;)





Rasky
Click to expand...







Thanks, rask! Helpful as always!



Out of curiousity, do you think after the 2nd step, you would be ok say on your lighter colored vehicles? (Silver etc)

I'm going to ask Matt from autogeek what he thinks about these steps as well. I like various inputs. lol



And to think I just received a package from autogeek, lol. Looks like I will be pulling out the credit card again :buffing:
 
solekeeper said:
Thanks, rask! Helpful as always!



Out of curiousity, do you think after the 2nd step, you would be ok say on your lighter colored vehicles? (Silver etc)

I'm going to ask Matt from autogeek what he thinks about these steps as well. I like various inputs. lol



And to think I just received a package from autogeek, lol. Looks like I will be pulling out the credit card again :buffing:
Click to expand...



I think you will likely still have light buffer trails in the paint and it's just a matter of whether or not the finish needs to be 100%....in my experience that's pretty much the norm for most body shops. :D
 
Yea, to be honest many of these people can't even see what "we" see. Lol



But nonetheless, I want whatever I wetsand and polish to be flawless.



One more question, how aggressive is m205, say I get a car in, that needs a light detail and has very little micro-marring, could I just hit it with m205 then UF and have nice paint? I know the type of clear is a variable, but generally speaking I guess. I'm thinking m205 is kinda that slight cut, finish down almost perfect compound?
 
solekeeper said:
Yea, to be honest many of these people can't even see what "we" see. Lol



But nonetheless, I want whatever I wetsand and polish to be flawless.



One more question, how aggressive is m205, say I get a car in, that needs a light detail and has very little micro-marring, could I just hit it with m205 then UF and have nice paint? I know the type of clear is a variable, but generally speaking I guess. I'm thinking m205 is kinda that slight cut, finish down almost perfect compound?
Click to expand...



M205 on the DA using the KBM can remove light to moderate marring, depending on the clear of course (white, tangerine, or orange LC pads). You shouldn't really need to follow it with anything on most paints either. Some softer clears may get micro marring though and would have to be followed up.



M105/M205 cut will vary noticeably by the amount of pressure used and pad choice.
 
RaskyR1 said:
A 3 step scratch removal for me would go something like this. (may need to be tweaked depending on the paint)



  • M105 on the rotary with Meguiars Maroon Solo wool pad (or W5000)
  • M205 on the rotary with Meguiars W8207 foam pad (white/orange LC)
  • M205 on the DA with Meguiars W9207 foam pad (black LC)



Finishing with a DA should ensure a hologram free finsih....the last two steps go pretty quick IMO.







I'm also very interested in Davids process and I'm always open to new techniques. ;)





Rasky
Click to expand...







Hey Rasky, I am wetsanding a black mercedes right now (finishing with 2000 by sanding block, can i do a finishing stage with da and some mirak abrasives 3000??? or by hand only?) and all the steps you said i was about to do but the second step with m105 and orange lc pad, third step with d/a and lc blue hydro pad with 85rd? u think that sounds ok?
 
RaskyR1 said:
M205 on the DA using the KBM can remove light to moderate marring, depending on the clear of course (white, tangerine, or orange LC pads). You shouldn't really need to follow it with anything on most paints either. Some softer clears may get micro marring though and would have to be followed up.



M105/M205 cut will vary noticeably by the amount of pressure used and pad choice.
Click to expand...







Sounds good. Any idea where I can find out the info on the white, tangerine and orange pads? They all cut similar from what I understand.
 
sacdetailing said:
Hey Rasky, I am wetsanding a black mercedes right now (finishing with 2000 by sanding block, can i do a finishing stage with da and some mirak abrasives 3000??? or by hand only?) and all the steps you said i was about to do but the second step with m105 and orange lc pad, third step with d/a and lc blue hydro pad with 85rd? u think that sounds ok?
Click to expand...



Yep. Following up with the DA and some 3000 grit should smooth things out nicely and help remove any tracers you may have picked up from hand sanding.





I think your process should be fine as long as the M105 finishes down well on the second step. If not M205 or 106FA may be a better final step.





Honestly, I'm almost always doing a 4 step polish when I'm wet sanding...overkill? maybe...but I'm confident the finish is 100% that way. ;)



http://www.autopia.org/forum/pro-de...l-wet-sand-buff-rasky-s-auto-detailing-2.html
 
solekeeper said:
Sounds good. Any idea where I can find out the info on the white, tangerine and orange pads? They all cut similar from what I understand.
Click to expand...



Yes, they are pretty similar but having a nice selection allows you to adjust your process for different types of paint. Though for your situation I'm assuming you use the same clear on all the cars, so once you get a process dialed in you should be good to go. ;)





You can get the pads from just about any online retailer.



Detailed Image is where I get most my stuff.



Buffer Pads Products - Detailed Image
 
RaskyR1 said:
Yes, they are pretty similar but having a nice selection allows you to adjust your process for different types of paint. Though for your situation I'm assuming you use the same clear on all the cars, so once you get a process dialed in you should be good to go. ;)





You can get the pads from just about any online retailer.



Detailed Image is where I get most my stuff.



Buffer Pads Products - Detailed Image
Click to expand...







Yea same thing over and over. Just a new panel! Lol



So I guess I should go ahead and pick up m205, the wool.



Which cuts more, white or tangerine?
 
solekeeper said:
Yea same thing over and over. Just a new panel! Lol



So I guess I should go ahead and pick up m205, the wool.



Which cuts more, white or tangerine?
Click to expand...



Tangerine offers slightly more cut and is supposed to finish down better too. They are a little on the stiff side IMO but seem to work well.
 
RaskyR1 said:
Tangerine offers slightly more cut and is supposed to finish down better too. They are a little on the stiff side IMO but seem to work well.
Click to expand...









Cool.



So either the white or orange can work for my 2nd step with m205 then, right?
 
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