I'm disappointed w/ my pc results

fooked

AWD + 5k = :)
Hey guys, not sure if this is in the right section or not, so feel free to move it.

I've been around here for a while, mostly reading and learning. I've done basic detailing on my own cars for years. (Basic washing, waxing, interior, etc.) I just recently got a pc, and have been practicing a bit. I started picking up some jobs, just to make some extra money on the weekends for now.

I did a Mazda last weekend for a coworker. I was painted last year, and the guy left swirl marks, and scratches all over the place. I used the following:

Nxt wash
Clay
SSR2.5 w/ edge green pad PC
Ex-p x 2

I was going to go over it again with PwC or SSR1 before the Ex-P, but I was running short on time. I pulled the car out of the garage, and it looked great. It was partly cloudy outside, but there was still enough sun to look like all the swirls were removed.

I looked at the car today. He has it parked in the warehouse here. It looks terrible to me now. He seems very happy with it, but I stll see lots of very light scratches that didn't come out. I spent almost 4 hours on this car. Overall the paint still looks better than it did originally, but it still doesn't look good enough for something I would want to charge someone for.

I'm just disappointed with myself. I've seen the pics on here of what everyone can do with the PC, but I'm not sure why I'm not getting those kind of results.

Thanks for listening to me gripe.

Steve
 
It takes a practice to get the results that a veteran with 5 or 10 years of experience behind a PC is going to get. Don't beat yourself up too much. It could be that you are using the wrong pad or product or a combination of both for the job. Something I would suggest is that you invest in a pair of 500 watt halogen lamps so that you can check your work as you do it. Don't leave a panel unless you are satisfied that the desired results are achieved. Shade hides a lot of defects. That's why I don't like pictures of cars in the shade. I would rather see a picture in the sun that really shows off the work. Even perfect looking cars look better in the sun than they do in the shade. You can't tell if you got all the swirls out unless you check it under really unforgiving light. A 60 watt light bulb in the garage isn't enough. Even flourecent lights aren't going to cut it. If you want to really put your work to the test then check it out under the lights at a gas station. Nothing can hide under those.
 
Thanks for the advice guys. I was actually planning on picking up some of those halogen lamps anyhow. Sears has the 1000w tripod lamps on sale this week.

The car is bright red. Do you think the PwC would have gotten to those imperfections? I knew I should've done another step after the ssr2.5, but I was running short on time. Do you think I should bump it up to the medium cut pad (Yellow) or stay with the light cut (Green)?

I'm going to get the car back from him. And try to redo the hood and the roof. They were the most noticable. Do I have to do anything to take the Ex-p off before I polish again, or just go back to the ssr2.5?

Thanks again for the advice. Guess I just need some more practice.

Steve
 
SSR2.5 is great stuff and you CAN get away with going right to a Sealent. BUT and thats a big BUT .. It all depends on what results are you looking for. When Im detailing my car which is black. This is my regimine.

Wash
Clay
Wash
SSR2.5 (if necesarry)
SSR 1 x 2 (Gives the car a nice Deep Wet look)
PP (Gives it more clarity)
Ex x 3
Nattys Blue x3
Nattys Regular x 2
(I haven't posted any pic's just yet becuase I want to see Steve's (poorboy) reaction at the detailing day on the 25th & 26th) But I will leave you with this to think about. When you look at my car in the sun. It hurts! I think one could actually go blind! When it rains Its like there is a bubble over my car because Rain thinks twice about hitting my car!
 
The more I use the PC the more I lean towards the belief that you won't get out all the marring/imperfections in one pass. You said you spent 4 hours on the car. I'm sure not all of that time was dedicated to polishing (applying/removing LSP, other details, etc.), so I seriously doubt you had it long enough to really work with it like it needed to be worked.

Another thing - try not to be rushed when you do a detail. You need the time to go at it correctly and trying to fit a full day's detail into a 3-4 hour session is sure to get you feeling down about the end result. Patience.

Give it a little time. It's hard to pick something up and get it down pat right off the bat. Even Neil Pert had to start out at some point :cool

One thing I try to do is plan out my details or get them scheduled in advance enough time to start early in the morning. That way you won't run out of daylight and it gives you the time to really nitpick over the details.
 
one thing i can tell you is that after using a cutting pad with SSR2.5 , you really should go back over it with a polishing pad as the cutting pad will leave a lot of what you probably saw later. Cutting pads "cut" polishing pads "polish" ...I would go over it one more time with the polishing pad and at that point if you have the time use the PwC or SSR1 for a final polish with a finishing pad before moving on to the EX-P.:) I'm sure you did a fine job and as Jngrbrdman said you will get better and better results the more you practice...
 
fooked said:
I'm just disappointed with myself. I've seen the pics on here of what everyone can do with the PC, but I'm not sure why I'm not getting those kind of results.

Thanks for listening to me gripe.

Steve
Well, I've said it before and I'll say it again... a PC is a "polisher" to be used for light to moderate "polishing". It will not do what a high speed rotary "buffer" can do. Yes, a PC can do some fine work, and if you are persistent, you can do some exceptional work. However, a PC will not take the place of a rotary buffer. There are times when the paint will be in a condition that requires a rotary buffer... or one has to be satisifed with the results of the PC, as using the rotary buffer may simply remove to much paint to correct the defects.

Don't get down on yourself. This may simply be one of those situations. Of course, you'll want to investigate all the great info that the others have given you.

Good luck.
 
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