If it can't be corrected with PC and orange/yellow should I skip the Cyclo ...

Z

ZoranC

New member
... and go straight to rotary? In other words, if I have all three tools when I would want to try Cyclo and not just go straight to rotary?



Reason I am asking is I am trying to minimize spending on pads, eliminate overlaps. I wonder do I need yellow/orange for Cyclo, should I use just green/white with it? Or maybe not even green, just white?



What you think?
 
David Fermani said:
Yes - go for the rotary. Try a medium cutting foam pad and see what happens.
Click to expand...

In that case should I be getting any green pads for Cyclo? Or white ones would be all I would be ever needing on Cyclo under these circumstances?
 
One more vote for going to the rotary when the PC doesn't cut it.



But if your rotary skills aren't all that great (and that's no slam as I don't consider *mine* to be all that wonderful), switching from the rotary to the Cyclo makes for a good progression. E.g., you go over it with the rotary and a fairly aggressive product (say, H-T EC mixed with a little OCP or something), then you don't bother buffing of the residue, just go right over it again with the Cyclo/green/same product- no holograms, no problems, ready for the final polishing, which might take either the green or the white pads depending on how hard the paint is.



I use the Cyclo green pads more than any others. While the white "finishing" pads make for a good very light final polish, if your paint isn't too soft you might be surprised by how often you reach for the green ones.



Best time to reach for the Cyclo IMO is when you find that you *could* do the job with the PC, but realize that it's gonna take a while. NOT bad enough to bring out the rotary (or maybe the car makes you wonder about rotary-error-induced problems for some reason) but bad enough that the idea of all that PC-vibration turns you off.
 
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