I think I finally figured out this Megs #104 stuff

C

Chuckmotor

New member
When polishing a non-clear coated car, the polish comes off on the pad. My question is this: does the collection of paint on the pad make the pad unusable again, or will a simple wash make it ready for use on clear coated cars and other cars?

Also, would I have to change or wash the pad a lot during the process? I plan on using a PC.
 
You can use the pad over and over on the same car, or a car with no clear coat and is the same color, White White, Red Red, not Red White or White Red. Never use that pad on a car with a clear coat, use a new pad for cars with clear coats. Wash all polishing pads after use.
 
I think I finally figured out this Megs #105 stuff

I admit, I've struggled with it over the past year. At first, I had the flashing problems (like most everyone else), that I mitigated somewhat by spritzing the paint surface with detailing spray. Then I got into the pad priming routine as per KB, but still suffered with occasional flashing, and it still wasn't producing the results others were getting. Almost got to the point of giving up.

But, I recently purchased a Griot's Garage 6" DA buffer and the added power really helped get the swirls out. In addition, I sprayed an orange CCS pad first with Megs #34 detailer and folded it in, then primed with #105 and folded that in, too. Then added a few dots of #105 and went at it with speed 5 or 6. Now the stuff doesn't flash and I can work it almost forever with no further pad wetting or paint wetting. Occasionally, I'll blot the pad on a microfiber to soak up excess product.

Still dusts like a bitch, but I'm much happier now.

Jim
 
Dusting will always be a issue with M105, but as Todd has stated, the dusting helps the polishing process, so can live with it.

I'm glad it worked out for you.:thumbup:
 
What is this Megs 104 you speak of :-?







































J/K I once started a thread where the title was jacked up. Since then, I always use the Preview Post feature :Boxing:

Have you ever tried saturating the pad with 105, then just sprizting the suface with water occasionally :-?

I personally never use QD, althogh I have seen many that do with great results. I guess all that really matters is you found a way that works for you. Thanks for sharing what you have learned Da Rules!
 
So what machine were you using before? Did it not have enough power? Was it just using the new Griot's that made the difference or did you change anything else? Just curious as I'm closing in on purchasing a lower-end Porter Cable or Meguiar's in the near future.
 
When I use 105, I put 4 pea sized dots on the pad then make a compounding pass, then mist QD(P&S paint gloss non silicon formula) on the pad, make another pass. After this I mist the pad again and trowl it with a old microfiber pad to clean off the corrected paint and product and repeat until correction is acheived.
 
What is this Megs 104 you speak of :-?
Yeah...Oops!

Have you ever tried saturating the pad with 105, then just sprizting the suface with water occasionally?

Yeah, tried that and it worked better, but still had to stop and spritz every so often. Spritzing first with #34, then saturating the pad seems to allow me to work it without further wetting.

So what machine were you using before? Did it not have enough power? Was it just using the new Griot's that made the difference or did you change anything else? Just curious as I'm closing in on purchasing a lower-end Porter Cable or Meguiar's in the near future.

I was using a std Porter Cable machine; about 5 yrs old. The Griot's has made a world of difference with both #105 and #205. All I changed otherwise was lubing the pad first with #34 and then saturating with #105. I think the Griot's is superior because of the lifetime guarantee, plus you can get it cheaper.
 
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