GRocks10 said:
If I don't need to use the sandpaper.. then why was the pro using it? Would he have gotten the same results had he not used it? Boggles my mind why he even used it..
usdm,
Thanks for the info!
Well, there are two possibilities. As mentioned, it could be the "pro" was inexperienced at understanding the proper products/procedures for correcting defects in the paint, and got too agressive with the vehicle he was working on.
It could also be that there were some surface defects on the vehicle that really did need the sandpaper, and your less-experienced eye may not be able to tell the difference or evaluate just how bad (or how NOT bad) the paint really is.
Just remember, the key with detailing is to be UNDER-confident in your abilities. If you just go hog wild and start doing very agressive, dangerous things to your paint, you're going to screw something up, without doubt. You have to remember just how fragile automotive paint really is, and how quickly you can go from helping a problem, to making it much worse.
Start slow, and use mild products. Once you start to feel out just how much a simple mild paint cleaner is capable of doing, then move up to something more agressive like a swirl remover. While it does sometimes take "being agressive" to fix some defects, there are a vast majority that can be taken care of with simple, safe products. I think you'll be suprised at just how much you can do without having to use agressive products and procedures. You shouldn't fire a 12-gauge shotgun at a B.B. gun target, it's overkill.
Also just remember to keep your expectations realistic. There are going to be some defects that simply cannot be removed safely. Paint does get to a point where it is effectively "worn out," and a re-paint is required. If you've got too much REALLY bad dammage, you might also be at that point. Like I said, though, there's alot you can do short of taking that next step.
If I were you, just to start out with the bare minimum, I'd go out and buy the following:
1) Meguiar's NXT Car Wash Soap
2) Mother's California Gold Clay Bar Kit
3) Meguiar's Deep Crystal System "Step 1 Paint Cleaner"
4) Meguiar's Deep Crystal System "Step 2 Paint Polish"
5) Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax
6) Meguiar's NXT Speed Shine
Now, with just those six products, and a few microfiber towels and foam applicator pads, you can make MAJOR head-room on your vehicle. The products I've just described are readily available consumer-line products which are very safe, and effective. Just using them in proper order (basically as I have them in order in the list) will net you some positive results, even just by hand.
If you find that these products don't do quite as much as you'd hoped, then you can move up to some pro-line products, like the Meguiar's 80-series polishes, or Poorboy's SSR polishes. There are a plethora of product choices out there, in a wide variety of aggressiveness scales, and to correct different types of defects. In order to become truly good at detailing and get the results that "pro" you keep mentioning was able to achieve, it will take time, practice, and studying about products, procedures/methods, and different types of paint defects.
GOOD detailing is an art form -- most certainly NOT something that "just anyone" can do and/or be good at. Without serious dedication and hundreds of hours of hands-on practice, you will not be able to get out there and just work like a pro. Sure you can get good results, but that dedication and willingness to learn and be patient before jumping in head-first into advanced skills, is the key to true success. That's why, like I keep saying, you need to just get out there and get your hands dirty using some basic, safe, consumer-grade products. Once you master those and understand how they work, you can safely move on up to more agressive professional products.
:xyxthumbs Again, good luck and I hope you are starting to better understand that there is much more to doing this stuff 'right' than what you may have percieved.
