I hate interior glass

Bobby G

New member
by David W. Bynon

<font size="1">Copyright©, 1999-2002, Autopia Car Care -- All Rights Reserved</font>



Did you know a detailed engine increases the resale value of your car? It's a well known fact that people who take the time and effort to detail their engines also take better care of their cars. Mechanics, too, realize that a clean engine belongs to someone who cares for their car, and they will take the time to do the repair or service work correctly.



Engine detailing is nothing more than cleaning the exterior of the engine and the engine compartment, and applying dressing to protect and beautify the engine. It's very easy to do, and requires no more than 45 minutes to and hour every couple of months.



The first step in cleaning your engine is to remove the excess debris that gets trapped in your hood, grill, and vent openings. This is particularly true if you live in an area with four seasons. If you have compressed air available, this is the best way to remove old leaves, dead cats, and such. If you don't, a simple hand brush will suffice.



The next very important step is to prepare your engine for getting wet. You must cover all sensors, the distributor, spark plug openings and any electrical devices that have the potential for water accumulation (which could cause a short). Use plastic baggies to cover these items. Be sure to use tape or rubber bands to hold the plastic bags in place. You're only trying to prevent the majority of the water from getting in. It does not need to be watertight. The engine environment should already be waterproof. The baggies are just a precaution.



To loosen the grease accumulated on your engine and the engine compartment, start your engine and allow it to warm for a few minutes. The best temperature for cleaning your engine is warm to the touch, but not hot. If you're able to hold your hand to the engine without saying "ouch", then the temperature is just about right.



Now you're ready to apply your engine degreaser. I do not recommend the use of petroleum based cleaners in your engine compartment. While they quickly cut though grease and grime, they also deteriorate your rubber and vinyl components (not to mention what it does to our environment!). As an alternative, use a citrus-based cleaner. My favorites are P21S Total Auto Wash and Eimann Fabrik Engine Degreaser.



When applying your engine degreaser, it's best to start from the bottom and work your way up. This prevents the degreaser from dripping on you as you clean the underside areas. One important thing to remember, the engine degreaser will remove the wax from the painted surfaces of your car. If your get degreaser over-spray on your fenders, plan on re-waxing.



When you have applied your engine degreaser, be sure to wash any excess cleaner from the exterior painted surfaces of the fenders, hood and grill (some people like to spray these areas with water first). Depending on the amount of accumulated grease, allow the degreaser to soak on the engine for three to five minutes. Do not allow the degreaser to dry on your engine. For light to mild levels of grease, you will not need to use a brush on the engine and other surfaces. For heavy soil, you can use a long handled brush (parts brush) and car wash solution to provide additional cleaning action prior to hosing off the degreaser.



When you are ready to remove the degreaser, hose down the entire engine compartment and surrounding surfaces with plenty of water. If you're using a high-pressure nozzle, be careful that you don't get the nozzle too close to the covered electrical connectors. Allow your engine to air-dry for several minutes before proceeding to use a towel to wipe down all accessible parts. Remove the plastic bags. The heat from the engine will assist in the drying process, however, do not allow the engine to air dry, as this will result in water spots. When dry, start your engine and allow it to run for a few minutes.



When everything is dry and your engine has cooled, you should apply a coating of rubber protectant to your hoses, wires, and plastic shields. To add a quick shine and protection to the painted surfaces in the engine compartment, use a high quality detailing spray wax. We highly recommend Eimann Fabrik Clear Pearl. Just spray it on all surfaces, and wipe up the excess with a clean terrycloth.



Many car enthusiasts find that detailing their engine is the just the beginning to a long road of engine beautification. Other embellishments include polishing aluminum parts, painting key parts with bright colors, and adding chrome. Whatever you choose, make it your style and have fun.



I recommend the following cleaners and conditioners under your hood:



1. P21S Total Auto Wash

2. Eimann Fabrik Engine Degreaser

3. 303 Aerospace Protectant

4. Eimann Fabrik Black Opal

5. Eimann Fabrik Clear Pearl



<font size="1">Many of the products mentioned in this article are available from Classic Motoring Accessories and are used at the buyer's own risk.  Autopia Car Care is not affiliated with and does not represent Classic Motoring Accessories or the manufacturers of the products mentioned.  Other fine sources of car care products include Car Care Online, Griot's Garage and Top of the Line.</font>
 
We have a really good local detailer who will "steam clean" my engine for about $20. What do you think of this type of cleaning?
 
we'll see in spring... I recently bought myself one of those home steam cleaners (Ultra Steam Shark from Sears) so maybe it will do the trick on engines (mainly what I'm hoping it can do...)
 
I have a brother who works in a garage and they have a hot water tank hooked up to their pressure washer. It does a really good job on the filthiest engines, which makes me wonder how much more effective steam cleaning is over hot water?
 
Steam is great on old cars, but a real problem on cars built after 1989 or so. The reason is that the electronics on newer cars require many, many more connectors. When steam gets into the electrical connections, it will cause short circuits and grounding problems.
 
Hot water delivered with high pressure can play havoc with newer and older cars. Like DavidB stated the hot water can get into all the electronic gizmo gadgets stuffed into the engine compartments of todays newer cars and cause things to malfunction. The car may start up just fine and run OK but after awhile some warning lights may come on like the infamous "check engine" light. Or things may go on when they shouldn't. Like our rear wiper blade on the wife's van :(



Hot steam from a steam vapor cleaner is the better route to take because you can control the cleaning areas better. Hot water from a high pressure machine can also cause gaskets on older engines to become brittle, crack and then leaks start.



For the last 13 years I have used the old tried and true method of spray on and brush off. It takes longer but the results are better and far safer. It sure would be a drag to be zooming down the road at 85 mph and an electrical short causes the air bag to release!:shocked



Anthony
 
The best way I have found to clean/detail the engine comp. is to spray Greased Lightning on the engine, strut towers, everything except the alternator and fuse box... Let that sit for 5 mins, and then use a sponge/rag, a 5 gallon bucket of hot water, and a large cup to rinse everything off! Then just take a towel to dry what you can reach.



Works for me!;)
 
DavidB said:
by David W. Bynon

<font size="1">Copyright©, 1999-2002, Autopia Car Care -- All Rights Reserved</font>



If you have compressed air available, this is the best way to remove old leaves, dead cats, and such. .</font>



LMFAO!!!!!!!!! DEAD CATS?!?!?!?!?! ROTLFMFAO Now that's killer,,,,,91 Tks for the laugh Dave, I love it:D
 
Anthony Orosco said:
It sure would be a drag to be zooming down the road at 85 mph and an electrical short causes the air bag to release!:shocked



Anthony
That would certainly be entertaining but it would never happen.
 
What about Simple Green? Someone recommended that I use Simple Green to clean my engine. I bought a bottle, but it says "concentrated" on it. Should I use it in its concentreated state, dilute it, or not use it at all?

:nixweiss



Thanks
 
I know people who use it. It would not be my personal choice. It's very hard on rubber and it discolors aluminum and anodized parts.
 
Shiny Lil Detlr said:
we'll see in spring... I recently bought myself one of those home steam cleaners (Ultra Steam Shark from Sears) so maybe it will do the trick on engines (mainly what I'm hoping it can do...)

I'd like to know your evaluation of this. Did a search on "steam shark" and so far you're the only person I'm seeing who actually bought one. I too have noticed it and wondered how it would work for engine cleaning.
 
I just had my engine dressed by Ziebart. $49 but sometimes on sale for $29. Man what a difference, my motor & compartment didn't look this good the day I took it off the lot new. Extremely pleased.:)
 
trucxrule said:
I just had my engine dressed by Ziebart. $49 but sometimes on sale for $29. Man what a difference, my motor & compartment didn't look this good the day I took it off the lot new. Extremely pleased.:)



Did you take pictures???
 
I would like to hear any comments on how to make an aluminum engine top shine like a mirror.What have you found to be the best product and how do you apply it? Thanks!
 
I wanted to make my Cold Air Intake look like chrome. I don't have a before pic (sorry), but it was very smooth, but dull.



I used Mother's Aluminum Polish and a buffer. It took about 3 hours to get this look.



fc411606.jpg
 
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