I cant get the finish perfect

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uniquedetailing

New member
I just recently sprayed a trunk lid with ppg bc/cc layed down 3 coats of clear, let it dry 24 hours, wetsanded 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500 megs unigrit. i started out with m105 on burgundy megs wool, then ive tried lc tangerine, lc orange pads, lc white, used m205. menz spi, anyway i cant get a perfect finish still cant get rid of the tiny scratches, swirls. im even thinking i might be scratching the clear whwn wiping off. maybe the clears still too soft, im out of ideas, any suggestions thanks
 
i doubt that its cure time. might be more with how you mixed the paint? i have sanded panels after 4 hours and they come out near perfect after one pass, 2nd pass and i'm done



i dont use wool on anything sanded with 2500. i usuall go pfw and then finish with green lc pad.
 
I've had plenty of reshot panels (yeah, properly mixed paint, baked, etc.) that were too soft to finish out 100% for a while, but IMO it's the M105/burgundy wool combo. I think you need a better step-down from that.
 
It makes a very big difference is the paint was baked or not.



Usually most good shops have a spray booth that is also an oven and will bake the car at roughly 140 degrees for 45min and that cures the paint 100 percent.



Without a booth 24 hours is not enough of time.



- LI 85
 
LICamaro85 said:
It makes a very big difference is the paint was baked or not.



Usually most good shops have a spray booth that is also an oven and will bake the car at roughly 140 degrees for 45min and that cures the paint 100 percent.



Without a booth 24 hours is not enough of time.



- LI 85
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I'm pretty sure it's not 100% for 30-45 days, but it is definitely cured enough to wet sand and buff





I agree that it may have been too soon if it wasn't baked first. I've usually given 48-72 hours before doing it.



Using M105 and the Megs Maroon wool pads is great for removing sanding marks. The wool generates a lot less heat than foam and is much better option for the task. I will usually follow that up with M105 and an orange LC pad, M205 and black LC, then UF or PO85 on a blue pad.





You are using a rotary right?
 
RaskyR1 said:
I'm pretty sure it's not 100% for 30-45 days, but it is definitely cured enough to wet sand and buff..
Click to expand...



Right. You can often really smell the ongoing outgassing and the paint often gets so much harder that you have to use a different approach after a month or two compared to what you used right after it was sprayed.



I've only had one instance where it was initially too soft to finish out 100%, but that one time was a real PIA.



FWIW, the painters I use just nodded their heads and said "that's normal" when I discussed it with them.
 
thanks for info, i just painted the trunk lid to get an idea, ive let it sit now 10 days or so and it looks great now, next week im gonna finish the rest of the car, 1962 chevy impala in black, i know i will have my work cut out wetsanding and buffing. im using makita rotary, im gonna start with marron wool m105 after sanding m105 lc orange and go from there, ill post some pics along the way. thanks
 
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