How would you detail this engine bay?
- Thread starter B@tm@n
- Start date
Accumulator
Well-known member
B@tm@n- You could start by just doing some little areas that really bug you. Is that rustproofing overspray on the intake and cam covers (or whatever those pieces are, I dunno from that engine)? A solvent might be a quick and easy way to clean that up.
For the areas that just have regular dirt on them (e.g. around the headlights), some APC or even strong shampoo mix, and a boar's hair brush should work fine. Then use just enough water to rinse things clean. Most engines aren't all *that* sensitive to water, so as long as you don't overdo it in a big way you shouldn'thave any problems getting stuff a little wet. I'm sure somebody here will post something if your engine *is* one of those that can be sensitive in this regard...
You can piecemeal it with brushes/etc. just cleaning off the areas that really need it and expanding your efforts as time permits. Maybe that'd be a less intimidating way to go about it compared to a full-blown "let's detail this engine compartment like a pro would!" approach.
FWIW, I hardly ever dress anything under the hood as the products commonly used for that can attrach/retain dirt. If you just get it clean, polish/wax metal bits, and spritz some QD on things now and then, it oughta look a lot better with minimal effort.
For the areas that just have regular dirt on them (e.g. around the headlights), some APC or even strong shampoo mix, and a boar's hair brush should work fine. Then use just enough water to rinse things clean. Most engines aren't all *that* sensitive to water, so as long as you don't overdo it in a big way you shouldn'thave any problems getting stuff a little wet. I'm sure somebody here will post something if your engine *is* one of those that can be sensitive in this regard...
You can piecemeal it with brushes/etc. just cleaning off the areas that really need it and expanding your efforts as time permits. Maybe that'd be a less intimidating way to go about it compared to a full-blown "let's detail this engine compartment like a pro would!" approach.
FWIW, I hardly ever dress anything under the hood as the products commonly used for that can attrach/retain dirt. If you just get it clean, polish/wax metal bits, and spritz some QD on things now and then, it oughta look a lot better with minimal effort.
David Fermani
Forza Auto Salon
With engine off
Rinse the loose dirt
Pre-soak it with APC (I prefer Optimum Power Clean) and/or a solvent based degreaser
Aggitate with hand brush
Hand wash
Rinse
Repeat if needed
Blow dry with leaf blower
Rinse the loose dirt
Pre-soak it with APC (I prefer Optimum Power Clean) and/or a solvent based degreaser
Aggitate with hand brush
Hand wash
Rinse
Repeat if needed
Blow dry with leaf blower
Accumulator
Well-known member
rdorman- You like the Sonus MotorKote? I got some but never tried it after hearing how others didn't like it due to blotchy finish, etc. :think: I've used the Ultima Trim Sealant with wonderful results, but don't want to use that stuff on everything under a hood.
While I'm NOT a member of the WD40-haters Club, I don't use it for stuff like this because it's too messy for my taste and not what I'd consider a proper cleaner.
The advice that David Fermani provided is how I generally go about a "full job" approach to this. And yeah, Optimum's Power Clean really *does* work better for some of us than other APCs (I woulda been surprised except that I trusted David's recommendation
).
Be careful with brass brushes (not against them by any means, must have nearly a dozen of 'em), they can do damage if you use the wrong brush on the wrong surface.
B@tm@n said:
While I'm NOT a member of the WD40-haters Club, I don't use it for stuff like this because it's too messy for my taste and not what I'd consider a proper cleaner.
The advice that David Fermani provided is how I generally go about a "full job" approach to this. And yeah, Optimum's Power Clean really *does* work better for some of us than other APCs (I woulda been surprised except that I trusted David's recommendation
).Be careful with brass brushes (not against them by any means, must have nearly a dozen of 'em), they can do damage if you use the wrong brush on the wrong surface.
I have never had any issues with the trim and motor coat used as directed. Plus it lasts, doesn't attract dust like some other products and you can use it on every surface under the hood. It is what I use on all my daily drivers. I use WD40 and scotch bright pads to clean bare aluminum that has a brushed finish. About the only thing I use a brass brush on is unfinished castings. I find that combo of brush and brake cleaner (and some rags) works well.
Accumulator
Well-known member
rdorman- Thanks for the added info. Maybe I won't just toss that MotorKote stuff after all :think:
Alexshimshimhae
New member
I use APC after a quick rinse.
Scrub with brush similar to wheel brush and paint brush for tighter areas and let it soak while I wash something else.
after that agitate rinse and blow dry. Once dry I put down 303 on plastic and rubber.
Not sure what to do with metals...figure putting collinite Would be moot because of the temperatures an engine gets up to
Scrub with brush similar to wheel brush and paint brush for tighter areas and let it soak while I wash something else.
after that agitate rinse and blow dry. Once dry I put down 303 on plastic and rubber.
Not sure what to do with metals...figure putting collinite Would be moot because of the temperatures an engine gets up to
Accumulator
Well-known member
Alexshimshimhae said:
I've used BlackFire sealant on some stuff with good results. Lots of underhood bits don't get as hot as you might think and I bet 845 would hold up fairly well.
BTW, the Blackfire Gloss Enhancing Polish (or whatever it's called...) works *GREAT* on the satin black painted metal under the hood (and on the undercarriage too). I hardly ever use BlackFire for anything else, but it's my go-to approach for those bits. Even worked a miracle on the slightly surface-rusted brake drums on the MPV, and I do mean a miracle; I'd expected to have to paint 'em or something but the BF left things so nice I was satisfied with just using that.
Pats300zx
Super Moderator
I have a bottle of Sonus Trim Kote if anybody wants to trade. I could never get the hang of it.
David Fermani said:
This is precisely what i do, though I use Megs' APC+ (4:1 dilution). Before rinsing I cover up the alternator and sensitive electronics with aluminum foil or plastic baggies. After the engine bay has dried, I then spray the engine bay with CD-2.
Check out the relevant stuff listed here: Internet Resources for Newbs.
Since you're obviously a novice in engine bay cleaning, I think your main problem is:
1. You don't know where to start first.
2. Your car is not new (an 850i, i think) and you are concerned with water seeping into the electronics.
1. Cover up any exposed fuses, relays etc with aluminium foil. Akimel is correct.
If you suspect anything will be affected by water, just wrap it with foil. This'll cling tightly to the part.
Take your time. Your twin airflow meters shd be covered up.
2. Spray engine bay quickly with a high-pressure jet and avoid hard, driect pressure onto this "not new" engine.
3. Spray full strength APC onto entire engine bay area.
4. Being a novice in engine bay cleaning, why not try to "divide" the engine bay into 4 sections first?
Focus on 1 section first, and don't be distracted by the other sections.
Start with Section 1 and focus on this section only.
Use a variety of brushes to clean every single piece of stuff in Section 1 properly. Keep spraying with APC. While doing this, keep the other Sections moist with APC. If you wanna use WD40 since you mentioned it, you can. But it's very oily. After WD40, spray with APC to remove oiliness.
5. Spray off Section 1 with water, and proceed to another Section.
1. You don't know where to start first.
2. Your car is not new (an 850i, i think) and you are concerned with water seeping into the electronics.
1. Cover up any exposed fuses, relays etc with aluminium foil. Akimel is correct.
If you suspect anything will be affected by water, just wrap it with foil. This'll cling tightly to the part.
Take your time. Your twin airflow meters shd be covered up.
2. Spray engine bay quickly with a high-pressure jet and avoid hard, driect pressure onto this "not new" engine.
3. Spray full strength APC onto entire engine bay area.
4. Being a novice in engine bay cleaning, why not try to "divide" the engine bay into 4 sections first?
Focus on 1 section first, and don't be distracted by the other sections.
Start with Section 1 and focus on this section only.
Use a variety of brushes to clean every single piece of stuff in Section 1 properly. Keep spraying with APC. While doing this, keep the other Sections moist with APC. If you wanna use WD40 since you mentioned it, you can. But it's very oily. After WD40, spray with APC to remove oiliness.
5. Spray off Section 1 with water, and proceed to another Section.
BTW, Meguiar's will be released a new Engine Cleaner next month, which should be available at local auto stores here in the U.S (but heck if I know about Iceland).
proudpoppa
New member
almost looks like cosmoline on the intake runners.
With the engine cold... you can use engine brite... It's a foaming spray... spray everything, let sit for a few seconds, and agitate with brushes... rinse with pressure washer, and do it again.
blow dry if you have something to get most of the water off, and run the engine for a few minutes, the heat helps dry places you can't see.
Once the engine is cooled off, Dress, and enjoy it!
blow dry if you have something to get most of the water off, and run the engine for a few minutes, the heat helps dry places you can't see.
Once the engine is cooled off, Dress, and enjoy it!
I have heard a lot of folks say that but I have no issues... luck maybe? Either way, the process I described in post #5 turns out like this: http://www.autopia.org/forum/click-brag/132267-saving-my-daughters-car.html It would have looked better had I spent more time on the intake and associated metal. But heck, it is a 16 year old car with 200,000 miles!Pats300zx said:
Apollo_Auto
New member
gigondaz said:
That there is some sound advice
. I did an 850 some months back so I know how tricky the engine bay can be. Wrap that rascal
David Fermani
Forza Auto Salon
So how did you make out B@tm@n?