How Tough is Poorboys SSR 3 ?

HondaMan

HondaMan

2004 Civic EX magnesium
Got my SSR 3 today...it says "Heavy Duty Compound" and I'm now a bit worried that this is a quantum leap up from SSR 2.5 in a way that SSR 2.5 wasn't from SSR 2.

I want to work on my brother's scratch this week...it's a bicycle handle scratch on his 2004 Honda Accord...car is 9 months old...scratch is similar to the one I (mostly) took off from our sister's Honda Odyssey van, but then I only had up to SSR 2.5. That faded with 2 passes on the PC 7424, some Meguiars Scratch-X by hand, and a pass or two of SSR 2.5 by hand also.

If I use this SSR 3 should I just do it by hand? Should I use the PC and if so, what speed (I'll use a Sonus Orange cutting pad or Edge Blue polishing pad)?

We're talking a few pencil-line scratches so it's not like I'm doing a whole panel and I really need the PC 7424. I could do it by hand. But I'll use the PC 7424 if that is what is needed to penetrate with SSR 3 (assuming it doesn't come out with SSR 2 or 2.5)...but again, it's a new car, I don't want to cut through paint or clearcoat.
 
First off, you are not going to cut through the paint or clearcoat with SSR3, a cutting pad, and a 7424. You may experience a bit of hazing but SSR1 will quickly take care of it. However, I would not use SSR3 unless SSR2.5 cannot give the results you want. No reason to use a more aggressive product than necessary.
 
HondaMan said:
Got my SSR 3 today...it says "Heavy Duty Compound" and I'm now a bit worried that this is a quantum leap up from SSR 2.5 in a way that SSR 2.5 wasn't from SSR 2.[/b]
Click to expand...

You are correct, SSR3 is much more agressive than SSR 2.5. I have used it with the PC and yes I did get hazing but I also got some scratches from I assume from using too much pressure. I would start out with SSR 2.5 and a cutting pad and then jump to SSR 3 if needed. Good Luck:)
 
it is strong stuff but can be used by hand or pc..by hand i would use a cotton towel and just follow the scratch lines you are trying to get out, by pc use a polishing pad and let the product do the work not the pad, this will avoid marring and possibly the haze too...be prepared to use the pc at #6 to work it well into and out of the scratched area, then follow with 2.5 on a polishing pad.
 
Thanks guys!!

What exactly do you all mean by "hazing" -- do you mean that the paint/finish hit by the SSR 3 will "discolor" relative to the rest of the car that is looks different? Is this "repaired" by re-sealing the area that was hit as well as the rest of the car?
 
HondaMan said:
Thanks guys!!

What exactly do you all mean by "hazing" -- do you mean that the paint/finish hit by the SSR 3 will "discolor" relative to the rest of the car that is looks different? Is this "repaired" by re-sealing the area that was hit as well as the rest of the car?
Click to expand...

Yes, hazing can happen after using the SSR3, and this will look like discoloration, or lack of depth and color to the area.

Just use SSR 2.5 with a polishing pad to remove the hazing.
 
Rob Tomlin said:
Yes, hazing can happen after using the SSR3, and this will look like discoloration, or lack of depth and color to the area. Just use SSR 2.5 with a polishing pad to remove the hazing.
Click to expand...

How does using a less-abrasive compound eliminate this "hazing" if the hazing is caused by the "worn" factor? How could using something less abrasive restore it to look like the rest of the car?

I tried SSR 1 and then SSR 2 and then SSR 2.5 on previous scratch work....when I was finished, I didn't "retrace" my steps and then go back down to SSR 2 and then SSR 1.

Are you guys saying I should do that for cosmetic appearances? What if I'm going to re-seal the worn area a few times to re-equalize the look with the rest of the car?
 
HondaMan said:
How does using a less-abrasive compound eliminate this "hazing" if the hazing is caused by the "worn" factor? How could using something less abrasive restore it to look like the rest of the car?

I tried SSR 1 and then SSR 2 and then SSR 2.5 on previous scratch work....when I was finished, I didn't "retrace" my steps and then go back down to SSR 2 and then SSR 1.

Are you guys saying I should do that for cosmetic appearances? What if I'm going to re-seal the worn area a few times to re-equalize the look with the rest of the car?
Click to expand...

First off, you need to realize that re-sealing an area will do NOTHING to reduce any left over swirl marks, hazing, or marring.

Regarding the question of how using a less abrasive compound would eliminate the hazing, think about this logically. If someone scratched the paint with something that was the equivalent of a 500 grade sandpaper (and I know this isn't a perfect analogy), would you use an even coarser grade sandpaper to remove the scratches? Of course not. You would use the least agressive product possible to do the job. The same logic applies when removing hazing or other defects caused by a compound.

Since SSR 2.5 is less agressive than SSR 3, it won't cause hazing with a polishing pad, but is agressive enough to get rid of the hazing caused by 2.5.

Hope this helps.
 
I would use a PC with SSR3. By hand it will leave some scratches/abrasive marks, with a PC it breaks down quick and I 've never had an issue.

I would not say it is MUCH more aggressive than 2.5.......
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top