How to take care of a mazda black
- Thread starter manmanSS
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imported_themightytimmah
New member
Depth is in the prep work. Consider polishing the car with SSR2.5 followed by SSR1, then use #7/#26, or any other combo you like. For me, its RMG/Pinnacle Souveran, but there are a lot of quality glaze/carnuba combos out there.
White95Max
New member
You can apply multiple layers of #26, but you should polish the car before applying a glaze. The polishing will really bring out the depth and gloss from your paint.
can I use the meguiars consumer level polish as I have some of it left. Or should I really go out and get AIO. Also What is a glaze then?
So now next time how will I go about this?
1. Clean
2. Polish
3. Glaze
4. #26
How do I get rid of all the stuff that is already on, clay it or use a little bit of dishwashing soap.
So now next time how will I go about this?
1. Clean
2. Polish
3. Glaze
4. #26
How do I get rid of all the stuff that is already on, clay it or use a little bit of dishwashing soap.
White95Max
New member
The polish will get rid of anything that is on the paint. IMO, I'd get the SSR polishes to use with a PC. AIO is great stuff too, there's a reason you hear so much about it.
A glaze is usually just a product that contains lots of fillers and oils to generate a wet-looking finish. A lot of products are mislabeled as glazes, like 3M Perfect-It Machine Glaze for example. That's an abrasive polish for use with a polisher.
If I were you, I'd do:
Polish with PC and SSRs
Clean paint with AIO
Sealant of your choice
Nattys
If you want to stick with what you have, you can try the Meg's polish, #7, and #26. You could also substitute NXT wax for #7, and apply #26 over that. NXT has cleaners in it, so it would kinda serve the purpose of AIO by cleaning the paint.
A glaze is usually just a product that contains lots of fillers and oils to generate a wet-looking finish. A lot of products are mislabeled as glazes, like 3M Perfect-It Machine Glaze for example. That's an abrasive polish for use with a polisher.
If I were you, I'd do:
Polish with PC and SSRs
Clean paint with AIO
Sealant of your choice
Nattys
If you want to stick with what you have, you can try the Meg's polish, #7, and #26. You could also substitute NXT wax for #7, and apply #26 over that. NXT has cleaners in it, so it would kinda serve the purpose of AIO by cleaning the paint.
White95Max
New member
Yeah #7 says it's a "pure polish", but it's called Show Car Glaze...contradictory. As I said, a lot of products are mislabeled as glazes or polishes.
SSR1 would work for very minor swirls, but you may want to get some SSR2 as well. Assuming that your opinion of "minor swirls" is accurate (very often people think their swirls are more minor than they really are, and hard clearcoats can make them seem even more major), you shouldn't need more than SSR2.
SSR1 would work for very minor swirls, but you may want to get some SSR2 as well. Assuming that your opinion of "minor swirls" is accurate (very often people think their swirls are more minor than they really are, and hard clearcoats can make them seem even more major), you shouldn't need more than SSR2.
White95Max
New member
Well #7 is hardly a polish at all from my experience. It just contains lots of fillers to give the impression that it's polishing swirls out.
2.5 would be fine, but if your swirls are minor like you said, you may unnecessarily be removing more clearcoat than you should.
BTW I drove a manual 2001 MX-5 Convertible the other day. That was a blast! :xyxthumbs
2.5 would be fine, but if your swirls are minor like you said, you may unnecessarily be removing more clearcoat than you should.
BTW I drove a manual 2001 MX-5 Convertible the other day. That was a blast! :xyxthumbs
Accumulator
Well-known member
A bit of clarification:
#7 is functionally nonabrasive. It won't act like a "polish" in the normally-understood way. It is also *much* better suited to single stage paint than it is to basecoat clear.
Best approach IMO if you want to keep it simple is to get some Meg's #80. Yeah, it's called "Speed Glaze" but it's a mildy abrasive "polish" (forget normal word defininitions when dealing with Meguiar's products).
Use that and then apply the #7 on top of it. Apply the #26 on top of that. If *that* combo doesn't get it for you, you're probably gonna have to look to other product lines. But the #80 is quite user-friendly and it works well for most people. A little mild for Mazda clear IMO, but it's still what I'd recommend.
#7 is functionally nonabrasive. It won't act like a "polish" in the normally-understood way. It is also *much* better suited to single stage paint than it is to basecoat clear.
Best approach IMO if you want to keep it simple is to get some Meg's #80. Yeah, it's called "Speed Glaze" but it's a mildy abrasive "polish" (forget normal word defininitions when dealing with Meguiar's products).
Use that and then apply the #7 on top of it. Apply the #26 on top of that. If *that* combo doesn't get it for you, you're probably gonna have to look to other product lines. But the #80 is quite user-friendly and it works well for most people. A little mild for Mazda clear IMO, but it's still what I'd recommend.
White95Max
New member
SSR2 is comparable to #80, so I'd get SSR2.5 and #80. That way you'll have something stronger should you ever need a more aggressive polish.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Yeah, getting the 2.5 and the #80 would give you a good broad range of polishes.
Also, while AIO is a great product with a lot of uses, I would *not* toss it into the mix in this case. It'd clean off the oils/etc. that the #80 leaves behind and probably expose some residual imperfections. So if you get it, don't expect it to work well with the 2.5/#80/#7/#26 approach. Still good for plenty of other things though.
Also, while AIO is a great product with a lot of uses, I would *not* toss it into the mix in this case. It'd clean off the oils/etc. that the #80 leaves behind and probably expose some residual imperfections. So if you get it, don't expect it to work well with the 2.5/#80/#7/#26 approach. Still good for plenty of other things though.
White95Max
New member
I'd still get the AIO, but like Accumulator said, it would remove the oils left by #80 and #7, so it wouldn't be a good product to use after those. And if you used AIO before #80, it would remove the acrylic layer left by AIO. You might be able to do AIO and then #7 if you wanted.
