edit: just read the post above mine. id pick up a sheet of 2000, but if that doesnt cut enough, move to the 1500. if you want to play it safe, the 2000 marks will be easier to remove, but will take more work to take care of the scratch. i say try both, starting with the 2000...if no luck there, move to the 1500. as for the #9, i dont think that the swirl remover will have enough power with the pc to remove the rubbing compound marks. not only that, but i believe the dacp is a far better product whether its applied with the rotary, or the pc.
my advice would to pick up a sheet of each...1500, 2500, and 3000 grit sand paper. you'll probably have to order it online, but ive had pretty good success with that. since you dont own a rotary, i cant guarentee you'll be able to get out all of the wetsanding marks. however, the scratch is somewhat small, and as long as you dont cut too deep, you should be fine. i followed that procedure to remove some orange peel from my repainted honda, and managed to get all of the scratches from the 1500 grit paper out. i know megs recommends their hi-tech wash for wet sanding diluted 1-1, and it seems to work very well.
is the finess-it 2 compound rotary only? i picked up the 3m medium cut (which i assume took the place of the rubbing compound), and while it cuts very well, youll need something to follow it up. i recommend picking up a bottle of megs mirror glaze dacp (dual action-cleaner polish) for a final step. since you are just trying to remove the scratch, i wont recommend any wax or sealant to go over the dacp, ill leave that to you. id also either pick up a lake country orange pad at first to see if that does the job. if not, pick up a yellow pad for the rubbing compound, and follow it up with the orange pad with the dacp. anyway, heres the procedure id follow.
1. either wash the entire car, and dry accordingly, or qd the spot that youre intending to compound.
2. mix up the wetsanding solution, and start making a few passes with the 1500 (check after every 5 passes to make sure you dont cut too deep, wipe with a microfiber prior to checking)
3. once you believe youve removed enough cc to make the scratch less visible, repeat the above process with the 2500 grit, although this time you wont be checking for the scratch, you will just be trying to even out the sanding marks.
4. follow that up with the 3000 grit, and make sure your sanding marks are now to the point where they are very, very fine. there will be a good amount of hazing, but the sanding marks should be able to be to be removed.
5. wipe down the area, and qd it ready for compounding.
6. start off with the dacp on the orange pad (yellow polishing if you use megs pads), at speed 5...i assume you know how to use the pc correctly to remove defects.
7. if it removed the majority of the marring, but there is still some there...follow it up with another pass of dacp at speed 5.
8. if the light sanding marks are gone, but you can still see some...apply the 3m compound to the orange pad. 1 pass should be suffiencient. speed 5 yet again
9. follow that up with one or two passes of the dacp, on speed 5...if you are happy with the result, throw on the white pad with some dacp, and make one final pass.
if marring still is present after this, im going to say you may need to purchase a rotary buffer. the pc cannot always remove wetsanding marks, but i have been successful as long as i did not apply too much pressure with the 1500 grit, and made sure to follow it up with the others. read up on wetsanding, and how to properly do it. when wetsanding, only go in one direction, never in circles, or overlapping as it will make it much harder to remove. one last thing, when i say passes...i dont mean go over the area once. apply the product to the pad, and completely work it in. the dacp is a tricky compound to work with...takes awhile to work in, but its results are quite good with the pc.
just pm me with any specific questions, but im sure ill check back here just in case. good luck.
