How to remove disc brake grime -- SUGGESTIONS??

Yeah, I can see where you're coming from Gixxer. I think the photo probably does make things look worse than they were -- the green film was some sort of strange reaction between the CLR and the metal and the wheel cleaner. As I mentioned earlier, I did apply brake cleaner before replacing the wheels, and while the greenish discoloration was still there, it brushed out after a quick ride around the block. I'm weighing the bead-blasting/sanding/replacement options as the discs still aren't as polished as I would like. Tiny black spots remain on the discs, giving them a dirty look... it's not a big deal, but the brakes would look great without those. When I'm driving, I always notice the cars that have clean and reflective discs -- they really make the wheels stand out.



Any idea what bead blasting costs? It's pretty much up between bead blasting, sanding, or getting new rotors. My existing pads will probably need to be replaced in the not too distant future (regular wear and tear), so I might paint the rotors and take off the paint with the soon-to-be-replaced pads, and then go with a low-dusting alternative.
 
Vincent231 said:
Any idea what bead blasting costs?
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The only rotors I've had bead blasted recently are from my motorcycle. Can't remember if they were $15/ea or $15/pair. Probably $15-20 each. That was at a motorcycle repair shop. To be honest, you might be able to find a metalwork shop that would do it cheaper. Or, if you have a compressor, you can buy cheap bead blasting equipment for around $80 or so.
 
no way do you paint the rotors......normal friction between the pads and rotors is fine to keep em "shiny".....

if it really bugs ya, a shop can turn em for 15 bux....

this is where the rotors are removed, and turned on a lathe style machine, resulting in an even , flat , "shiny" surface.....they must also be measured to insure that they ar still within the manufacturers operating thickness.......

no u dont sand em yourself, as u cant do it evenly, resulting in uneven contact pattern between pad and rotor......

this can result in uneven or less braking ability, wear, and heat formation.....
 
Here's some info from an article based upon the "uniform inspection guidelines developed by the Motorist Assurance Program (MAP)", see: http://www.autosite.com/garage/repairqa/ques007.asp



"The rule here is resurface when necessary, don't resurface when it isn't necessary. If the rotors and drums are in relatively good condition (smooth and flat with no deep scoring, cracks, distortion or other damage), they do not have to be resurfaced."

The picture presented shows staining and some surface rusting, nothing that would require resurfacing.

However, sanding is recommended even if resurfacing is done:

"It's also a good idea to sand rotors after they've been turned with #120 to #150 grit sandpaper to create a smooth, nondirectional or crosshatch finish. Sanding helps "plateau" the surface by knocking off the sharp peaks left by a lathe. Some brake lathe manufacturers say this final step isn't necessary because their equipment leaves such a smooth finish. Maybe so. But sanding is still a good way to ensure proper pad seating and minimize the chance of noise with semi-metallic pads."

If it were my car, my next step would be to hit it with some 120 to 150 grit paper. Please let us know what you end up doing, and how it worked.
 
Drive the car around and all of that stuff will come off in time. Rust is normal for rotors if theyre left sitting for a long period of time after contact with water. Getting your rotors turned (resurfaced) costs $5 the last time I checked at most auto parts stores.
 
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