How to re-finish alloy wheels

:) .but the Z6 is the best....thx....i think its hard...honestly...really hard...once you have a sealant/wax you like on there...to tell a huge difference with the QD's....especially if you have a new car(1-2 yrs old)....IMHO.....thx again buddy....the car u have the Zaino on is it light/dark colored....same question for the PPg'd one...
 
Yup, I love the Zaino smell. They all seem to have their own little motifs when it comes to the scent...Zaino, Pinnacle. I wonder what BF's gonna smell like.



Floni, as for the colors...check my signature. Gonna get Souveran when I run out of the PPG for the Benz.
 
perfect ...tell me in your humble opinion....you got 2 black cars....what looks better on them the Zaino/Klasse...just curious because u use both....my Max is a metallic Grey Lustre(more dark than light)...never had anything on there except Zaino....and i love the results....but like a good Autopian always open to knowledgeable opinions......and ive seen so many posts about the deepness to the Klasse with darker colored cars(saying zaino just shines/slickens it up)....so .....give it up....tell me:D
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by FLONI [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>perfect ...tell me in your humble opinion....you got 2 black cars....what looks better on them the Zaino/Klasse...just curious because u use both....my Max is a metallic Grey Lustre(more dark than light)...never had anything on there except Zaino....and i love the results....but like a good Autopian always open to knowledgeable opinions......and ive seen so many posts about the deepness to the Klasse with darker colored cars(saying zaino just shines/slickens it up)....so .....give it up....tell me:D [/b]</blockquote>
FLONI, no problem. You're only a true Autopian when this hobby becomes a never-ending quest for more and more details & info.

It's hard to say which car looks better. Both products will make any car look unbelievable with the right technique. Once again, if I HAD to choose one or the other, I would go with the AIO+PPG over the Zaino.

My experiences pretty much mimick what's been stated here on this forum. The Zaino is easily the most shiny, reflective, super-slick, super-beading stuff I've ever used and looks very nice.

The AIO + PPG is shiny and reflective as well, but not as much as Zaino. It's strong points are that it looks softer and darker. I'm sure this darkening effect would be enhanced if I had a few coats of SG on, but the way it is right now really looks nice. Doesn't look as "hard" as the bimmer.

I don't mean to say that the Z makes the car look shiny and nothing else. Heck, both cars look very "black" and the K + PPG car is very shiny too.

Also, the car with AIO and PPG is only 3 weeks old and has very few swirls, even in direct sunlight. The Z'd car has a few light swirls which I wasn't able to cover up with Z-5 ( I found this forum a few months after buying the car).

All in all, I'd lean towards saying that using a good carnauba on top of Klasse puts the look of a black car slightly ahead of Z. But this is HIGHLY subjective. I'm sure a lot of people would prefer the shininess of the Z and others prefer the K + Carnauba look.

Can't wait to try the Souveran...but that's not going to be for a while. HTH
 
BW - thanks for the complement. I appreciate it. As to your question, there was a change in the Z2/5 after the two days of drying then sun baking, compared to an hour or two of drying. One, the Z became more visible . . . whiter. I suppose you could call it chalky, but it was not powdery. That is, it did not rub off more easily. In fact, the opposite was true. It was about three times harder to remove. Keep in mind, Z is ridiculously easy to remove in the first place, so "three time one unit of ridiculous ease in remove" does not equal "difficult removal."



There were a few places where it required four or so passes of the towel to remove the Z, but not any elbow grease. I suspect these are areas in which I used too much Z, resulting in a "cake" of Z (which with normal, short drying would have just wiped off easily, but which, after two days, became a more hardened mass).
 
Hi everyone,

need your help as the dealer is trying to swipe me on a new set of alloys.

I have a 2001 Jag and it appears like the lacquer seems to be coming off all the wheels and now I can't clean the alloy to a shine.

What can I do to fix this?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks.
 
Well, I have a place here locally that will strip your wheels, repaint and clearcoat for $100 each. This price also includes them cleaning up any kinda roadrash you may have incurred. I suggest you let your fingers do the walking and google "wheel repair" and your city and see what you come up with :spy:

Welcome to Truth In Detailing. Hope to see you around :Frosty:
 
Refinishing Wheel Surface

? Remove the damaged wheel from vehicle.
? Clean the damaged area with PrepSol and then sand the scratched or damaged area with Norton 3X Sandpaper (p-graded aluminium oxide grain,) 60, 80 or 100 grit sand paper, sand wet or dry with a wooden sanding block.
? Use a tack rag and wipe the area, using a light pressure
? Fill any minor indentations with Bondo Lightweight Filler 264 and Red Cream Hardener, allowing approx 30 minutes before you shape / sand
? Sand the wheels until you've removed the scratches, `kerbing' marks and/or smoothed the Bondo filler.
? Continue the sanding process using finer and finer grades of UniGrit paper, 220 or 320 grit and finally with 500-grit paper.
? For small hard to reach places use a Dremel Tool and a suitable sanding bit
Note- If the above cleaning method don?t finish to wheels to your liking have them bead blasted

Repainting (cast aluminium ) Wheel Surface

80% of all OEM wheels are finished with a powder coating, as it is the most durable finish you can use.The following will result in a durable re-finished repaint

? Prepare the surface by removing all sandpaper residues with a tack rag, wash surface and then dry thoroughly. .
? Use 3M Painters Masking Tape between the tyre and the wheel rim (or use Vaseline to mask the tyre from paint overspray)
? Wipe-down the wheels with DuPont Prep Sol and allow to air dry.
? Apply a thin coat of 1z 'Haft-Grund' Self-etching Primer to stabilize and provide an etched surface.
? Use at temperatures between 70 ? 90.oF degrees Fahrenheit (.Do not use this paint in damp conditions)
? Shake the can well for at least a full minute
? Push the spray nozzle as you sweep across and release at the end.
? Spray on, spray off. Spray on, spray off; apply as a very fine / thin coat.
? Paint the wheels with two thin coats of silver alloy paint (Wurth German Alloy Silver Wheel) to ensure complete coverage
? Allow air-drying; 1-2 hours between coats and then lightly sand finish, then leave to cure overnight.
? Finish with a clear lacquer paint (Wurth European Blend Lacquers) apply two or three thin coats of clear with about 20-30 minutes of drying time between coats to seal the silver metallic paint and add depth and gloss
? A allow clear coat to air-dry and then cure for 4-6 ours
? Apply a sealant for protection
? If your axle/ wheel centres (hats) are cast iron, you may want to consider painting the hat area with some hi-temp black engine paint


An extract from ?Repairing Scratched or Curbed Wheels?, one of a series of 118 unbiased ?The Science of Detailing? technical papers, a library of educational materials that has become the #1 reference for car care on the Internet

Chances are you'll learn something about detailing if you read any of these; although these articles will not improve your detailing skills, lead to a successful business or change your life. Applying what you learn from it, however, will. That's where your commitment comes in - you need to make a commitment to yourself right now that you will take action on what you learn.


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