How to move PC in awkward areas?

[mikenap]

I'm hoping maybe some pros who use the PC regularly can help me with a couple of questions. First, it's a given that any real correction with a PC requires pressure and speed 5 or higher. Now say you're doing a long hood like on a pickup or a roof. How do you use enough pressure to get decent correction when stretched out over a long panel like that? It seems like you can't get enough downward force when you're stretching as far as your arms will reach. Also, what do you do when you get some large panels that start flexing under the pressure?



My other question involves polishing with the PC right up to where the trim pieces start. I can never get any scratches out too close to the trim. About 1/8" from the trim, the machine just can't seem to get anything done. Do you alwayshave to hit these by hand? How about door panels that curve up into a little shelf right under the windows? It doesn't seem like I can get anything done there either.



Sorry for asking so many questions in one thread, but I'm really curious if people with a lot of PC experience can share any tips with me. Thanks.

 

[byalegend]

Funny, I just did a friend's 2004 4Runner with some of the same kinds of angles you mention. I used a folding step stool to reach the middle of the hood, and I worked in small sections until I finished the middle of the hood. The step stool's bar that acts as a handle kept me from falling onto the hood as I polished it.



For the little "shelf" below the windows, I skipped it. I did have some Adam's 4" pads that I could have used to get that area, though.



I've never really noticed any issues with polishing up to the trim. I'd be interested to see what pros have to say about that.

 

[Leadfootluke]

Interested as well. I haven't done any DA correction yet and wonder the same thing [how to get close to trims and edges].

 

[Accumulator]

I'm hoping maybe some pros who use the PC regularly can help me with a couple of questions. First, it's a given that any real correction with a PC requires pressure and speed 5 or higher. Now say you're doing a long hood like on a pickup or a roof. How do you use enough pressure to get decent correction when stretched out over a long panel like that? It seems like you can't get enough downward force when you're stretching as far as your arms will reach...

I did the roof of my Yukon, and between my height (5' 10") and my kinda short arms, it *was* a bit of a challenge, even standing on my work platforms.



You just gotta press down. However you're holding the thing, there's some way to press down, even though the lack of leverage might make it a little more (well, maybe a lot more) difficult than it usually is.

Also, what do you do when you get some large panels that start flexing under the pressure?

As long as it's nothing really alarming I just wouldn't worry about it. But if you can get by with less pressure by using a different pad/product combo then I'd consider doing that.

My other question involves polishing with the PC right up to where the trim pieces start. I can never get any scratches out too close to the trim. About 1/8" from the trim, the machine just can't seem to get anything done. Do you alwayshave to hit these by hand?

Sometimes you can tape the trim and get up against it that way, but with aggressive stuff it'll chew up the tape in no time (heh heh, doing a blue car, I had blue tape transfer to the pad and for a moment I thought I'd hit basecoat ).



Otherwise, yeah, just gotta do it by hand. And that can take a long, long time.

How about door panels that curve up into a little shelf right under the windows? It doesn't seem like I can get anything done there either.

I'll at least *try* using the overhanging edge of a large pad. This works great via rotary, OK via Flex 3401, less-swell via PC.

 

[Atlantic Euro]

I use my 3" RO for tight spaces.

 

[Accumulator]

I use my 3" RO for tight spaces.

I try that (now that Griot's has sent me a replacement unit, we'll see how long this one lasts..), and when I'm lucky it works out OK. Handy little things, those 3" polishers, huh?



But I often find that it still won't reach up into tight spots the way a few inches of overhanging (large) pad will :think: It's a matter of the body of the machine bumping into stuff, just no way to get anything larger than a ~1" thick pad's edge into the tight spots.

 

[Atlantic Euro]

I try that (now that Griot's has sent me a replacement unit, we'll see how long this one lasts..), and when I'm lucky it works out OK. Handy little things, those 3" polishers, huh?



But I often find that it still won't reach up into tight spots the way a few inches of overhanging (large) pad will :think: It's a matter of the body of the machine bumping into stuff, just no way to get anything larger than a ~1" thick pad's edge into the tight spots.

I actually have their air-tool. It is harder to understand the speed, but their polishing pads are pretty soft, so I think the safety budget is reasonable, and it goes into pretty tight spaces. Haven't used their 3" - thinking of getting the Makita 3"

 

[Accumulator]

I actually have their air-tool.. Haven't used their 3" - thinking of getting the Makita 3"

Ah, gotcha :xyxthumbs Yeah, that's got a much smaller housing.



Heh heh, I have a knee-jerk animosity towards air-powered polishers, having used air D/As back in the day for minimum wage



If you do get an electric one, I'd sure buy the Makita instead of the Griot's, though I see the latter has been redesigned again (right after I got my old-model one).