How to go about: A mint British racing green miata

manmanSS

New member
Hey guys,



I was asked by one of my freinds to detail his mint 91 BRG miata SE, its in mint condition and its a very rare car. Also he's a very good freind and I cant screw it up.



The car is a non metallic, british racing green in excellent condition very minor/almost no swirls, small scrates from normal use....It is turbo'd and auto x'd about 220 whp on a 2100 lbs car :)



My pc broke so for now I am going to have to use a rotary orbital



I was planning on the following:



1. wash: Meg gold class wash

2. Clay

3. ???? I was thinking about using meg #80 or should I get SSR2

4. Meg 7 show car glaze

5. Meg 26 high tech yellow carnuba



what do you think?



I havent bought a decent polish so I did not know what to go with, I need something for this miata and also my black miata, which has some swirls what do you think I should go with.
 
#80 or SSR2 would both work for minor swirls, but on a rare color, do you really want to use a rotary? Do you have adequate experience to feel comfortable using a rotary on a rare paintjob?
 
What condition is the paint in?BRG is a base/clear paint, and fairly forgiving to work on. BRG is also not all that rare in the Miata world, but still a great color. If there aren't too many swirls or scratches you may not want to use a rotary unless you are very comfortable with that process. You can do more harm than good.



If the paint isn't swirled I'd start by claying the car, then use a very mild polish and follow up with a coat of Nattys Blue wax.
 
Tread very lightly. Miata paint can be very thin in spots. IIRC some areas around the trunk are notorious for buffing through.





PC.
 
I'm sorry I did not mean to write rotary, what I meant to say was random orbital buffer. sorry about that



I plan on doing most of it by hand, but use random orbital for the LSP.



The paint is in great shape, almost brand new, thus I was not sure what polish to use for it?



For LSP should I go with meg 26 or natty's
 
If I remember right the early Miata BRG was a little off shade as far as BRG is concerned, later years the color improved. Concidering that I'd go with 26 to darken the color a little.

I'm a BRG lover!!
 
yeah I noticed it was a little lighter than a pure BRG.



will use 26 have enough of it... :)



need some advice for polish what to use for this one and also my black 02 miata, who's paint is in good shape but has some swirls



:ca :)
 
manmanSS said:
Hey guys,



I was asked by one of my freinds to detail his mint 91 BRG miata SE, its in mint condition

I was planning on the following:



3. ???? I was thinking about using meg #80 or should I get SSR2

4. Meg 7 show car glaze

5. Meg 26 high tech yellow carnuba



what do you think?



If it's that nice, you shouldn't need to do 3 steps. Just polish/glaze and wax/seal.
 
Yeah I was thinking about using Meg 7 as optional as its a pain to get off, but I have found that the oils do deepen the fininsh or will the #80 also do that (I have never used it).
 
I've never used Megs polish, only use Poor Boys, so I can only recommend what I use.

I would start with SSR2 with a green Propel pad. If this leaves any haze I would follow with SSR1 and a finishing pad. If you have Megs 7 use it but if your going to buy some I would try Megs 5. I find the look similar but easier to work with.
 
I already ordered SSR2 so will try with that, I just dont know at what stage ssr1 is needed compared to SSR2, I know for my car it definately needs SSR2 maybe 2.5 but for the BRG miata I am not sure. Is there a clear way to decide?



thanks guys
 
Heh heh, if it were truly mint it wouldn't have marring to be taken care of ;)



You'll find out what is needed by trying stuff but it'd be good to start in the right ballpark. I'd find a good test spot area (with marring) and try the milder product first, see if it removes the marring or at least improves/hides it well enough.



If I were doing it, I'd probably use Meguiar's stuff (and note that I'm not a huge Meguiar's fan when it comes to polishes). The #80 just *might* have too much initial cut, no way to know until you try, but their #9 is about as mild as a product can get while still containing (functional) abrasives. Leaves lots of trade secret oils/etc. behind to help hide stuff too. I'd say it leaves more behind than #80. Good way to go if you're planning on using #7 and #26. IIRC people have had good results using #9 on Miatas, though there's a pretty broad range of paints on them so I hesitate to generalize.



If #7 is a pain you can use #5/#81/#3 (listed in order of easiest to use to toughest, but #3 is still easier than #7) or even Deep Crystal step #2.
 
It really depends on the condition of the surface and how it responds but I would start with a test patch (after washing and claying of course), #80 by hand on the edges, by orbital on an open panel and then evaluate the results. If you want to try other combos do them on adjacent test patches and see if you like the result.



#80 has lots of polishing oils. I doubt you’ll want to add the #7 step. You can try it on a small patch in the middle of a larger patch of #80 alone and see what you think.



You may find that #80 and #26 are all you need. If the surface is pristine #7 and #26 may be all you need but I seriously doubt it. (Actually, on a 15 year old car you may well need something stronger than the #80 but try it and see how it goes.)





PC.
 
On the black I would start out with SSR2 on a green propel pad, its not that aggressive, and follow up with SSR1 on a finishing pad to remove any hazeing.

On the BRG I'd start with SSR1 on a gray finishing pad. If thats not working for you than I would go to a blue pad then maybe a green pad if you have to. If the BRG is in good shape SSR1 and a finishing pad would leave it ready for some glaze and LSP.
 
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