Accumulator
Well-known member
Sandford said:
Or just use the SRP as the pre-wax cleaner. I'm a big fan of SRP, but I'd still do a little (abrasive) polishing first.
How to bring back the shine.
- Thread starter A4 2000
- Start date
Or just use the SRP as the pre-wax cleaner. I'm a big fan of SRP, but I'd still do a little (abrasive) polishing first.
Accumulator
Well-known member
A4 2000- I doubt if anybody here would recommend those TW products. No way I'd ever try them.
I don't see any need for an ETG as long as the polishing isn't going to be very aggressive. I got by just fine, polishing as needed, for *decades* without one (though I do find it handy now and then).
Most of the time I'd want to do a bit of correction; the SRP's filling only does so much and it's seldom enough IMO. Even a quickie polishing with something that's hand-use-friendly would suffice. But hey, that's just me.
Sandford said:
I don't see any need for an ETG as long as the polishing isn't going to be very aggressive. I got by just fine, polishing as needed, for *decades* without one (though I do find it handy now and then).
Most of the time I'd want to do a bit of correction; the SRP's filling only does so much and it's seldom enough IMO. Even a quickie polishing with something that's hand-use-friendly would suffice. But hey, that's just me.
Accumulator said:
Fair enough, maybe it depends on car and paint etc. Like you I have used products by hand for ages not really knowing what I was doing - for 20 yrs - but now I know a bit more about paint and products, I don't know, horses for courses I suppose. I just don't see the need for removing paint unless you need to. I mean if you keep getting scratches or swirls in the same place are you going to keep taking the paint away? Just something to bare in mind...
Accumulator
Well-known member
Sandford said:
Once a finish gets marred to the point that it's obviously imperfect, I'd think you *do* need to.
Then it's just a matter of not touching the paint in between washes and doing those washes properly, so I should hope that people don't keep marring up the paint over and over. Once you get the hang of taking care of vehicles they shouldn't get marred up very often. I hardly ever have to polish any more, and even when I did do it annually I wasn't taking off much paint. If somebody's getting significant marring on a regular basis, then IMO something's really wrong and they oughta track that down and correct it.
Guess it's a matter of what different people consider acceptable and what they're gonna put into the regular upkeep like the washes.
Accumulator
Well-known member
A4 2000- Sorry, the thread got a bit off-track there.
If you're gonna do some polishing, stick with known-quantity products like the Meguiar's rather than stuff like the Turtle Wax. The Meguiar's consumer-line stuff is commonly available OTC and should work well for you.
You might do a little of the dreaded SEARCHing and see if you can find anything helpful that Mike Phillips has posted.
If you're gonna do some polishing, stick with known-quantity products like the Meguiar's rather than stuff like the Turtle Wax. The Meguiar's consumer-line stuff is commonly available OTC and should work well for you.
You might do a little of the dreaded SEARCHing and see if you can find anything helpful that Mike Phillips has posted.
Accumulator said:
Hey, no problem. Ok, so I'll stay away from Turtle Wax and make sure to stick to Meguiar's. I'm just glad I read the suggestions to try polishing first, instead of jumping right into using rubbing compound. Hopefully polishing is all I will need for my car and my brother-in-law's car. I'll check out Mike Phillips' posts when I get a chance, since I like to be well informed before starting any first time attempts on something like this. I appreciate all the help everyone. Thanks.
Sandford said:
Taking a swipe at Accumulator like this is a no-no...
To the OP:
No matter what product you use, you will most likely cause more problems than you will fix by using a 10" buffer. Period.
I would work by hand before expecting to get good results from your buffer. If you want to minimize the swirls, and you dont have a DA/rotary, you should try a glaze such as Megs #7 that you can pick up at the auto parts stores, and then top it with some NXT 2.
If you want to really polish the paint by hand, then you will probably want something like Megs Ultimate Compound, and then SwirlX 2. And lots of patience and endurance.
The fact that you could cause holograms by improperly breaking the polish down with a gigantic, slow moving microfiber bonnet.
The whole reason a rotary/DA works is by removing paint.
If you want to use the 10" buffer, go for it. Just dont expect wonderful results. However, you may indeed find that your buffer is well suited for removing waxes, etc.
Let me just say that if you are a bit weary of using a DA such as the PC, UDM, G110 etc, dont be. If a numbskull like me can dive right into it and get great results without damaging anything, then you can too.
The whole reason a rotary/DA works is by removing paint.
If you want to use the 10" buffer, go for it. Just dont expect wonderful results. However, you may indeed find that your buffer is well suited for removing waxes, etc.
Let me just say that if you are a bit weary of using a DA such as the PC, UDM, G110 etc, dont be. If a numbskull like me can dive right into it and get great results without damaging anything, then you can too.
Kean
New member
....unbelievable attitude you have there. I would suggest you do a little reading before assuming someone like Accumulator doesn't know what they are talking about. He has the respect of a lot of members here (including reputable professionals) for good reason. ....check your ego at the door and you might just learn something.Sandford said:
A4 2000: Where are you located? Please fill in your profile. You'd be surprised how many Autopians would be willing to help you out.
If you happen to be near my area, I'd be more than happy to help you out. You could come over and try out a few different Compounds/Polishes with my G110 on a panel or two and see what works and what doesn't.
If you happen to be near my area, I'd be more than happy to help you out. You could come over and try out a few different Compounds/Polishes with my G110 on a panel or two and see what works and what doesn't.
Accumulator
Well-known member
A4 2000- If you can find a (reputable) Autopian in your area, they'll be able to get you up to speed quickly.
Otherise, the trick to using a buffer like yours is to work with products that are what I call "Accumulator-proof" :chuckle:
As craigdt suggested, using something that might not break down correctly can cause problems. SO...I'd choose products that aren't prone to those kinds of issues.
Something that works OK by hand should work OK with most any machine because the machine will basically just be a "mechanical hand that moves sorta slowly but doesn't get tired". Back to my Meguiar's product suggestions....
And as noted, if the cost isn't prohibitive, a really good polisher can be a godsend. Judging from your user-name, you're an Audi fan, and I can tell you straight out that to keep Audis looking (really) nice you simply need a good polisher that can work with hard clearcoats. (Not that you'll be taking off paint all the time
) Consider that I got my then-octogenarian father up to speed with a polisher (on his Audi) in about 15 minutes, no exaggeration. Yeah, doing some of the miracle-corrections you see here takes a bit of experience, but just speeding things up while doing no harm is something you'll find easily mastered.
Otherise, the trick to using a buffer like yours is to work with products that are what I call "Accumulator-proof" :chuckle:
As craigdt suggested, using something that might not break down correctly can cause problems. SO...I'd choose products that aren't prone to those kinds of issues.
Something that works OK by hand should work OK with most any machine because the machine will basically just be a "mechanical hand that moves sorta slowly but doesn't get tired". Back to my Meguiar's product suggestions....
And as noted, if the cost isn't prohibitive, a really good polisher can be a godsend. Judging from your user-name, you're an Audi fan, and I can tell you straight out that to keep Audis looking (really) nice you simply need a good polisher that can work with hard clearcoats. (Not that you'll be taking off paint all the time
) Consider that I got my then-octogenarian father up to speed with a polisher (on his Audi) in about 15 minutes, no exaggeration. Yeah, doing some of the miracle-corrections you see here takes a bit of experience, but just speeding things up while doing no harm is something you'll find easily mastered.REVNU said:
I'm in Lancaster actually. I'd really like for someone to 'show me the ropes' in person, but I'm so busy usually that I barely have time to even wash my car sometimes, let alone detail it. But if things calm down, I'd definitely like to know if someone lives close by.
Accumulator said:A4 2000- If you can find a (reputable) Autopian in your area, they'll be able to get you up to speed quickly.
Otherise, the trick to using a buffer like yours is to work with products that are what I call "Accumulator-proof" :chuckle:
As craigdt suggested, using something that might not break down correctly can cause problems. SO...I'd choose products that aren't prone to those kinds of issues.
Something that works OK by hand should work OK with most any machine because the machine will basically just be a "mechanical hand that moves sorta slowly but doesn't get tired". Back to my Meguiar's product suggestions....
And as noted, if the cost isn't prohibitive, a really good polisher can be a godsend. Judging from your user-name, you're an Audi fan, and I can tell you straight out that to keep Audis looking (really) nice you simply need a good polisher that can work with hard clearcoats. (Not that you'll be taking off paint all the time
I swear, I love this forum. I never thought I'd learn so much about professional detailing in such a short period of time. So I have one more question. Since the PC 7424 has orbital movement, why is it so much better at polishing than a regular orbital buffer? Is it because of the different speed settings?
The speed and movement (mini circles as I like to see them) of the random orbit helps to break down and utilize polishes better without holograms or trails. A regular orbital buffer lacks the power to correct (more effectively) than a PCXP. Of course, you could still do it.
The PC 7424XP is one of the best purchases you'll ever make.
The PC 7424XP is one of the best purchases you'll ever make.
Accumulator
Well-known member
A4 2000 said:
Adding to what rtom posted, machines like the PC are so much more effective you simply can't imagine. And the best of that breed (IMO the *best* is the Griot's 6" random orbital) are really something.
And then there's the Flex 3401, a random orbital with *forced* rotation, which can pretty much do *anything* while still being nice and safe.
It's not just a matter of variable speed; one of my favorite polishers (so much so I have two of them!) is the Cyclo, which is a single/fixed-speed unit. That's another one that is a whole different world compared to what you have now.
Kean
New member
....and here's a good, brief article explaining how a dual action machine (like the PC 7424/XP) typically works:
Dual Action Orbital Polisher Guide: how to remove swirls, scratches, & oxidation with an orbital buffer. Porter Cable 7424, foam pads, backing plate,
Dual Action Orbital Polisher Guide: how to remove swirls, scratches, & oxidation with an orbital buffer. Porter Cable 7424, foam pads, backing plate,
Accumulator
Well-known member
Kean- Did you see that *GIGANTIC* green pad on the PC at the start of the article?!? 