How much would you charge for this RAT infested detail?

As much as I usually don't like megs polishes (I usually prefer menzerna or optimum), use meguiars polishes on that car. Man up and do the full swirl removal, that paint needs it and if the customer doesnt think its worth it, tell him you'll put a line of blue tape down the hood and do your full process on half of it so he can see how good it is (for free).



The reason I say to use megs, is because clearcoats really dont soak up much oil; But single stageis a different story. On a single stage paint job, oily products like meguiars are just STUNNING. SS soaks up oils like a sponge does water (well not literally, but you get what I am saying).



I know you are a zaino guy, heck this is practically zainopia, but on single stage, use a good polish with a fair amount of oil (megs #83 followed by #80 will be amazing) and then top with a canauba. You can make white look wet like this, I have done it.



As for what I would charge, it depends on what he wanted. For a standard detail with no extras (wash, clay, 2 stage polish, wax, all the good stuff on the interior etc...) for a car in that condition I would have to say 400.
 
ron231 said:
As much as I usually don't like megs polishes (I usually prefer menzerna or optimum), use meguiars polishes on that car. Man up and do the full swirl removal, that paint needs it and if the customer doesnt think its worth it, tell him you'll put a line of blue tape down the hood and do your full process on half of it so he can see how good it is (for free).



The reason I say to use megs, is because clearcoats really dont soak up much oil; But single stageis a different story. On a single stage paint job, oily products like meguiars are just STUNNING. SS soaks up oils like a sponge does water (well not literally, but you get what I am saying).



I know you are a zaino guy, heck this is practically zainopia, but on single stage, use a good polish with a fair amount of oil (megs #83 followed by #80 will be amazing) and then top with a canauba. You can make white look wet like this, I have done it.



As for what I would charge, it depends on what he wanted. For a standard detail with no extras (wash, clay, 2 stage polish, wax, all the good stuff on the interior etc...) for a car in that condition I would have to say 400.



Hey, on your advice I just looked into #80 and #83. I was planning on using a glaze followed by a wax, though not necessarily 80 and 83. I'll bear them in mind. In any which case, I'm wary or doing full correction as I doubt the client will be willing to pay over $200. I was thinking more along the lines of a finishing polish followed by a filler glaze and finally a wax. I haven't heard back from him since yesterday, but we'll see.
 
SuperBee364 said:
I bet one pass with IP and an Orange LC pad would work wonders.



I'm kinda getting the feeling this detail will cost as much in product as it will render in payment lol
 
SS white is *very* hard paint. You can likely two step it with wool/rotary and then finishing with the rotary. One step of anything with the PC isn't likely to yield any decent results without a lot of time invested.
 
Doh, "S"IP is what I meant.. and I think Danforz uses a rotary?



Man, I wish you were close by... I'd love to have a go at that SS paint. I don't have any experience with SS paints, either, and would *love* to give that old 928 some love. That car is a throw back to my youth.
 
SuperBee364 said:
Doh, "S"IP is what I meant.. and I think Danforz uses a rotary?



Man, I wish you were close by... I'd love to have a go at that SS paint. I don't have any experience with SS paints, either, and would *love* to give that old 928 some love. That car is a throw back to my youth.



Hmm, well Spoiled man's post makes things a bit more complicated. I'm working with PC.
 
You truly have your work cut (no pun intended :)) out for you with the paint on this one. For me SS white = rotary and some tough wool.
 
Danforz said:
Hmm, well Spoiled man's post makes things a bit more complicated. I'm working with PC.
It comes back to expectations.



If you’re trying to get maximum defect removal then you probably won’t get very far with the PC.



But if you’re just trying to clean it up, remove imbedded dirt, cut through some of the oxidation and restore some of the shine, then the PC should work fine.



As long as the customer is well aware that the end result will be improvement, not perfection, they will still be happy.



And remember, the reason so many of the cars you see on the road look like crap is because the vast majority of people don’t know and don’t care about a truly high quality finish. Don’t let the fact that you can’t make it perfect keep you from making it much better, if that’ll make the customer happy.





PC.
 
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