How important is it to use a pH balanced wash?

[Biggestmexi]

ok so while the culligan test is in process somewhat i would like to say something about ONR.



When i did the test for the onr i washed everything with the DI water to no skew results.



The ONR mix was in the beaker for about 15 min total. when i went to rinse it out the water CLEARLY sheeted off the inside of the beaker....!!!! awesome.



two washes with dawn later it fixed that(the water now CLEARLY stuck to the walls of the beaker). then i did rinse everything with culligan water as well.

 

[SuperBee364]

it is on the acid side, yes.

I did another test of the DI water and that was a 4.93pH

( i think something is up with our DI)(I willl try to get a replacement but it is still showing its good.)



Using the aforementioned DI water and ONR i also did a test.



Using Approx 1892ml of DI water and 7.5ml of ONR(which is the same as 2gal to 1oz), stirred with a magnetic stirrer for a minute or two



came out to 4.68pH

How acidic/basic your DI water comes out is dependent on quite a few different things...



1. How much and what type of minerals are in your water. Your cation resin will remove certain minerals, and replace them with hydrogen. Your water will leave the cation resin with extra hydrogen in it; it'll be slightly acidic. Then the water goes through the anion resin. The anion resin replaces certain minerals with oxygen. The free hydrogen and free oxygen form water. *However*, there is bound to be an imbalance, and there's going to be either some extra oxygen or extra hydrogen left; the water won't be completely "balanced", it'll lean toward acidic or basic. If truly balanced water is needed (a pH of 7.0) you can either add an acid or base to it to adjust the pH as needed.



2. Is your DI resin stochiometric? Most mixed bed DI resin is stochiometric (proper ratios of anion/cation resin types). If it's not, then your water will come out even more imbalanced. Most mixed bed DI resin will state in it's information sheet if it is stochiometric.



It is not at all unusual for DI water to lean toward the acidic side.



Edit: as for the importance of using products and water with a "perfect' pH of 7.0? IMO, not very. Even prior to messing with it by processing it somehow (DI, RO, softening, etc) it isn't unusual for naturally occurring water to swing quite a ways to both sides of the pH scale.



I'm certainly not recommending you go out and wash your car with lemon juice or bleach, but pH's in the "normal" range (IMO, between 4.5 to 10.5 or there about) isn't gonna cause any trouble.

 

[Biggestmexi]

Since the culligan jug looked as though it was changed since the last test i tested it again.



Today was 6.82pH



Culligan+ONR(same amounts as before)= 6.83

 

[Biggestmexi]

How acidic/basic your DI water comes out is dependent on quite a few different things...



1. How much and what type of minerals are in your water. Your cation resin will remove certain minerals, and replace them with hydrogen. Your water will leave the cation resin with extra hydrogen in it; it'll be slightly acidic. Then the water goes through the anion resin. The anion resin replaces certain minerals with oxygen. The free hydrogen and free oxygen form water. *However*, there is bound to be an imbalance, and there's going to be either some extra oxygen or extra hydrogen left; the water won't be completely "balanced", it'll lean toward acidic or basic. If truly balanced water is needed (a pH of 7.0) you can either add an acid or base to it to adjust the pH as needed.



2. Is your DI resin stochiometric? Most mixed bed DI resin is stochiometric (proper ratios of anion/cation resin types). If it's not, then your water will come out even more imbalanced. Most mixed bed DI resin will state in it's information sheet if it is stochiometric.



It is not at all unusual for DI water to lean toward the acidic side.

the reason i said something was up is becuase yesterday i got a 5.23pH is all



it is a mixed bed type where cation and anion resins are combined and mixed in a single tank. Thousands of cation and anion ion exchanges take place as water passes through the resin bed.



we also get out filter from Culligan as well.

here is more info on them Deionized Water Systems from Culligan - high purity water system testing for industrial water softeners, industrial water filters, and reverse osmosis systems

 

[Biggestmexi]

I'm certainly not recommending you go out and wash your car with lemon juice or bleach, but pH's in the "normal" range (IMO, between 4.5 to 10.5 or there about) isn't gonna cause any trouble.

in NO way am i trying to denounce any product here. I love the way ONR works.



and with as fast as you dry it off it doesnt have much time to do any damage. IF IT DOES ANY ANYWAY





maybe milk and ONR will work good.



I dont even know what these numbers amount to in terms of paint/wax damage and i have no way of telling.

 

[wannafbody]

Ammonia has a PH of 11.5. Armstrong recommends 1 cup of ammonia per gallon of water mixed with 1/4 cup of their floor soap in order to strip wax in a single application. So it seems plausible that repeat applications of higher PH levels could weaken a wax over several applications. All of this probably depends on the particular wax as well.

 

[Biggestmexi]

Ammonia has a PH of 11.5. Armstrong recommends 1 cup of ammonia per gallon of water mixed with 1/4 cup of their floor soap in order to strip wax in a single application. So it seems plausible that repeat applications of higher PH levels could weaken a wax over several applications. All of this probably depends on the particular wax as well.

does it need to sit or need to be scrubbed too though?



I mean when using the ONR it is on the car for a few minutes if that.



that is a lot of ammonia in one gallon. plus their soap is also a basic i would assume. To im going to guess that is still really basic.

 

[wannafbody]

Armstrong has a PH of around 8.5. Adding a cup of a product with an 11.5 PH will increase total PH-I'd guess to around the 10.5-11 range. That must be strong enough to strip floor wax in a single mopping.



I'd assume that ONR is safe but part of the ONR gets left on the surface-it doesn't all evaporate. With a conventional wash it's nuetralized by flushing with plain water.



ONR is soy based, I'm not sure how the polymerization process changes soy but I've been told by some in the oil business that some soy bi products are corrosive. It's one of the issues plaguing the shipping of biodiesels.