How fast/slow with rotary to remove swirls?

Does one pass for you = one group (say five) horizontal or vertical passes

Because if so then I can understand about optimum breaking down in three passes but how could it be broken down by the time you go left to right, right to left (a few inches down) and then left to right again lower than the second one and it be finished



Hey I'm not dogging yours either. everyone knows that there is not set way of doing it and however it works best for you, do it that way



I'd love to see a video of that. Sure yours would be faster but maybe the end result of mine would be a sharper reflected image and maybe more depth.

However I could be wrong. main thing is that we both get the best finish.
 
Can't wait to see the vid SVR, and maybe one from VaSuperShine also.

As I started the topic, I use SIP, and I'm looking for a way to get these dang swirls out because I'm not getting them all. And I'm willing to spend an extra 2 minutes per 2'x2' area if that's what it takes.

Bring it on SVR...and anyone else that wants to post a vid of WHAT WORKS!
 
Ok I see whats going on here, SVR's 15 passes is the same exact thing as VA's 3 passes. On a 2x2 area you have to probably work the machine back and forth 5 times to cover the whole area.



SVR considers that 5 passes and VA considers that same work 1 pass. To finish off the polish, both have to do 2 more rounds on the 2X2 panel. So for SVR it works out to 15 "passes" and for VA it works out to "3" passes, but essentially the same exact thing.





Hope that clears things up a bit.



Jim
 
well theres definitely a little communication breakdown, here's a good way to decifer it. if a pc takes 5 minutes to properly break down a polish, a rotary takes 2. i consider a pass as one full atempt at breaking down the polish. all this "my method produces darker crisper deeper more reflective" talk is a little strange, you mean you remove more clear coat? or do you mean you take a lot longer time to remove the defects? are you speaking of correction or finial polish? i understand the terminology isn't a univeral language so i will try to get my hands on a decent vid cam and simply display the way i use my makita.
 
How about:



Pass = The movement from one side to another. From point A to B horizontally or vertically.

Set (of passes) = Enough "Passes" to cover a 2x2, or whichever size panel you are working on, once. So like 5 horizontal or vertical passes for a 2x2.

Cycle = Multiple "Sets" until polish breakdown.



All these definitions of passes are giving me a headache!



I do it like SVR as well, except that I do not end at a low rpm.
 
Sorry VA. Now I understand what your PASS means. It sounds like the same amount of time as me anyway.

Working it at 850rpm for five directional passes or more with IP or similar product has resulted in no marring, hazing, hologramming or far less and LSP ready as it breaks down so fine that it becomes like a final polish. According to Dave anyway.



Sure I still follow with the final. Noticed a better result on my garage queen. Amazing image reflections and depth.
 
svr- yeah really who cares what method you use, whether plane train or auto as long as you get the results you should be getting. did it remove the imperfections? that's all that really matters, to a point anyhow, no need in removing too much clear, theres a fine line i suppose. most side panels i will operate the maching straight and come back cutting the first line in half and so on. i normally do this about three times with optimums line. this is spreading the polish with the pad and the machine off, then polishing @1500 rpm's. when the swirl marks and scratches are gone im done with the aggressive combo. ive seen your work and you can definitely remove swirl marks with a rotary, nobody does it identically i guess.
 
SVR said:
600 to start and some pressure then up to 1000 for five passes and then 1200 to 1450 rpm for the next five and I finish at 850 rpm to break it down finer (dave kg method)



One to two inches of movement with the rotary per second also.
Click to expand...



I use that as my final polish method. I have seen that referred to as the "Zenith Method". I am very unskilled, and I can get a hologram-free result with that method, even on my super soft clear Black Lexus. On the Lexus I need to use Menzerna Micro or Final Polish II with a Lake Country Black (grey?) pad--regular, not CCS. With other finishes I can do it with Meg's 80 and a Meg's Tan pad--but rotary method is the same.



If there are bad imperfections, I need another pad/polish combo first, and then I do not bother with the Zenith, because I have to come back with the less agressive "Pass" combination afterwards. Probably some folks can skip the second "Pass" but I'm not that good.
 
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