How far to take down clear?

I

imported_animes2k

New member
Well, I did a test spot on the hood of my new WRX... Apparently it sat on the dealer lot for a little too long and was exposed, unprotected... I used a 4" SFX1 pad by hand, first with an application of SSR2.5, then IP (I was workin' up a sweat!). I have a PC, but it's late... The Metabo is on the way :)



To smooth it out (some very very light scratches) I hit it with a MF applicator and #80, then RMG...



Here's a before/after shot... I was wondering if I should work to perfect it or just live with the "after" pitting?



Also, the OP has micropitting on the rest of the car (mostly the sides) which IMPROVES with heavy polishing, but doesn't get eliminated... Again, just live with it? It really irks me that it's keeping me from obtaining a true liquid wet finish, as it diffracts the light :(



pitting.jpg




Thanks for any suggestions.
 
Well, I did a test spot on the hood of my new WRX... Apparently it sat on the dealer lot for a little too long and was exposed, unprotected... I used a 4" SFX1 pad by hand, first with an application of SSR2.5, then IP (I was workin' up a sweat!). I have a PC, but it's late... The Metabo is on the way :)



To smooth it out (some very very light scratches) I hit it with a MF applicator and #80, then RMG...



Here's a before/after shot... I was wondering if I should work to perfect it or just live with the "after" pitting?



Also, the OP has micropitting on the rest of the car (mostly the sides) which IMPROVES with heavy polishing, but doesn't get eliminated... Again, just live with it? It really irks me that it's keeping me from obtaining a true liquid wet finish, as it diffracts the light :(



pitting.jpg




Thanks for any suggestions.
 
I've been meaning to pick up one of those lighted magnifiers...



I'm guessing that the pitting IS due to acid rain, fallout, being exposed to the elements

since it was sitting on the dealer lot for quite a while.



What would I be trying to determine by looking closely at the paint?
 
I've been meaning to pick up one of those lighted magnifiers...



I'm guessing that the pitting IS due to acid rain, fallout, being exposed to the elements

since it was sitting on the dealer lot for quite a while.



What would I be trying to determine by looking closely at the paint?
 
Acid rain pits look like needle pin pokings and are usually very uniform in appearance(lack of uniformity may indicate another source, but that may not always be the case), and fallout typical has a colored hue, however because the area has been polished(i usually inspect pre polishing) I'm not sure how you would be able to tell. Regardless, unless this car is a show car, removing all of the pits may be a waste of time. Another thing to consider is how much paint is removed if you don't have a way to measure the film thickness, especially when working with a rotary.
 
Acid rain pits look like needle pin pokings and are usually very uniform in appearance(lack of uniformity may indicate another source, but that may not always be the case), and fallout typical has a colored hue, however because the area has been polished(i usually inspect pre polishing) I'm not sure how you would be able to tell. Regardless, unless this car is a show car, removing all of the pits may be a waste of time. Another thing to consider is how much paint is removed if you don't have a way to measure the film thickness, especially when working with a rotary.
 
I'd *absolutely* leave it. Having owned a few Subies (including a WRX), I can say for certain that the paint is *thin*. No way would I try to remove the pitting. You'd need a rotary and a harsh compound and you'd take off so much clear that any future correction would be risky. Sorry to say, but you'd better just live with it. Just IMO of course...
 
I'd *absolutely* leave it. Having owned a few Subies (including a WRX), I can say for certain that the paint is *thin*. No way would I try to remove the pitting. You'd need a rotary and a harsh compound and you'd take off so much clear that any future correction would be risky. Sorry to say, but you'd better just live with it. Just IMO of course...
 
Accumulator - thanks for the info... To be absolutely clear (ha!) are you saying to leave the existing pitting or go ahead and polish it out a *bit* and live with the more minor pitting?



Thanks!
 
Accumulator - thanks for the info... To be absolutely clear (ha!) are you saying to leave the existing pitting or go ahead and polish it out a *bit* and live with the more minor pitting?



Thanks!
 
Lowejackson said:
Is that the original paint, if so would it not be covered by a warranty
Click to expand...



Perhaps, but dealing with the dealer... hmm... My guess is that *IF* they decided to "cover" it, they'd have it detailed by one of their own...



I've also heard of the district managers doing a measurement and saying "well, it's within spec, so we're not doing anything about it" or choosing to offer to repaint certain panels.



My only other option I could consider would be a clearcoat respray, which my regular body shop is not into - they're not really the showcar type :(
 
Lowejackson said:
Is that the original paint, if so would it not be covered by a warranty
Click to expand...



Perhaps, but dealing with the dealer... hmm... My guess is that *IF* they decided to "cover" it, they'd have it detailed by one of their own...



I've also heard of the district managers doing a measurement and saying "well, it's within spec, so we're not doing anything about it" or choosing to offer to repaint certain panels.



My only other option I could consider would be a clearcoat respray, which my regular body shop is not into - they're not really the showcar type :(
 
animes2k said:
Accumulator - thanks for the info... To be absolutely clear (ha!) are you saying to leave the existing pitting or go ahead and polish it out a *bit* and live with the more minor pitting?
Click to expand...



Since the pitting would bug me, I'd polish it out a *little bit* but I wouldn't attempt to really "fix" the problem. I'm a big fan of keeping the clear as thick as you can but I know you want to try to improve it somewhat. I wouldn't try to have it repainted either, IMO you'd be opening a different can of worms. And no way would I let the dealer/etc. touch it.



Having tried to fix something like this on an Outback with just a PC and 6-6.5" pads, I'm pretty sure you won't get too far with that kind approach, let alone by hand. Since you have the Metabo on the way (and I assume you have some kind of DA like a PC available also) you might try the approach I'd use. Substitute your favorite products for the ones I use, but I'd stay in the same general range of aggressiveness.



If it were mine I'd hit it once *lightly* with the rotary and a fairly mild product (probably 3M PI-III RC 05933 with a polishing pad) then hit it again with that using the Cyclo (still polishing pad), then a milder polish (probably 3M PI-III MG 05937/polishing pad). Then I'd cuss a little about all the pitting that'll still be there and probably end up using #80, then a glaze, then a wax.



Resist the temptation to do *just a little more* with the rotary ;) Be careful with it and remember that you don't have all that much paint on there. Inspect under different lights (including sunlight) frequently. Don't do the whole car without checking for stuff like holograms.
 
animes2k said:
Accumulator - thanks for the info... To be absolutely clear (ha!) are you saying to leave the existing pitting or go ahead and polish it out a *bit* and live with the more minor pitting?
Click to expand...



Since the pitting would bug me, I'd polish it out a *little bit* but I wouldn't attempt to really "fix" the problem. I'm a big fan of keeping the clear as thick as you can but I know you want to try to improve it somewhat. I wouldn't try to have it repainted either, IMO you'd be opening a different can of worms. And no way would I let the dealer/etc. touch it.



Having tried to fix something like this on an Outback with just a PC and 6-6.5" pads, I'm pretty sure you won't get too far with that kind approach, let alone by hand. Since you have the Metabo on the way (and I assume you have some kind of DA like a PC available also) you might try the approach I'd use. Substitute your favorite products for the ones I use, but I'd stay in the same general range of aggressiveness.



If it were mine I'd hit it once *lightly* with the rotary and a fairly mild product (probably 3M PI-III RC 05933 with a polishing pad) then hit it again with that using the Cyclo (still polishing pad), then a milder polish (probably 3M PI-III MG 05937/polishing pad). Then I'd cuss a little about all the pitting that'll still be there and probably end up using #80, then a glaze, then a wax.



Resist the temptation to do *just a little more* with the rotary ;) Be careful with it and remember that you don't have all that much paint on there. Inspect under different lights (including sunlight) frequently. Don't do the whole car without checking for stuff like holograms.
 
thanks for the detailed suggestion.



I've got the 3M PI2 RC (fine cut), DACP, SSR2.5, Menzerna IP, all of which should be about the same level of cut, if I'm not mistaken. I've read that DACP is sort of a PITA on a rotary, tho and I haven't been too fond of the amount of dusting I get with the 3M. I also have some Optimum polish on the way.



I do also have a PC, #80, FP, VM...



...and a plethora of pads. I'm a bit of a product whore at the moment... :P



I think I'd finish with RMG and #16, possibly using P21S as an upkeep wax. I initially put about 5 coats of Zaino on there, which gave nice reflectivity, but I think I could probably deal with a natural wax. I've been impressed with the longevity and looks of #16 on my finace's Tercel (this car is meant to replace that one, as soon as she gets comfortable with driving stick).



Thanks again for the info. I'll cut my teeth with the metabo on the 2 beater cars I've got over here.
 
thanks for the detailed suggestion.



I've got the 3M PI2 RC (fine cut), DACP, SSR2.5, Menzerna IP, all of which should be about the same level of cut, if I'm not mistaken. I've read that DACP is sort of a PITA on a rotary, tho and I haven't been too fond of the amount of dusting I get with the 3M. I also have some Optimum polish on the way.



I do also have a PC, #80, FP, VM...



...and a plethora of pads. I'm a bit of a product whore at the moment... :P



I think I'd finish with RMG and #16, possibly using P21S as an upkeep wax. I initially put about 5 coats of Zaino on there, which gave nice reflectivity, but I think I could probably deal with a natural wax. I've been impressed with the longevity and looks of #16 on my finace's Tercel (this car is meant to replace that one, as soon as she gets comfortable with driving stick).



Thanks again for the info. I'll cut my teeth with the metabo on the 2 beater cars I've got over here.
 
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