How do you test clear hardness before polishing?

Accumulator

Well-known member
2007TBSS- Yeah, pick a test spot other than your hood, just in case.



I'd make an educated guess regarding the starting point. Your TBSS? It's gonna be hard.



Generally, I seldom start with a *VERY* gentle combo unless I have a good reason to think it'll work. M205/LC tangerine HydroTech might be a good middle-of-the-road starting point.



Try your test combo on the test spot and see if it's appropriate. If it is, carry on. If not, try something more/less aggressive depending on how the initial test went.



Find something that's appropriate for most of the vehicle. If you have a few nasty RIDS you want to work on, don't pick am overall, whole-vehicle combo based on *those*, treat them as a special case. Ditto for any areas that need unusually extra-gentle treatment. Find a "working combo" that'll handle most of the vehicle and then tackle the special/problem areas separately.



Passes? Eh...I'd just work the product until it's done, because that's what's "normal" and you want to find a combo that'll work on most of the vehicle without doing anything weird/special.
 
When you start on a vehicle, how do you test to see what the "least invasive" method is? Hood with a few squares taped off and labeled? One pad, 2 polishes in 2 separate squares? I have heard about passes. Do 3 passes and wipe/check and then do 3 more if needed and check again? I know I'm pole vaulting over mouse turds here, but I'm kinda confused about how to get started.



Thanks!
 
So even though the Megs combo I got isn't a diminishing polish, the carrier oils will still turn Vaseline like when it's been properly worked?
 
Accumulator once gave me great advice, never use your hood as the test section. If something were to go wrong, that would be the most glaringly obvious spot of your car.
 
2007TBSS said:
When you start on a vehicle, how do you test to see what the "least invasive" method is?



YOu *could* start by trying some *VERY* gentle combo. While I'd do that on vehicle likely to have very soft clear, on most vehicles I'd just see what M205/polishing pad does.

Hood with a few squares taped off and labeled? One pad, 2 polishes in 2 separate squares?



No need to tape off the test spot IMO. Don't make this really complicated, there's no need ;)



Just find a representative area (marring "average" for that vehicle) that's easy to work on/inspect. Then do as I suggested in my previous reply. See if M205/polishing pad works effectively and efficiently. If not, I'd more right on to M105 unless you're working on something with really soft paint. If you're doing the TBSS, don't be surprised if even M105/cutting pad requires several tries to get significant marring out. Just don't overdo it and don't get careless.




I have heard about passes. Do 3 passes and wipe/check and then do 3 more if needed and check again?



Again, check my previous reply ;)



Prime the pad properly (ala KBM).



Work a 1' x 1' area (no, not something larger) at a high speed (speed 5 with 4" pads, speed 6 with larger ones). Apply some pressure but not so much that the pad doesn't rotate. Move the polisher somewhat slowly across that area- back/forth, up/down, diagonal right/diagonal left...and after those six movements the product will probably be about done. Yeah, it happens fast; you won't be working the area for a full minute unless the area's too big or you used way too much product.







I know I'm pole vaulting over mouse turds here, but I'm kinda confused about how to get started.



Eh, I think you oughta pick *one* panel and plan on working on that for this session. DON'T plan on doing the whole vehicle, just allocate a few hours (yeah, a few hours) to doing one area. If things go *so* smoothly that you end up doing more, cool.



So even though the Megs combo I got isn't a diminishing polish, the carrier oils will still turn Vaseline like when it's been properly worked?



No, the oils/etc. will just dry out, leaving dried polish mixed with cut-off clear. YOU DON'T WANT THAT. Sorry to shout, but once these products really dry they can be a real PIA to get off, and since M105 stays just as abrasive as ever it can really mar things up if you buff it off aggressively. And you dont want dried product on your pads, recipe for serious hazing.



I found the instructions on the M105 label pretty simple and it was quite easy to have things go OK. BUT, I still think it's good to use a spritz of #34 when buffing off M105 residue, just because it stays so abrasive.
 
Alright, thanks again!



Haha, I think my problem is I have way too much time to think and not enough time to actually polish. Should have some free time next weekend. I hope.
 
Accumulator said:
Eh, I think you oughta pick *one* panel and plan on working on that for this session. DON'T plan on doing the whole vehicle, just allocate a few hours (yeah, a few hours) to doing one area. If things go *so* smoothly that you end up doing more, cool.



This is what I was going to do actually for a few reasons. 1) I was going to pick my roof and since I have a 4x4 pickup truck noone will see it if I make a mistake on it, and it's an easy area for me to start out on. 2) Since my order will arrive after my normal 2 days off but before my wife and I go on a little vacation I won't have whole days to work continuously on my truck. So I thought I would wash, clay, dry, paint correct, seal and wax a section of the truck each day after I get off work. With any luck the weather will cooperate for me to get nearly finished before we head out of town. This will also help me not get to overwhelmed with a whole vehicle project at the very beginning. I'll do a detailers spray down after all areas have been hit just to "even" things out a bit as needed.
 
jayhkr- That sounds like a good way to keep it from getting overwhelming. Some people might argue against an approach like that, but in your situation it sounds perfect to me. Try to protect the areas not being worked as best you can; thin plastic sheeting from Lowe's/etc. is very cheap and works OK IME.
 
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