How deep of a scratch will SSR2.5 take out? Find out in here

Martinrulz said:
I tried out my ssr2.5 via PC on a section on my hood. Just going back and forth for about 1 minute on speed 3-4. I noticed no difference at all after buffing if off. Should I be buffing longer or bump the speed up to 5 or somthing or maybe a combo of both?
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I do all polishing on speed 5 or 6. How big of a section were you working? If you move real fast over the area, there won't be any heat generated to work the polish, and you won't get any results from the polish. Furthermore, speeds 3 and 4 are too slow to be using with a polish anyway.
 
White95Max said:
I do all polishing on speed 5 or 6. How big of a section were you working? If you move real fast over the area, there won't be any heat generated to work the polish, and you won't get any results from the polish. Furthermore, speeds 3 and 4 are too slow to be using with a polish anyway.
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good to know i was doing it right, crank that speed up!
 
White95Max said:
I do all polishing on speed 5 or 6. How big of a section were you working? If you move real fast over the area, there won't be any heat generated to work the polish, and you won't get any results from the polish. Furthermore, speeds 3 and 4 are too slow to be using with a polish anyway.
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I just tried doing the left side of my hood to see if it did anything. The section went the whole length of the hood about 1 foot wide. So speeds 5 and 6 for all polish? Besides the ssr2.5, I follow that up with either poorboys polish with carnuba or VM hand glaze and then CMW for wax. Whats a good speed for wax?
 
Yeah doing that big of a section in one minute on speed 3 or 4 is nothing. You need to spend that much time on a 1' x 1' area on speed 5 or 6 to do any real work.



I apply waxes/sealants at speed 3. You don't need to work at high speed, because all you're trying to do is lay down an even coat of product. You aren't working it into the paint or polishing with it.

With something like VM or PwC, I'd use a polishing pad on speed 4 or 5. They are light polishes which also leave behind a coat of wax. A faster speed would be beneficial to get the most out of the polish.
 
I must be doing something wrong with my PC, I have never felt heat transfer from the machine. I am going to try this weekend and see what happens.



From what I can gather, you are saying that had you continued to polish with the PC in that spot, that you would have burned through the clear? Is that correct? If the paint was burning to the touch and you would have continued to polish then it would have continued to heat, right? Maybe I have a weak PC? Or maybe you have a ringer. :)
 
OK this morning I tried yet again to remove some swirls on my hood with my PC and light cutting pad to no avail. Worked on a 1x1 surface area on a speed of 5 for 2-3 minutes with SSR2.5 and it looks the same. :wall I don't get it!
 
What kind of car is it?

SSR2.5 always makes a noticeable difference for me. Did you use any pressure? Make sure to at least allow the weight of the machine to be pushing down on the pad.

Also, how fast were you moving the PC? You should only be moving the machine ~1" per second. Also try bumping it up to speed 6.



To avoid sling-off on speed 6, spread the polish around on speed 1 or 2, and then bump it up to speed 6 to work it in.
 
It's a 2002 Mustang GT, laser tint red in color. I really don't press down at all on the PC as I just let the machine do the work. MOving really slow. Just thought of something, do I need to clay it or something to get down the the clearcoat, then use the ssr2.5?
 
It shouldn't matter whether it's been clayed or not...the polish should still work the same. It's usually a good idea to clay first though, since many people are often left with some marring from the clay.
 
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