Holograms? Buffer trails? Rotary questions PIC

Perfectly said.



TH0001 said:
I think you can finish SIP/Orange down marring free, but I would feel that in most cases you are going to have hologramming.



If I use wool, I usually will go over it with SIP/White, then finish with 106 or UF with a gray or blue pad to ensure its perfect. Of course the paint dictates the process.
 
I have just gotten into the habit of finishing with ultrafina on any color that could show any type of trail.



Proper technique can seriously limit the liklihood of them, but finishing out with a really fine polish and a finishing pad is just good insurance for having a perfect finish. I just like knowing that it is going to be perfect when it leaves and down the road, rather than hoping that everything went ok even though I cut some corners.
 
i don't think whoever did that meant to do it and is unexperience.. he might of tried to finish it down with a lighter polish but didnt work it long enough. polish will fill swirls, making it appear gone until the next day.. maybe even longer if its top off with wax.
 
Looks like this guy was just in a rush to finish this vehicle. I've found that you can not

rush when correcting paint. It causes double work. You'll have to do it again! :buffing: :buffing:
 
Buffer trails are mainly caused by 2 things. Too aggressive pads when finishing and/or too aggressive finish polish.



When correcting you can use wool, orange pad, yellow pad, or even an aggressive compound on a white polish LC pad. Depending on the hardness/softness of the paint follow with a medium to light polish polish on a white LC pad. Then always finish off with a blue LC finishing pad with 106, 85rd, 87mc, 3M UF.



On softer black finicky paints, you can correct with a med. polish on a white or green polish pad and then finish with a blue pad with a finish polish.



NOTE: Using a white LC pad via rotary to finish off with on certain paints WILL leave very minute buffer trails. Always do a IPA wipedown and inspect your work. One could finish off good with a white pad, but you have to keep the heat to a minimum and keep the pad WET at all times. When the pad gets dry, that's when you will encounter problems, as you might not see them under halogens, they will be visible under halogens. If you top with a lsp, the lsp will fill them until they wear away.
 
If you guys just finished off with a PC with the proper technique you wouldn't have to worry about leaving these buffer trails behind, or worry about what products you need to use to conceal them.
 
Rotary usage for finishing



LC blue pad and 3M ultrafina will remove them all and leave a perfect REAL finish. Works superb even on the softest black paints.
 
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