Highline vs Positest DFT

Deep Gloss Auto Salon said:



Very much so. The problem for automotive use though is two things:

1. You won't actually be able to measure three individual layers despite cars having at least 4 layers of different substances.

2. The device isn't made for automotive use, and because of how inaccurate it is when used on cars - they won't even market the device for vehicle paint.





Tru_Shine, sorry to bust the bubble on ultrasonic thickness gauges. The good news is that that can still be used on cars, and can be a great tool - as long as you understand the pro's and con's of the device. When it comes down to it - an ultrasonic thickness gauge is the only way to take any reading (regardless of how accurate) on surfaces like carbon fiber, fiberglass, plastic, wood, etc.



here's a longer reply that better explains ultrasonic gauges that I wrote not that long ago: http://www.autopia.org/forum/profes...n/127276-paint-depth-gauge-5.html#post1355698
 
Tru_Shine said:
Which one? A/B/C

Std or Adv?

the one for wood and stuff?

so many different ones to choose from?



I know Elcometer has a "total layer thickness" ultrasonic gauge that runs around $1000-1100 and that may be the cheapest ultrasonic gauge I know of.
 
Thanks for the good info Marc!





I've had the HighLine II for over a year now and it has worked very well for me! I honestly can't imagine the DFT being worth the price difference. I feel the HLII is solidly built and I get very quick readings. If money were no object to me I would probably got with the DFT though. ;)



Highline.jpg




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Tru_Shine said:
metals like steel are ferrous (magnets will stick to it)

metals like aluminum and titanium are non-ferrous (Magnets will NOT stick to them)



So that means the Highline meter I and II will read all metals.

Most of the positest only work on ferrous metals, but they do have a combo one.



The highline meters are very accurate and are a budget paint thickness gauge that gets the job done on all metals (without calibration every time you switch) . If you want to see how thick the clear coat is then just check under the hood where there isn't any clear coat. then check a surface with clear coat, and then the difference is roughly the thickness of clear coat only.



I really wanted to hear that the ultra sonic ones were not crap. what would you recomend for C6 vette's and other carbon fiber/plastic surfaces?



He wasn't trying to offend you, but your were misleading the people who have no idea about all this because you were confused on what ferrous and non ferrous actually was.. dont take offense to it :thx



Thats all i have to say. love you guys! group hug!:LOLOL

If the Highline reads exactly the same surfaces that the Positest does, then why don't they list it as such ? Or even mention it when you inquire about it ? Has anyone actually tested the Highline to ensure it will read brass and copper ?



Not a bad idea on a method to check clear vs base by using under the hood. However, is the under-hood paint sprayed exactly the same as the over-hood ?



I don't know much about the ultra-sonic gauges, I haven't done much research into those at all. So no idea what should be used on carbon-fiber and such surfaces.



Ummmmm, no, I'm not confused, but rather have taken what both companies are advertising. If one company chooses to leave out materials their gauge will work on, then that isn't really my fault.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Whaddya mean, the part where if you buy a Highline you won't be able to use it on any brass or copper cars?



Barry Theal said:
:LOLOL yea something like that!:funnypost

lol :funnypost Of course I know brass and copper are irrelavant for vehicle applications (what we detailers would use them for), but it's still a feature none the less. It's like saying you bought a car with heated seats, yet you live in California and won't ever use them. It's still an option.
 
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