Hi Temp Prodcut line...

I keep 'em separate and I don't put much OP on the pad because I don't want to diminish the cut of the H-T EC too much. I've actually done OK with it straight too, it didn't flash off all *that* fast (by rotary).



I mix 1z Ultra with it when I want serious cutting, it extends the work time a *LOT* but is also an aggressive product in its own right.



MorBid said:
I honestly am troubled by seeing all this used of HT Extreme Cut in as much that I can't imagine what someone would need that kind of correction for.



Considering HCL takes out water spot's/Etching and scratches down to about 1000 grit.
Click to expand...



It is just *so* weird how experiences vary so much...I keep scratching my head about why both EC and HC are so mild! I'm doing many, many passes on the M3 with the H-T EC/rotary/cutting pad/pressure/etc. and it's just barely denting the marring! Compared with stuff like 3M PI-III EC 05936 this stuff is *mild* for me :nixweiss



The HC seems about on par with PI-III RC 05933, and it sure won't take out etching/1K scratches on the vehicles I've used it on :nixweiss Heh heh, my wife's A8 has the etching to prove it (after some aggressive rotary work).



No, no, the above isn't an :argue it's just surprising to me how effective/aggressive people are finding these products. I *like* 'em, but they don't work the sort of miracles for me that they do for others.
 
That is weird Accumulator. I go to EC on the "tough" stuff, and haven't met a scratch it won't remove or seriously reduce. On that Camry I posted last week (the really beat up one), I used EC/OP and it ate that marring. I'm going to post some C&B's right now, one was a Benz Wagon with some seriously hard paint I used HC on (no OP) and it not only got through the marring but finished down incredibly clean. Very odd.
 
Picus-Yeah, I agree this is funny.. the M3 is taking maybe 8 very aggressive passes with the rotary/H-T EC to get *most* of the marring out and at that point it's still not perfect. Yeah, I oughta be using wool (or the sandpaper my painter recommended) but still...this thing sure doesn't look like a horror show to me, nothing like the BMWs that Totoland Mach does all the time :nixweiss



When I used the H-T EC on the Blazer I could get to the "better stop there and live with it" point after 2-3 passes. Maybe I'm just going for too much improvement on the M3 but it's weird to still see the same scratches after repeated aggressive passes.
 
Picus said:
That is weird Accumulator. I go to EC on the "tough" stuff, and haven't met a scratch it won't remove or seriously reduce. On that Camry I posted last week (the really beat up one), I used EC/OP and it ate that marring. I'm going to post some C&B's right now, one was a Benz Wagon with some seriously hard paint I used HC on (no OP) and it not only got through the marring but finished down incredibly clean. Very odd.
Click to expand...



Picus were you using a rotary, and what pad/wool?



Have you or Accumulator tried the EC and HC with a Porter Cable or Cyclo? If so did it work well or what?

Changeling
 
I've also used Extreme Cut mixed with some Optimum Polish (50/50) for excellent results. Medium cut compound which finishes down like a polish when used with a Rotary. Great for 1 step applications ;)
 
First, most if not all of Hi-Temp's products work excellent and are great values. Their levelers are some of the best polishes out there. Light Cut, Medium Cut, Heavy Cut, and Extreme Cut all work well with an orbital or Rotary. If I am correct the Light, Medium, and Heavy all use a chemical type abrasive. The Extreme Cut adds a mechanical abrasive (Aluminum Oxide). In my opinion the EC should only be reserved for heavy defects. Most other defects can be removed with the Medium or Heavy Cut. Follow that with the Light Cut and the finish will look excellent.
 
Changeling said:
Have you...tried the EC and HC with a Porter Cable or Cyclo? If so did it work well or what?
Click to expand...



The H-T EC works OK by PC/Cyclo but I'd add something to increase the work time so that the abrasives have a chance to break down. Not sure it's *necessary* but that's what I've always done. I've used both OP and 1z Ultra/Extra with good results. The HC works fine too.
 
Changeling said:
Picus were you using a rotary, and what pad/wool?



Have you or Accumulator tried the EC and HC with a Porter Cable or Cyclo? If so did it work well or what?

Changeling
Click to expand...



Mostly yellow or orange LC pads. Sometimes wool (rarely); almost always rotary (makita). I posted that cb, it's called "10 days a lot of car" or something similar. On the Mercedes it was an orange LC pad @ 1600 rpm.



I've used both with a PC. EC doesn't break down as well as by rotary. HC is pretty good via PC; good cut and good finish (in my experience); it gums up the pads after a few panels though.
 
brwill2005 said:
If I am correct the Light, Medium, and Heavy all use a chemical type abrasive. The Extreme Cut adds a mechanical abrasive (Aluminum Oxide)..
Click to expand...



I alway wonder about claims that products contain "chemical" abrasives as opposed to "mechanical" abrasives. As I understand it, abrasion is a mechanical process, at least where paint is concerned; it's not like a chemical in a leveler "chemically dissolves/emulsifies/eats away the paint" to smooth it over, it smooths/levels it by "sanding" it down via abrasives that are harder than the paint is.



I/the dealership used *gallons* of H-T LC leveler back in the day (still have some here) and I've used some HC just recently. Both contain physically abrasive material that I'd consider "mechanical" abrasives :nixweiss



brwill2005- Pleast don't take the above as an :argue as I believe you're relaying info that you got somewhere and I'm perfectly open to being proven wrong about this.
 
The information came both from TOL and Anthony Orosco. The other source is the product container. I thought hard about this myself. I could not understand how a chemical can cut away paint. HT EC does contain Aluminum Oxide, which is definitely a potent abrasive. It also contains Kaolin Clay. Both of these mediums definitely cut paint mechanically by abrading away the paint. The other levelers; LC, MC, and HC do not contain Aluminum Oxide or Kaolin Clay. LC and MC are solvent based and HC is water based. As most of us know, certain solvents can cut paint; I.E. mineral spirits. Would that not be a chemical abrasive? I am curious as to the real answer behind these questions. The point I was making was basically that EC is a potent product and should be reserved for extreme defects.
 
i love the HT Fine Finish. Although its the only PwC ive used, it works very well as a one step on a rotary and is the perfect cure for oxidized paint :)
 
I'd be interested to know how HC works particularly. In terms of cut to finish it seems to me to be one of the most disparate products I've ever used. It cuts like SSR2.5/OHC (in between PG and IP) but finishes, in many cases, as well as FPII.
 
brwill2005- Glad you didn't take my post the wrong way.



IMO there's *something* abrasive in these products and they all work via mechanical action. It's hard to know just what's in a product and what the stuff that *is* in it does (e.g.- the Kaolin Clay is often functionally nonabrasive, depends on how the product is formulated).



If you rub a piece of very soft material (not paint) with those "chemical abrasives" the material will simply get scratched so IMO it's not a solvent action going on; I've used chemicals/solvents to smooth materials and it looks different from scratches.



I too get curious about this stuff at times but straight, unambiguous info that makes sense can sometimes be hard to come by. The info I've received from people whom I'm willing to rely on (e.g. Ron Ketchum at AutoInt) usually convinces me that this stuff is actually very simple and less mysterious/unfathomable than a lot of folks would like me to think. At the end of the day, I just :think: :nixweiss about a lot of the stuff people tell me and I usually end up going by first-hand experience. And in that regard, I agree with you that the EC oughta be reserved for the jobs that truly *need* it.
 
brwill2005- If you do call them (and get straight answers that make sense, hope that didn't sound snotty :o ) I hope you'll post about it as I (and undoubtedly others) would find it interesting. Some manufacturers give good, straight answers and others...uhm...don't. With any luck Hi-Temp will do the former.
 
brwill2005 said:
I may just give Hi-Temp a phone call.
Click to expand...



Ask them if they have Klean or Prep Wash, really useful for wiping panels down! Accumulator, from what I heard from HiTemp stuff is simple and works, just a tiny bit overloaded with lubricants.



Personally like the EC/OP Mix and that's it. Having used MedCut, I didn't like the feel or the result.
 
Wasn't all that impressed with Bubble Bath today... suds went away in my wash bucket while I was doing the wheels (easy five spokes). It did seem to sheet pretty well. Cleaning power was average.. I'd compare to Optimum in its cleaning power. Scent was allright. Left a nice shine. I'll stick with Maxi-Suds until I run out then, DG it is.



Grape Dressing.... Full strength on tires.... perhaps my favorite looking tire dressing thus far. Shine is nice, but not obnoxious... gives a nice low sheen. I diluted 1:1 for the wells.. again, nice look so far.



Will be trying Heavy Cut about 80:20 with RMG on a few details coming up.
 
rydawg said:
I used EC the other day and it worked very well. I used it on a beat up lincoln with severe scratches and the car needed a wool pad to budge these suckers. I used EC on wool and 1000-1200 rpm and they all came out very well. Any higher speeds it wanted to bind the pads, but at 1100 rpm it worked awesome. I was quite impressed how well it worked at such a low rpm. Finished up with a foam and a finish polish and it was perfect. Working at such a low rpm on wool is safe and there was very little trail marks. The foam and finish polish took care of it very easily!



I did try their light cut last year and did not care for it at all, but the EC worked perfect!
Click to expand...



Ryan, how do you compare HTEC with Ultra Cutting Creme?

I don't know if Ultra Cutting Creme is similar to HT-3 Heavy Cut Compound or HT-22 Extreme Cut Compound...
 
Well I only tested it on one car with some major defects and I did do a comparison side by side. Note: It was a badly hammered car. I tested on my Hitachi rotory with a cutting foam and a cutting wool. Sorry no pics!



Ultra cutting creme regular(not the light)- designed for wool pads, but works well with foam.

I only reccomend it for pro's and use caution as it is very abrasive. It removed defects fast and on this car I needed to hit it twice cause it was in very bad shape. Foam pad worked very good at 1100 to 1500 rpm. On wool it worked really well at 1500 to 2000 rpm.

Had some dust that washed off easy.



HTEC- designed for foam cutting pads

I got this sample from a great member here and I am not sure if it had OP added, so I did not add anything.

Has a perfect balance of smaller grit and chemical cleaner in it that works very well. It worked much longer but it took it's time and did it's job perfect with no spatter or dust and clean up was easy.

On a foam cutting pad at 1100-1500 rpm it worked well and removed the defects. It however did take longer but that was ok and is much safer to work with.

Now on wool, I used a little bit and it had a little tough time and gummed up a bit. I was not giving up till I could figure a way it could work on wool. After trying many techniques, the best results I got was, on clean wool pad use a little bit, use only at 1000-1200 rpm max and no more. At this slow speed it performed very well and took out the defects and left a very deep gloss. I would say this procedure is safe at such a low rpm with such great results. The wool out performed the foam and at a lower rpm and the gloss was DEEP! Oh ya...very little marring. I am glad I spent time and found the learning curve! Clean up was very easy and nothing in the cracks. Note: on wool do not exceed more than 1100 rpm or it will skip and hop. Spur the pad as needed and us QD to break the polish down and will work perfect for wool pads.



The end result...

Both did an excellent job. The ultra regular left a clearer finish and EC had a more cloudy look maybe due to the Kayolin clay or something, but 106ff took care of that and both need a finish polish anyway. After hitting both with a finish polish, they both looked flawless and could not tell the difference.



I would recomend EC to everyone who details and it was a very nice product and safer to use. For the price it is very cheap and well worth it and it works.

It does not feel gritty for such a heavy duty contender, but that is good.



I will be adding HT-EC to my nice collection of best products that I have collected over the years. :2thumbs:



I hope this helps you and most!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top