Hi new here

Bobby G

New member
by David W. Bynon

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Many people assume that waxing and polishing are synonymous. In fact, they are two different processes. Professional detailers and show-car owners know the secret to an award-winning finish is properly cleaning and polishing the surface prior to glazing and waxing.



All paints age from exposure to ultraviolet light, pollution and acid rain. Beautiful finishes gradually become dull and chalky. Waxing over these surfaces will only create a slight gloss over dull paint. To reveal the paint's true vitality, vibrancy, and depth, it must be polished.



Polishing deep cleans the paint. It also removes oxidation, old wax and minor swirl marks. The result is a rejuvenated top paint layer, which is then ready for waxing. Polishing insures a uniform, high gloss shine.



Selecting a polish can be intimidating for the enthusiast. There are hundreds from which to choose, each having different abrasive or "cut" capability. There are polishes for clear coat and non-clear coat finishes. You will also need to choose the correct product for hand application or machine application. It is beyond the scope of this article to delve into each category and evaluate the various brands available. For simplification, lets categorize cars into two groups:



Selecting a polish for cars less than three years old:



Polishing a newer car once a year will maintain the car's showroom-new appearance for years to come. Newer cars usually have a clear coat finish. Select a non-abrasive polish that is safe for clear coat finishes. Three polishes in this category are Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion, P21S Paintwork Cleanser, and 3M Perfect-It. All three are wipe on, wipe off lotions.



Selecting a polish for cars over three years old:



If the finish on your car is well maintained, continue with one of the three polishes listed above. If your car's finish is dull, cloudy, or chalky, it will require a polish with a light abrasive. Meguiar's No. 2 Fine Cut Cleaner is a good choice if the paint surface does not have heavy swirl marks or bad oxidation. If the paint is oxidized or have a lot of surface marks, you will need to first use a light rubbing compound, such as 3M Perfect-It Paste.



Polishing Tips:



Once you've selected the correct polish, here are some tips to make polishing easier:



1. Work on one area at a time covering 2 to 4 square feet. Buff off residues as you go. This allows you to discover any problems early before polishing the entire car.



2. Most polishes apply best with a cotton terry cloth or terry applicator pad. If the cloth or applicator becomes caked with polish, switch to a fresh applicator (you may also be using too much polish).



3. Work in a shaded area, out of direct sunlight.



4. If the polishing residue does not buff off easily, switch to a clean wipe towel.



5. Apply polishes in a back and forth motion, not circular (polishes should take out swirls, not create them… don't go in circles). If you are creating swirls, you are using a polish that is too abrasive, or you have grit on your applicator or wipe towel.



After polishing, your car's surface should be squeaky clean, smooth, and free of streaks and minor swirls.



<font size="1">All products mentioned in this article are available from Classic Motoring Accessories and are used at the buyer's own risk.  Autopia Car Care is not affiliated with and does not represent Classic Motoring Accessories or the manufacturers of the products mentioned.</font>
 
Hey Dave, Please clarify the order of doing things for me.



For instance if you were using Zymol Hd-Clense, would you use that before or after polishing with 3M Imperial Hand Glaze.



O.T. I know 3M Imperial Hand Glaze is a Polish not a Glaze, but what about Perfect it 3M Foam Polishing Pad Glaze. Is it a polish or a glaze.



Should it be used before HD-Clense or after.



Regards:bow
 
HD-Cleanse is a pre-wax clean. It has very little polishing capability. It's probably along the same lines as 3M Foam Polishing Pad Glaze, only it has more solvent for cleaning. Personally, if you don't need a glaze, I'd stick with the HD-Cleanse. If you need a glaze, or if you're trying to refine a near perfect finish, use the 3M Foam Polishing Pad Glaze after HD-Cleanse.



db
 
Thanks for the response Dave,



Its a brand new vehicle, I'm practising on my 540at the moment awaiting my M5's arrival.



I'm going to try your 6 step perfect shine. I have the Klasse AIO and Sealer GLase on their way. Also I ordered the Pinnacle soveran sizzling shine kit.



So if I 3M Clay

Pinnacle cleanser lotion

3M Foam polishing pad glaze (Is this step unnessary from new)

Klasse All-in-one

Klasse Sealant Glase x 2

Finish with Pinnacle Soveran or SWISSOL.



I was thinking of replaceing the Pinnacle clenser lotion with Zymol HD clense. Whats your thoughts.



Can you put too many coats of wax on at once?
 
I think PPCL is a much better pre-wax cleaner than Zymol's HD-Cleans, that's what I think. Both do a good job, but PPCL has a little more cleaning ability and a little less polishing action.
 
O.K. This is were I get confused. When you say pre-wax cleaner, the wax is the last thing you do. Doesn't a pre-wax cleaner go right before the wax.?



Its the introduction of the two Klasse products which makes sense to me for protection, but are confusing the order.



To complicate the issue more. Swissol has a Pre-wax Oil cleaner fluid. Should that be deleated or still used just prior to the Swissol wax.



I don't want to do something that will remove the step before and make it pointless.



I want a perfect show car shine that I will maintain. I will wax every Sunday. :D
 
First post for me on the board.



In a couple of days I am going to clean, clay, polish, and wax my mothers Lexus. It is a 1990 LS400. I really would like to find out if this a clear coat or not, so as to buy the correct polish. FWIW, the car is green.



General question - are swirl marks equally prevalent with clear coat and non clear coat paint?
 
I'm new to detailing and just picked up a PC 7424xp and a slew of pads, M105/M205, and some BFWD. I'm here to learn. I've seen threads by Mr Tru Shine and thats what wanted me to try to detail.
 
Welcome! Eric(TruShine) is a great detailer. Nice that you wanted to learn cause of him. You'll learn much more as you practice.
 
Thanks for the welcome. Also I've been seeing "RIDS" in posts. What does that mean?
 
Random Isolated Deep Scratches.
 

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