It seems the PC is the tool of choice on this forum, but I really don't want to spend the money on it as I doubt I'll use it enough to justify the cost. What I am wondering is if these cheap orbital buffers I've seen are any good, or at least better than polishing by hand. Wal Mart has a 6" palm held (i.e. no handles) one for around $20. Would there be any advantage to using something like that over doing the car by hand? Would it be worse than doing it by hand, and a complete waste of money. Any other recommendations for a weekend user not wanting (or needing) pro grade equipment?
Hi from Bethlehem,Pa.
- Thread starter JN99
- Start date
Ron Ketcham
Active member
Purchase the 9" or better, the larger 11" Craftsman Orbital, they come with bonnets and are made for polishing, applying product.
Additionally, you can easily purchase additional bonnets etc locally.
They are made by Chamberlain, are the original WaxMaster orbital, you get a great warranty, and will hold up.
We have around 40 of these in service in our shops, we distribute the big 2003 WaxMaster to professional detailers.
So, have some good history on the tool.
The Sears model is a good, long lasting unit, so that is what I would suggest.
Ketch
:up
Additionally, you can easily purchase additional bonnets etc locally.
They are made by Chamberlain, are the original WaxMaster orbital, you get a great warranty, and will hold up.
We have around 40 of these in service in our shops, we distribute the big 2003 WaxMaster to professional detailers.
So, have some good history on the tool.
The Sears model is a good, long lasting unit, so that is what I would suggest.
Ketch
:up
imported_BretFraz
New member
I have a Craftsman 11" orbital that I've used for about 15 years. Just now my pad is falling apart. Other than that it's never failed me. It's made me thousands of $$ detailing cars. Pretty good for a birthday gift.
A good orbital (non PC) will cost you $75-100 but bonnets are pretty cheap and you never switch pads.
They're great for applying waxes and polishes but don't have enough speed and torque to remove scratches and serious paint flaws.
As Ron said, your main brands are Waxmaster and Chamberlain. If you want to step up like a big dog check out buffers from Gem.
A good orbital (non PC) will cost you $75-100 but bonnets are pretty cheap and you never switch pads.
They're great for applying waxes and polishes but don't have enough speed and torque to remove scratches and serious paint flaws.
As Ron said, your main brands are Waxmaster and Chamberlain. If you want to step up like a big dog check out buffers from Gem.
Forget about the el-cheapo ones for 20$..Might as well save your money and apply by hand.
I was in your shoes also and I bought the PC..
I was going to spend about 65$ on a 9" Waxmaster and the PC is about 115$..I reasoned for an extra 50$ you get a variable speed machine plus the velcro feature for changing pads. Also there is a lot of support here if you have any questions.
If you dont get the PC at least get the 9 or 11"
Sears. I think the 11" Sears is close tothe PC in price..
Good Luck!!
I was in your shoes also and I bought the PC..
I was going to spend about 65$ on a 9" Waxmaster and the PC is about 115$..I reasoned for an extra 50$ you get a variable speed machine plus the velcro feature for changing pads. Also there is a lot of support here if you have any questions.
If you dont get the PC at least get the 9 or 11"
Sears. I think the 11" Sears is close tothe PC in price..
Good Luck!!
Ron Ketcham
Active member
One, an orbital, lots of quality bonnets
Two, a P/C dual action, with correct selection of foam pads.
Three, a variable speed rotary with the correct selection of pads.
Four, learn to use them for the correct concern.
Five, learn to never be overly agressive when using any of the tools.
Six, learn the difference in clears, paint chemistry, diagnoist abilities, etc.
Ketch
Two, a P/C dual action, with correct selection of foam pads.
Three, a variable speed rotary with the correct selection of pads.
Four, learn to use them for the correct concern.
Five, learn to never be overly agressive when using any of the tools.
Six, learn the difference in clears, paint chemistry, diagnoist abilities, etc.
Ketch
Since Santa brought me a new PC, I'll be practicing soon. My new-ish ride is going into the body shop next week (hit-n-run, no witness). When I brought in the insurance paperwork I was talking to a couple of the guys there, and asked if they could spare a junk panel for me to practice on. They were more than happy, and said I can have my choice of color, and would give me a whole door, hood, trunk, whatever I want. Keep that in mind next time you're in a shop, these guys have lots of "practice material" that they might give ya. It's more fun making and repairing scratches and swirls on practice material is my thinking... 
Clean Dean
Keep it clean !!!
You may want to check ebay for a 11" orbital. I purchased a barely used 11" Craftsman Orbital for $24 on ebay. The only downside about buying used items on ebay is usually it is an "as is" purchase. I purchased about five power tools this way, and I have not had a problem with any of these, and I have saved some $$$. Just be careful of who you buy from, and look at their feedback.
Just a suggestion.
Just a suggestion.
I took a trip to my local Sears and was surprised to see such a wide selection. 4, 6, 7, 9, 10, and 11 inch models as well as a few different versions of some 9 and 10" models packaged nicey, I am guessing, for the Christmas season. One of the 10" models was only $39.99, and a 9" was available for $49.99 and both included several bonnets and a case or 5 gal. bucket (not sure why the bucket).
All these choices ultimately led to no purchase being made yet, but left me wondering how a 9 or 10 inch buffer would work with Klasse. As so little of the stuff is meant to be used I'm not sure how to approach it with a buffer
It would seem you'd end up using more product an perhaps it would be harder to buff out? And do I buff by hand or with the buffer?
All these choices ultimately led to no purchase being made yet, but left me wondering how a 9 or 10 inch buffer would work with Klasse. As so little of the stuff is meant to be used I'm not sure how to approach it with a buffer
It would seem you'd end up using more product an perhaps it would be harder to buff out? And do I buff by hand or with the buffer?We're Here
New member
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >
<em class='bbc'>[/i]
<strong class='bbc'>Good point CleanDean. But, since it's a Craftsman, it has a lifetime warranty right? So, if something's wrong with it, he can just take it back to Sears and get a brand new one. [/b]</blockquote>Unfortunately, not true. The Craftsman "lifetime" warranty applies to hand tools only. I recently learned about their warranty limitations when my solid chrome finish, 25-year old Craftsman torque wrench failed. Learned the hard way that in Sears' warranty lexicon, a torque wrench isn't a hand tool!
<em class='bbc'>[/i]
<strong class='bbc'>Good point CleanDean. But, since it's a Craftsman, it has a lifetime warranty right? So, if something's wrong with it, he can just take it back to Sears and get a brand new one. [/b]</blockquote>Unfortunately, not true. The Craftsman "lifetime" warranty applies to hand tools only. I recently learned about their warranty limitations when my solid chrome finish, 25-year old Craftsman torque wrench failed. Learned the hard way that in Sears' warranty lexicon, a torque wrench isn't a hand tool!
imported_maesal
New member
So what if I already have a cheapo orbital (MVP brand, if you must know). Would it be to my advantage to just go by hand until I can afford a PC?
If all you want to do is apply/remove than you don't need to spend the $$ for a PC.
If you want something that can get out swirls and minor scratches and dont already have an existing machine, then there is no use in buying a cheaper one. Better to save the $$ for the PC or an equivalent. Nothing wrong with the "cheaper" models, you just cant expect the same performance as a PC..
If you want something that can get out swirls and minor scratches and dont already have an existing machine, then there is no use in buying a cheaper one. Better to save the $$ for the PC or an equivalent. Nothing wrong with the "cheaper" models, you just cant expect the same performance as a PC..
Chuckmotor
New member
Does size matter? Obviously it does because they range from, what, 5-11 inches? But what is the advantage, other than covering surface area, for buying a bigger buffer? Or is a smaller one better?
I'd appreciate an answer, but none of this "it's not the size that matters, it's how you use it" reply that I've heard before. If I went to Sears and bought a buffer, how would I know what size to pick out?
I'd appreciate an answer, but none of this "it's not the size that matters, it's how you use it" reply that I've heard before. If I went to Sears and bought a buffer, how would I know what size to pick out?
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >
<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by Chuckmotor [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>Does size matter? Obviously it does because they range from, what, 5-11 inches? But what is the advantage, other than covering surface area, for buying a bigger buffer? Or is a smaller one better?
I'd appreciate an answer, but none of this "it's not the size that matters, it's how you use it" reply that I've heard before. If I went to Sears and bought a buffer, how would I know what size to pick out? [/b]</blockquote>
When I went to Sear's, I knew I wanted their smallest buffer which was the 6" model. I wanted the smallest one because I previously borrowed a 10" buffer and it was hard to use around the small areas of the car. With the 10", I ended doing a lot of the car by hand as the 10" was too big.
The 6" was perfect and it was able to cover the small areas of the car. I have the Craftsman 6" buffer. Was only $20 early this year.
<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by Chuckmotor [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>Does size matter? Obviously it does because they range from, what, 5-11 inches? But what is the advantage, other than covering surface area, for buying a bigger buffer? Or is a smaller one better?
I'd appreciate an answer, but none of this "it's not the size that matters, it's how you use it" reply that I've heard before. If I went to Sears and bought a buffer, how would I know what size to pick out? [/b]</blockquote>
When I went to Sear's, I knew I wanted their smallest buffer which was the 6" model. I wanted the smallest one because I previously borrowed a 10" buffer and it was hard to use around the small areas of the car. With the 10", I ended doing a lot of the car by hand as the 10" was too big.
The 6" was perfect and it was able to cover the small areas of the car. I have the Craftsman 6" buffer. Was only $20 early this year.
Desertfox66
New member
When I first started with my detailing obsession I bought a 9" Waxmaster. My car was new and had very few swirls so the Waxmaster turned out to be a good tool for product removal. When I tried to attack the swirls in my wifes minivan; however, I was really disappointed in the inability of the Waxmaster to touch them.
I debated for over a year before I bought a PC7424. I haven't regretted it and even worked on a couple of friends cars with it with great success, for which I recouped the cost of the machine.
Just some food for thought.
I debated for over a year before I bought a PC7424. I haven't regretted it and even worked on a couple of friends cars with it with great success, for which I recouped the cost of the machine.
Just some food for thought.
Old Pirate
AMG Classic Car Detailing
Welcome to Truth In Detailing 314wolf! lots of great folks here that can help you out and if you still have questions you can call me at PAC:-c
imported_Flash Gordon
New member
Welcome to TruthInDetailing 314wolf. Hope to see you around Da Rules!