Help with spoiler

G

glen e

Retired Geezer
Help with spoiler respray

In the pics you can see that my spoiler - which was painted at dealer- and is a bolt on, does not have the same gloss as the car itself. I fear that no amount of correction can bring it back to the car gloss as it is missing some clear coat. I have polished it, and have it pretty good but it's not the same. Am I reading this right that it probably needs to be re-shot with clear?
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It defiantly lacks clarity. You say it's missing some clear. Like in that you have polished through it or was never cleared.
 
rzatch said:
It defiantly lacks clarity. You say it's missing some clear. Like in that you have polished through it or was never cleared.
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it has not been polished to any great degree, so I know I have not polished it off, it has been more or less matte since delivery. I think it's basecoat with no clear....maybe opti-coat?
 
update: aw hell guys, I'm gonna respray it myself - spoiler off car and 1st coat just went on, pics later
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so I clayed, quick ultimate compound, ISP and then 3 thin coats - 1 thicker coat - I'll let it cure for a week and compound it out next week - stay tuned!
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TroyScherer said:
Very cool Glen. Let us know how it turns out.
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oh no, you're not getting off that easy guys, what do I do next? - using mike's adage of use the least aggressive possible - what's the 1st product used? can I do this with my GGDA or do I need my flex (still a bit nervous about this machine on curves like here)....anyone got a schedule I can use?

I was thinking a polishing pad on the flex at 1500 using 501 or UC? or the DA?
 
It's more than very common for dealers to less than quality paint work. If you suspect color coat only then put some paint cleaner or polish on a cloth and rub a spot. If it is color coat only then you likely see red on your cloth which means no clear, just color...
 
passed that test bobby, no red...it's just thin clear....what plan do you suggest once the clear cures and how long will that be? couple days?
 
You already started spraying the Dupli-Color cleat coat? So if there was no color coming up, why did you assume the clear coat was thin?
 
glen e said:
oh no, you're not getting off that easy guys, what do I do next? - using mike's adage of use the least aggressive possible - what's the 1st product used? can I do this with my GGDA or do I need my flex (still a bit nervous about this machine on curves like here)....anyone got a schedule I can use?

I was thinking a polishing pad on the flex at 1500 using 501 or UC? or the DA?
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Hi Glen,

Did you wet-sand the color coat with something like 1000 prior to applying the clear to ensure proper adhesion?

Cleaning the surface with something like Dupont Prep-Sol or Klean Strip Prep All is very desirable in order to remove oils, silicone's, and other contaminates that could interfere with the clear bonding to the color..

Let the clear stand for a few days before you begin sanding and polishing.

Once your ready to finish the panel you'll want to wet-sand the clear with 1500 and 2000 grit then begin a regiment of compound and polish. You could begin with something more course but better to go slower when wet-sanding.

Meguiar's Ultimate Compound is a great product to begin with.
 
scuffed it with 3000 grit and a clean off of acetone...again, no red so I know it's got clear...

yeah - I will wet sand again and then start with UC and orange pad, then white or blue pad with 151.......I'm in no hurry, it's a practice piece (might even leave it off - spoilers on a 4 cyl are a bit boy racer, lol) getting up the guts to use my flex 3403
 
The only problem I see is you just sprayed laquer over urethane without sanding or scuffing the panel.
You can't do the opposite because laquer color/clear products are thermo elastic the result would be cracking later on hard surfaces (metal) There are some professional laquer products that do work but they are primer based. Laquer is nice for plastic in one sense that it moves with the expansion and contration. Enamels are catalized therefore requiring a flex additive to prevent shattering on impacts. If you have ever seen a plastic bumper that has been repainted then bumped with paint flaking off you know what I'm talking about.
There is also not enough clear in that can to provide sufficient film thickness due to atomization and amout of clear that actually hits the panel to do any sanding or heavy polishing. You will need more coats in a light but heavy enough not to run and sufficient flash time in between. High humidity can also cause blushing or fogging.
I didin't see if you scuffed the area with such as a scotch bright grey or the like. You may end up with flaking down the road once the laquer fully cures plus shrinks and moves in the sun hense thermo-elastic.

I do however hope this works out for you. I'm just throwing things out from past experience.


Sorry more answers on your sanding while i was writing posted.
 
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Concours.John said:
The only problem I see is you just sprayed laquer over urethane without sanding or scuffing the panel.
You can't do the opposite because laquer color/clear products are thermo elastic the result would be cracking later on hard surfaces (metal) There are some professional laquer products that do work but they are primer based. Laquer is nice for plastic in one sense that it moves with the expansion and contration. Enamels are catalized therefore requiring a flex additive to prevent shattering on impacts. If you have ever seen a plastic bumper that has been repainted then bumped with paint flaking off you know what I'm talking about.
There is also not enough clear in that can to provide sufficient film thickness due to atomization and amout of clear that actually hits the panel to do any sanding or heavy polishing. You will need more coats in a light but heavy enough not to run and sufficient flash time in between. High humidity can also cause blushing or fogging.
I didin't see if you scuffed the area with such as a scotch bright grey or the like. You may end up with flaking down the road once the laquer fully cures plus shrinks and moves in the sun hense thermo-elastic.

I do however hope this works out for you. I'm just throwing things out from past experience.


Sorry more answers on your sanding while i was writing posted.
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Thanks John - yeah I scuffed....and we'll see how long it looks good. I had a place on the hood where I pulled up the clear and was able to use this same can and get good results about a year ago. Still looks good. I realize the two key things here are getting a good bond and enuf clear on so it can be polished...the minute this part looks bad it's coming off and over to my body shop friend for a professional re-shot with Sikkens......
 
glen e said:
Thanks John - yeah I scuffed....and we'll see how long it looks good. I had a place on the hood where I pulled up the clear and was able to use this same can and get good results about a year ago. Still looks good. I realize the two key things here are getting a good bond and enuf clear on so it can be polished...the minute this part looks bad it's coming off and over to my body shop friend for a professional re-shot with Sikkens......
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Bobby beat me to to my questions. The one thing I always remember once you paint. It's just like corection but opposite. Too fast while buffing = not enough removal. Too fast while painting= not enough added. Too slow while buffing= too much removed. Too slow while painting= too much added. It's all a happy medium and prep is always key both ways.;)

Best of luck with this!
 
Concours.John said:
Bobby beat me to to my questions. The one thing I always remember once you paint. It's just like corection but opposite. Too fast while buffing = not enough removal. Too fast while painting= not enough added. Too slow while buffing= too much removed. Too slow while painting= too much added. It's all a happy medium and prep is always key both ways.;)

Best of luck with this!
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john/bobby - one final question - GG DA or Flex? or even my 3" GG DA?

Time is not important - I'm afraid the flex might burn right thru the clear based on what you were saying about rattle can clear - I now have 3 coats thin and 2 heavier coats on it...all still with no runs..
 
Everyone has given you great advice so far so go with what they have already said. As far as which machine to start with, use the one you are most comfortable with. UC with a GG and a orange pad will take out 2000 grit wet sanding scratches with no problem as long as you use a good quality sand paper there is a difference. You should also use a sanding block or sponge so that you don't get pressure points from your fingers you need flat even pressure. IMO your spoiler with this type of clear isn't the the time to experiment with your new machine. Also don't be so afraid of the Flex, it's not like it's some kind of paint animal that is going to just start eating the paint off. Hope it all works out for you.:)
 
glen e said:
john/bobby - one final question - GG DA or Flex?

Time is not important - I'm afraid the flex might burn right thru the clear based on what you were saying about rattle can clear - I now have 3 coats thin and 2 heavier coats on it...all still with no runs..
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I always use 3" pads on spoilers its easier to control near edges. I have a 3' air angle grinder with the 3 in pads. A RA will be much safer though. I would suggest the Griots 3 in da you will love it for tight spaces and bumpers. It s around $80. I would suggest a 3M scotch brite scuff plus wipe downs and more coats though first. You will have more to work with as far as clear. This can work since you prepped the peice you just need room to work with. Spray cans provide half the film build a true gun do.

This could be the perfect time if you have a compressor to practice with a real gun. Get the proper filters and you may get hooked. The key is always getting as good gun. Most paint suppliers will give you the proper mix and materials you need. Warning you'll want to paint everything in site once you spray with a good gun.
 
thanks so much guys..I'll let this sit for a few days and attack it mid week...

....I already own the 3" GG and have used it for years...love it...
 
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