Help with my first PTG readings

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the car

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It appears my ptg reads a little lower than the shims so i made this equation since i dont have my ptg on me today at work to try and recalibrate it or whatever.
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Problem is i have to set up a standard deviation equation too i suppose.

I think im making this harder than it is. Lol. Shocker.

The 4.xs and lower...is that safe to compound?
I get the idea of the thickness since i have the 4 shims but this is all new to me.

Advice please and thank you!

Plan to start cutting into it after work around 5.

Brandt K.
 
To me, 100um (~4 mil) is the safety line.
Is thia variance normal?
Top line is the provided shim & microns
Bottom is actual reading when placed against the provided metal coin

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I made an equation to compensate for this (presumed) variance.
 
I like to take a reading of the inside of the gas cap since it has so little film, to help me make an educated guess about how much CC i might have to work with.

Anything below 4.0 i'd just compound lightly and not as much as the rest. According to your drawings, looks like it's just the lower areas of the vehicle so that's better than having low readings on horizontal panels. Let the customer know about this, he'll appreciate you taking the time to take thickness readings and respecting the health of his CC, instead of just thinning the crap out of it and letting him deal with failure down the road wondering what happened.
 
That is why they provide the coins to calibrate the meter.

Mine was only off by a couple of um so didn't need to.
 
That is why they provide the coins to calibrate the meter.

Mine was only off by a couple of um so didn't need to.
I guess i missed the calibration part fully

But my math skill is solid ;)
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Std dev found. I think at least.lol

Perhaps i should try recalibration again when i get home
 
I like to take a reading of the inside of the gas cap since it has so little film, to help me make an educated guess about how much CC i might have to work with.

Anything below 4.0 i'd just compound lightly and not as much as the rest. According to your drawings, looks like it's just the lower areas of the vehicle so that's better than having low readings on horizontal panels. Let the customer know about this, he'll appreciate you taking the time to take thickness readings and respecting the health of his CC, instead of just thinning the crap out of it and letting him deal with failure down the road wondering what happened.

When placed on the bare metal coin, it should be at 0.00 , and use the provided films to test the accuracy as well. Excuse the blurry pics, i just took them quickly (one with the film and one with just the bare coin).

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sorry for the semi-double post, i had to edit and didn't realize the original remained posted.
 
I like to take a reading of the inside of the gas cap since it has so little film, to help me make an educated guess about how much CC i might have to work with.

Anything below 4.0 i'd just compound lightly and not as much as the rest. According to your drawings, looks like it's just the lower areas of the vehicle so that's better than having low readings on horizontal panels. Let the customer know about this, he'll appreciate you taking the time to take thickness readings and respecting the health of his CC, instead of just thinning the crap out of it and letting him deal with failure down the road wondering what happened.

When placed on the bare metal coin, it should be at 0.00 , and use the provided films to test the accuracy as well. Excuse the blurry pics, i just took them quickly (one with the film and one with just the bare coin).

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Thanks.i followed the instructions on the paper it came with.
The coin read 000
But shims on top of the coin did not read their true shim stated #..hence my unnecessary enjoyment with equations.
 
Wtf...i keep accidentally thanking my own posts..smart phone failure!

Seriously I'm not that narcissistic I swear.
 
ok if it's doing that, then it might need calibration using the film thickness as reference instead of setting it to "0.00" on bare coin, and even then it might come off calibration a couple of times before it stays "accurate" for good so keep taking readings until it stays pretty consistent. It's what i had to do the first night i had it and it's been good ever since.
 
ok if it's doing that, then it might need calibration using the film thickness as reference instead of setting it to "0.00" on bare coin, and even then it might come off calibration a couple of times before it stays "accurate" for good so keep taking readings until it stays pretty consistent. It's what i had to do the first night i had it and it's been good ever since.
Good heads up.

so assuming my factor ratio is accurate, which it is according to math, these readings should slightly go up (the lower ones)

Either way i think this thing just paid for itself in peace of mind on day 1 of use
 
so I will take caution on anything in the 4 range
im glad to find out the black has the thickest clear on it bc its gonna need the most work
 
Brandt !!!

Please change the reading to Microns ------
1 Mil = 25.4 Microns...

Microns is much more sensitive to change than Mils is because, remember 1 Mil = 25.4 Microns....

I only use mine in Microns and if I start to lose a little bit of 1 micron, I know I need to stop...

Its all about saving the paint and finding areas that had bodywork and repaint, which will always be much higher...

P.S. - Besides, its much easier to not have to do the math in your head converting Mils to Microns, no ???

Dan F
 
Brandt !!!

Please change the reading to Microns ------
1 Mil = 25.4 Microns...

Microns is much more sensitive to change than Mils is because, remember 1 Mil = 25.4 Microns....

I only use mine in Microns and if I start to lose a little bit of 1 micron, I know I need to stop...

Its all about saving the paint and finding areas that had bodywork and repaint, which will always be much higher...

P.S. - Besides, its much easier to not have to do the math in your head converting Mils to Microns, no ???

Dan F

Dan I am actually reading the thread
http://www.autopia.org/forums/car-d...owng-clearcoat-removed-machine-polishing.html
and took note of the same msg from you on there as well..guess I will just do some math on the readings and adjust


totally agree MICRONs it is.. yes 25 multipled by any number actually has a mathematical trick to it (yea im a nerd I went to college on a Number Sense UIL scholarship- haha)

thanks
 
Brandt -
Im really so glad you Are a math nerd - we all need one !!! :)
What a great help you have been and will always be to us !!!
I am so grateful for your talent with numbers !

Ok, you are set !!!
You have the equipment -
You have the attitude -
You have the skillset -

Its a beautiful car - you are going to Kill It !!! :)
Dan F
 
Brandt -
Im really so glad you Are a math nerd - we all need one !!! :)
What a great help you have been and will always be to us !!!
I am so grateful for your talent with numbers !

Ok, you are set !!!
You have the equipment -
You have the attitude -
You have the skillset -

Its a beautiful car - you are going to Kill It !!! :)
Dan F

thanks for the kind words Dan but most of my math knowledge is not super useful in the real world unfortunately

im eager to get out of this office and into my other office (garage)...need to pick up some halogen bulbs and going to try out one of those 3000 lumens LED lights until I can get everything properly ordered to make my own swirl finder light like in the thread Zach M started.

my brinkman decided to die on me and it cant be fixed...bad timing I suppose
 
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